TodFitch

I haven't done a 1940s one, but I used a bench vise as a press when replacing the king pin bushings on my 1933. And there was a recent post over on the AACA discussion forum about removing old king pin bushings using a long bolt or threaded rod and some washers of a suitable diameter. Basically you use the washers to pull the bushing out as you tighten the nut on the bolt. If you have access to a shop press you are ahead of many of us on tooling.

But that would imply that I would need to keep track of all the money I spent on the old car and it associated parts. And I really don't want to know that in too much detail. And nearly all the parts I have ever let go have been in trade or gifts to others who needed them more than I. So no income to call it a business. I guess it is going to stay a hobby for me rather than a business.

Not much in it that would fail suddenly. Generally the wear would be gradual and result in lower oil pressure especially when using low viscosity oil in a hot engine.

Interesting. My 1933 has non-removable pedals too and I could not figure out how to get the pad over the pedal or even over the shaft end with out tearing them. So I sliced them with a shop knife, put them around the shaft and used contact cement to glue them back together. That was a number of years ago and now the draft seals are falling apart so it is time for new ones. From what I hear on this thread I guess it is possible to work new draft pads over the pedals if warmed up and properly lubricated. I would not have thought that possible but who am I to argue with the success others have had solving the same problem.

So a 10.8 second time is counted as "10 second" rather than 11 seconds which is the correct rounding for 10.8 under any math scheme I am familiar with? Sounds like a bit of advertising promotion there. On the other hand, that is faster than any car that I currently have so I shouldn't quibble too much.

Thinking about your working procedures, yesterday I attempted to follow your rule of cleaning everything as you go. I actually kept my hands clean! Of course the disposable vinyl gloves helped too.

There are metal screws between the tank and the sending unit. Also, at least on the last gasket I got, the rubber seemed to have metal fibers in it which might have made it electrically conductive.

Not just with cash. Most check out lines are equipped with ATM/credit card readers that allow you to swipe your card and enter your PIN as soon as the clerk starts the transaction. My wife and I "tag team" at the grocery store: She pre-enters the ATM and PIN, I bag the groceries (no baggers in local stores any more so the clerk is supposed to do both). Only a second or two after the last item is scanned we are paid, packed and out of there. But there is always someone in line ahead of us who waits until the clerk finishes then finally opens their purse and starts to look for a card (or cash) looking like they were not expecting to have to pay. At the very least they could have either their card or their cash ready. Its not like they shouldn't know the general procedure, its the same in almost all stores.

I was going to suggest a wheel/drum puller. But then I see your photo is for a front wheel. So here goes for the front (rear is different): 1. Remove the dust cover (the stamped sheet metal thing about 1.5 inches in diameter. I use a screw driver working around the edge to walk it loose. 2. Remove cotter pin, castle nut and washer with the inside tab thingy (a technical term). 3. Grab drum and rock it back and forth to loosen the outside wheel bearing. 4. Remove outside wheel bearing roller assembly. 5. Pull off drum being careful not to damage inside seal on the any sharp edges. I suppose you will next want instructions on putting it back on: Only trick there is to tighten the nut until the bearings are dragging slightly then back off to the next place on the castle nut where you can install the NEW cotter pin. As I said, rear are different. So when you are ready for that post again.

That is my take too. From the 1933 Plymouth Owner's Manual. From back in the day when most cars had mechanical brakes so it could be hard to find brake fluid: I am not a chemist and Google has failed me this time, so I can't say if mixing caster oil and denatured alcohol would create a glycol of some sort. And, of course, today's brake DOT3 could well have an entirely different formulation than the stuff made in the 1930s.

At least for most of the 1930s the original engine number was stamped on the frame (driver side above/near the rear wheel kick up). If the practice continued after the war then you could confirm the engine number on the paperwork with the number stamped on the frame.

Just some things from the top of my head... Worth everything you are paying for them. I think if I were having this problem, I'd temporarily hook up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge so that I could see them as I drove, then take the car out and run it at speed to verify that both are okay. You did not mention fuel line from the tank or the ceramic filter in the tank, so it could be fuel starvation (fuel pressure reading will tell you that). I'd have to check the manual, but I recall that points and/or plugs set at the wrong gap can also cause high speed issues. On your newer cars with both vacuum and mechanical advance the plate the points mount on rotates. It is possible that the ground for that plate is not good through its entire range of motion causing the ignition to cut out.

