TodFitch

670647 does not show up in the index of parts for in my 1936-48 Plymouth parts book. I sure would like to see a scan of the page(s) of your Dodge parts book(s) you have found this in. Thanks!

Try searching for it without the dash (6601418), it will come up. Sorry about posting a link that included a session indication that expired.

That 1-48-854 sounds like a "parts type code" rather than a part number. And starting with a 1, it sounds like a reasonable parts type code from how I imagine Chrysler set up their number schemes. However my parts book does not have that, could you send me a scan of that page? Many thanks!

At least I can't find it in the 1936-48 Plymouth parts book. I wanted to properly cross reference the heater shut off valve commonly used in our old cars. On the main page GTK has a NAPA 660-1418 listed as "similar to original". http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(qihfluekvnvlgg45weaijqno))/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6601418_0229645773 Looking around on NAPA, there is another one that I have seen often: http://www.napaonline.com//MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=6601401&Description=Heater+Valve So I thought I'd find a part number and illustration in the parts book to see which, if either, more closely matched something shipped or sold by Chrysler. In the 1928-33 book heaters are in Group 1 "Accessories" but there are no pictures to show what the "Lower hose connection and shut off valve" (part 615824) might have looked like. However I don't see any appropriate entries in the 1936-48 book. In fact, I can find nothing about heater parts at all. Does anyone have a listing for heater parts, preferably with illustrations?

I posted the letter with all the information I have. So I can't speak for things like price and shipping. I would suggest that you contact the seller (who is not on this board) directly by the listed email address.

Received the following letter that might be of interest to some members on this forum: I am wondering if this is actually an overdrive transmission rather than an automatic transmission... But in any case I bet someone on this forum can help it find a good home.

"Rat rod" also seems to be a tag on eBay for any part that a hot-rodder doesn't want. But might, with the "rat rod" in the title draw a little more money selling it to someone who hasn't got a clue. Like, for example: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1934-Plymouth-w-s-wiper-motors-rat-rod_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem110349417300QQitemZ110349417300QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1059

I was under the impression that in 1948 Plymouth used a two wire sender. So I would have expected the 1948 Dodge to also have a two wire sender. If so, then none of the single wire senders JC Whitney has will be able to be modified to work. I hope someone more familiar with Dodge and with 1948 Mopar vehicles than I pipes in.

Golden State Region has a place on its web site where you can list tools you are willing to loan. So far only Bob Amos and I have listed things. But I have loaned out some tools based on these listings.

Doing a search on iTunes for "We're gonna move" turns up that song. Most of the recordings on the search are by Elvis Presley but there are a couple of other artists that whose recordings are available for it too. The first Elvis recording on the list for it shows the album as "The King of Rock 'N' Roll - The Complete 50's Masters (box set)" but it is also from other albums like "Elvis Presley Portrait" and "Don't Be Cruel".

Didn't seem to confuse me. But then I've actually been to Bendigo a few times so maybe some of the Aussie lingo rubbed off on me.

IIRC the serial number plate on my 1933 is held on with rivets. The thing is almost illegible at present due to body color paint that covers it. So it has already been "defaced" to a certain extent. And while the letter of the law might imply I should not further modify it, it would seem that removing the paint paint that obscures the numbers would be "restoration" rather than "defacement" or "modification". However removing the body color paint layers will almost certainly remove the original black text that said "Serial Number". For that reason the recent posting on water decals has raised my curiosity. I suppose it would be possible to remove the paint and apply a decal with the tag affixed to the door hinge post. That would keep me from violating any rules about removing it. It would, however, make the job more difficult.

Thanks for the info. TF

http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-C

Where did you get your "re-pop" one?

Are you sure that is not the body number on the firewall? For 1930-42 Plymouths the serial number should be on the front passenger (right) side door hinge post. And, by the way, my 1933 serial number plate has, barely visible through several layers of paint, the outline of text that says "Serial Number". The general form and style look the same as on later cars. Since the text is visible I figure that it is slightly raised from the base metal on the plate. The numbers themselves are stamped into the metal tag.

I've had warped drums cause pulsing in the brakes. Should only happen if the brakes got really hot or the drums were turned too much. So, as mentioned in an earlier response, check to see if the shoes were dragging as that might cause the drums to get very hot. But the only solution to a warped drum that I know of is to turn it (if there is enough material) or replace it. You should pull the drums and have them checked for roundness, contamination or glazed areas.

It is also helpful for the hundreds of others who got the coffee cans full of unidentifiable parts from the previous owner and did not have a chance to photograph them in situ.

Serial number (on the front driver side door post) will tell you, by the number range it is in, if the car came from the factory as a Deluxe or Special Deluxe. I have serial numbers posted at: http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin and I think the numbers for P15 are posted on the main part of this site too.

My current house, built in 1958, has modern 1.5x3.5 "2x4" studs. My parents had a house in Tucson that was completed in, I think, 1941 which had "full dimension" lumber. I'd guess that the post-WW2 tract house boom was when the modern sized framing came into use.

A filter designed for by-pass use should simple clog up and stop passing oil. That makes it a fail-safe design. For a full-flow setup that would starve the engine of lubricant. So a by-pass valve is required. But how good a throwaway by-pass valve can they make for $3? They can leak, meaning you have no filtering. Or they can stick closed meaning that your engine can be starved of lubrication. The failure they are designed for is when the media becomes clogged, then the valve opens to let oil to the bearings. But that oil is going to have a bunch of the crud that was clogging the filter. You don't want to have that happen, so you must be cautious. And that means replacing the filter at every oil change. The bypass system simply stops passing oil from the pressure gallery to the oil pan if the filter becomes clogged. Not a real big deal. So you can run the filter until it becomes clogged. And that can be many oil changes. And since you don't want a huge flow of oil through the bypass, you can have a finer filter media. End result, with the proper selection of filter, you can get finer particles out of the oil than a full flow filter ever could. So, I think installing a filter designed for full flow in a bypass application gives you the worst of both worlds. That was the reason I was wondering if the Amsoil (or equivalent) spin-on bypass filter could be used on the adaptor shown. That gives you the best of the bypass design but with the ease of change of the modern style filters.

Your filter is rated at 7-9 GPM and 19 microns according to the WIX site. Not sure that would work on my 1933 as I don't have anything to restrict flow when the pressure drops too low like the late 1933 and up engines have. I'd probably have zero pressure at idle. Clean up can be a mess with the replaceable cartridge type filters. And the disposable canisters are a specialty item now that costs $45 from places like Bernbaum and Roberts. So I can see where you might not want to keep the original. But I don't see how a full flow filter will be that much better than the by pass type on a collector car. And the short block has no factory provision for it, so you will have to be creative. On the other hand, if you can use a spin-on bypass filter on that adaptor. That would be a great filter for you engine. Any one know if this filter rated down to 2 microns would work on that adaptor: https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eabp.aspx