TodFitch

I think fog lights should be smaller than the regular headlights. Not just a little smaller but enough smaller that it is apparent on first glance. The headlights on your '39 are a bit larger than 7" sealed beams but I don't think quite large enough that the ratio looks right to me to use the 8" Trippe Lite Seniors.

Your neighbor has a cousin in the mountains where we have a cabin. The visit that cousin made cost me about $1500 in repairs last fall. Believe it or not, there are people in that area that feed them. Sure makes it worse for the rest of us.

On the top of the forum web page is a blue band with links to various sections, one says "classifieds". But here is the link if your screen looks different: https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/

Reminder: Requests for parts must be in the classified section. Negotiations for parts should be by PM.

My profile shows me joining this forum in 2006. But I am pretty sure that I was on the forum earlier and that a change in software used dropped some of that type of information. I started my Plymouth vanity website in 1999 and I am pretty sure the original forum started around that same time and that I found it and joined around 2000. GTK will have a better handle on the generations of software used by this forum and if things were lost when the original forum software was retired. edit: Just looked at my profile on the AACA forum and it shows I joined that in January 2000. I believe I joined this forum around that same time.

I too joined this forum before FB existed. I was working in embedded software in Silicon Valley when FB started and it was really apparent to me that, especially in regards to FB, that "if you are not the customer then you are the product". I have never joined FB, I never will. If someone posts a link to an item at FB I do not follow it. And I take active measures to block FB from tracking me around the web.

I see the smiley so maybe this is a joke. . . But assuming it isn’t, the TrippLite company made accessory driving lights back in the day. The high end lights, very much in demand nowadays, are the senior line of lights. Side story: Back in the 1990s I was researching some uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) for work and one of the potential models was made by TrippLite but I had a question I could not answer from their literature so I called the company. The one of the first questions I was asked was how I'd heard about their company/product. I said that I once had a set of TrippLites on my antique car. The sales person had never heard that the company once made those. For what it is worth, they are still in business making power equipment for computer centers.

Gentle reminder: Any offer or request for parts should be done via PM or in the classified ad section.

The Operators Manual (i.e. owner's manual) for my 1933 PD has a recipe for making brake fluid. They warn to only to use the home made stuff in an emergency and then get the system flushed and refilled with approved Chrysler brake fluid as soon as possible as there will be acids that will damage the brake system over time. Remember that back in 1933 most cars still had mechanical brakes and so the supply stores in smaller or rural locations might not stock brake fluid so if you were out in the middle of nowhere and needed brake fluid you could make some from things available from the local pharmacy. I don't know about modern automotive paint that uses hardeners, but for old fashioned nitrocellulose, nitrocellulose, alkyd, and acrylic paints DOT 3 brake fluid is a very quick and effective paint remover.

Silicon brake fluid can easily get bubbles in it if not handled properly. Simply being rough when pouring can get small bubbles into it. Once in, they are very hard to get out. That might be an issue for you. Another that can result in very poor braking is if the shoes haven’t been arced to fit the drums. This will result in only a small portion of each shoe making contact with the drum so you will have little braking regardless of the pedal pressure. Any way, if you are going to change type of brake fluid, you will need to get all the old out. To do that you will need to disassemble everything. Some recommend using alcohol to flush the system but I have read that the alcohol can damage things. In my case I also replaced all the hoses and tubing. You may get by with blowing them out with compressed air. If I were you, I would verify that the shoes are arced properly and get a pressure bleeding tool and rebleed using DOT5 being very careful to avoid getting tiny air bubbles in the fluid.

Regarding the dash, not sure about 1939 but in the early 1930s wood grained was on the deluxe models while the standard or business models had paint. In 1933 the standard (PCXX) the paint was black. It is my understanding that the convertibles always had paint.

It is my understanding in that era they painted the whole power plant assembly (engine, bell housing, flywheel cover & transmission) as a single assembly so they should all be the same color.

I assume you are looking for the “Brake Flexible Hose Gasket”, part type code 5-62-07. Which for your truck is likely to be Chrysler part 1123332 which should be available in your local auto supply store. Follow the links to get part numbers they can cross to their system. Thinking about it, there is a reasonable chance that a brake and friction supply that was able to reline your shoes will also carry that type of part.

For the Plymouths old enough to have used Delco-Remy, the Chrysler part number is 41928. Apparently the later P15s also used that number. Other than the really late P15 listing, later AutoLite distributors used Chrysler part 640715. I don't have a cross for the 1261004 or 640715 numbers but that early 41928 part number is in the lookup at Vintage Power Wagons and they are selling an O-ring (rather than cork gasket): https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-distributor-to-engine-block-rubber-gasket-o-ring-cc41928-n