Chandler is in the Phoenix metro area. I think US 60 went through there and US 80 might have too. US 66 cut across the northern part of the state, perhaps 150 miles away at the near point (Flagstaff).

I work in a Windows shop that makes Linux based products and I will have to say that I have had much better luck burning CDs and DVDs that will load on all machines (Windows and Linux) using my MacBook than many others have had trying to burn the same software using their Windows machines. My guess is that had the CD/DVD been burnt on a Mac there would have been fewer problems with others reading it.

I just tried again and the video now works for me. Some sort of YouTube weirdness I guess. Looks like a fun event. If I still lived in the LA metro area it would be on the list of things to do.

I have found that the double layer DVDs burned on my computer do not play on our DVD player. Single layer formats (+ and -) both seem to work okay though.

Sounds fun, but I get a "We're sorry, this video is no longer available" message.

Apparently the concept is working in Germany: http://www.spiegel.de/international/business/0,1518,610076,00.html Start your comments.

Looks like the "Little Burger" at Five Guys has more calories than the regular burger at In-n-Out. Their regular burger has slightly more calories than the In-n-Out "Double-Double": http://net.fiveguys.com/files/files/NutritionalInfo_Oct2008.pdf http://www.in-n-out.com/pdf/nutrition_2008.pdf Since this thread started out about Sonic, might as well toss that in too. Sonic's burger is on par, calorie wise, with the Five Guys. Have to go to the Jr. to get the size of the In-n-Out burger: http://www.sonicdrivein.com/pdfs/menu/SonicNutritionGuide.pdf

Apparently they have only one plant for making the beef paddies and they refuse to freeze the meat. So all the outlets are within the limited distance from Los Angeles that they can ship the meat and still have it fresh. No problem on shipping the fries: They make those from scratch at every outlet. For a fast food joint, In-n-Out is up there for quality. Certainly far better than McDonalds or Burger King and their like. And there is an In-n-Out pretty close to my home. However Clarke's Burger in Mountain View or Kirk's down in Saratoga, while both more expensive than In-n-Out, have better burgers.

There is also a "heavy duty" version that takes a different element, one that looks like a roll of twine. Seems like they call it a "sock filter" That filter element is also available, WIX 51011. But it seems most were fitted with one of the many filter kits that use the NAPA 1080 or equivalent.

It might actually work. Most portable devices actually run on less than 5v so the adaptor/cord usually has a voltage reduction device built into it. And I would not be surprised if many of them are protected against the wrong polarity. The question is if that reduction device can work with 6v positive ground. And I would not be surprised if some, but probably not all or even most, of them can. Maybe someone should start a page with results people post on using portable electronic devices designed for 12v negative ground on a 6v positive ground system. Were it me, I'd hide a 6v positive to 12v negative converter somewhere and run the cigar lighter (12v convenience plug) from it. You can get that type of converter through a number of old car suppliers. In my case, the car has no lighter nor a place to mount one. But I have considered getting a converter and putting it in a box with a 12v lighter receptacle with a cable and connector on it. I'd hook that up to a matching connector under the dash and use it for keeping the cell phone charged on longer trips. And it could be simply unplugged and removed when ever desired.

We have a "business class" Internet service because it allows me to have a permanent IP address and the "terms of service" allow me to run mail and web servers. However there is a price to pay for this and it is substantially more expensive than the "residential" service from the same provider. But the customer support actually works, so I figure that is what I am really paying for. I get somebody who can actually look at the line with their instruments while I am on the phone, determine where the problem is and, if necessary, send some one out to work on the "outside plant". I recall with great distaste the "customer service" I got when I was attempting to use a residential class account: The first two or so layers of "support" basically knew nothing more than to power cycle the modem and reboot your computer. And if you mentioned you were not using a windows machine you were totally shut out as some other mythical group was supposed to handle those weird non-windows machines but somehow the telephone transfer to that mythical group never worked. Woe be unto you if you actually mentioned that you logged into their modem and told them that what the reported signal to noise numbers were, that the uplink direction was below specification, etc. With the business class service my experience, on the few times I have needed help, has been very good. I think that in this case, you get what you pay for.

Do you have a digital camera? May be a reasonably high resolution photo of the pages would be legible enough...