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TodFitch

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TodFitch last won the day on December 14 2015

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About TodFitch

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Website URL
    http://www.ply33.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Spanish Village by the Sea
  • My Project Cars
    1933 Plymouth

Converted

  • Location
    Southern California
  • Interests
    various
  1. Self parking car

    I guess these things have been available on higher end cars for a while now but they seem to be working their way down to the lower cost models. My "new car", a 2004 model was totalled last month (other party accepted full responsibility) so I purchased a new Toyota. It's radar adaptive cruise control works like you describe for the Volvo. Toyota's "lane departure alert" is a bit different though: It won't keep you centered in the lane (they expect you to always be steering the car) but it will give you audio and tactile feedback if you wander too much or leave the lane. I haven't attempted to test the automatic braking and hope it will never actually be needed while I am in the car. I have to say the first time I tried the adaptive cruise control in traffic was a bit scary. But it actually does make getting through the Southern California freeway system less fatiguing. Won't get where you want to go any faster but I seem to be less wound up and on edge when I get to my destination.
  2. Wix 51080 in 218 Flathead 6

    Based on your post and photo that seems to be false.
  3. Wix 51080 in 218 Flathead 6

    My notes show the sock type filter element to be a WIX51011. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-C
  4. Question on freeze plugs?

    Concur that JB Weld is not a good idea. Just use Permatex or equivalent.
  5. OT, but a truck backed into my "new" 04 car the other week and totaled it (dash cam video available upon request). Splurged and got a new car (same make, etc.) and there is a world of difference even in the last 14 years between cars. Not sure about the basic functionality, getting from place to place, etc. But the electronics are hugely different. Have to say though, that when I get in my old Plymouth everything feels familiar and functional even though the technology is from a different century.
  6. Is the H.A.M.B. down?

    Daily backups on most stuff was standard procedure for most of the companies I worked at. On the database driven websites I run, I also do daily backups at about 2AM local time. Once a week I apply those backups to a test machine to verify nothing has gone weird/broken in the backup/restore process.
  7. 19.5 wheels on cars?

    Could well be. From the period information I've read the larger diameter wheels were generally marketed to southern states due to the generally poorer quality (deeply rutted) roads compared to the rest of the country.
  8. California Assembly Plants: Where, What & When?

    Sorry. . . I did enter the look up serial/VIN data for all Chrysler built cars into the 1960s but my parts books and focus has been on Plymouth. The parts area may still be of assistance to you as long as you can find the original part number. Many parts were common between Plymouth and Dodge and you may find a modern cross reference or vendor if you have a part number.
  9. California Assembly Plants: Where, What & When?

    From my Serial/VIN lookup/decoder: Serial Number 45044030 Found in range 45022453 to 45045426 Serial 21578 of 22974 Year 1948 Make Dodge Model Name DeLuxe or Custom Model Code D24 Plant Los Angeles Engine 6 cylinder 230.2 cu. in. L-head Wheelbase 119 1/2 inches
  10. Is Craftsman comming back?

    Back in my youth I worked for a while on the factory floor of an aerospace firm. I remember there was an assembly where the design engineer had not left enough room for a socket to get on a bolt head in a recess of a casting. And being in a recess, only a socket could be used. The manufacturing "fix" was to take a normal socket and grind the outside down enough to fit into the recess. It turned out that the only brand socket they could do that with was Snap On. It was the only one with good enough steel that you could grind away most of the material and still be strong enough to get the nut properly torqued. All the other brand sockets would break on first use after being abused like that. Fortunately there was a Snap On warehouse not too far away too. Not sure what the relative quality is of the high end tools are today, but back then Snap On was definitely top of the heap.
  11. Is Craftsman comming back?

    I am old enough to remember when "made in Japan" was synonymous with "junk". And there was lots of it, wind up toys, transistor radios, etc. Later, when things like when well built cars, cameras with good lenses, etc. started arriving from Japan that changed. Around the time the impression of Japanese quality was changing I heard that the Japanese had been building quality stuff for themselves for quite a while but was building poor quality stuff for export to the US because that seemed to be what the US market wanted. Don't know if that was true or not, but it certainly seems to be true that a lot of stuff is sold in this country is sold on price alone and, as a whole, we seem to be willing to go with lower quality if we can save a penny on the initial outlay. It may be more expensive in the long run as good quality generally outlasts poor quality, but we seem to be suckers for a low initial price.
  12. Gasket v. Gasket Maker

    You can also buy sheets of gasket material and cut your own gasket.
  13. Flathead 6 for 1933 Dodge to drive Peking to Paris

    I don't know how much this event is like a race or rally, that is how much performance you really need from the engine/transmission/rear axle ratios, etc. But it seems that reliability might be a more important aspect than outright speed or acceleration. It is my understanding that the '33 Dodge and '33 Plymouth are very similar mechanically. Really on differing in having a higher displacement version of the engine. The '33 through '41 engines share the same basic set of bearings, pistons, etc. While the '35 and up engines have some more refinement in the cooling system any of them, properly rebuilt, should be able to manage the trip. Later engines will have more power but not necessarily more readily available internal parts. If using the original ball and trunnion equipped driveshaft, I'd trust good leather boots more than rubber ones. Though I've heard there is now a supplier of newly manufactured rubber boots for at least the 1950s version and if those are available then rubber may be okay. If the boots go bad the u-joints can wear quite rapidly. Even if keeping the original transmission and rear end it might be safer to have a modern driveshaft made up. Not sure if the '33 Dodge used a B&B carburetor. But if it did, the original '33 version of that is a weak link too. A later carb would be on my "must list" if I were a long way from a good parts supplier. If keeping the stock, or something close to stock, on the suspension you will find the drag link on the '33 Plymouth and '33 Dodge to be a bit marginal. Rare Parts in Stockton, California makes a replacement that has quite a bit more beef than the original thin walled tubing design. The steering box on the Plymouth, and also I believe on the Dodge, is a worm and sector. No worm and rollers in it. I've not had troubles with mine. Once adjusted it seems to stay pretty well adjusted. Loose ball joints and dangerously worn drag link were the main culprits in the steering system of my car. The "Silent-U" spring shackles can wear out quite rapidly if not kept properly lubricated. Start with them newly refurbished and keep them greased and they should be okay. If the Dodge is fitted with 17" wheels, I'd seriously consider getting some 16" replacements: There are limited tire choices for the 17" rim and my experience has been that current production from collector car tire manufacturers have horrible durability. Your choice in tires is much larger for the 16" wheels and you may have better luck getting durable tires. Replacing tires in the middle of your trip is not something I'd be wanting to plan on.
  14. temp. gauge repaired

    Maybe I ought to update the photos on the very similar procedure I've used. My write up has not changed substantially since October 2004. Here is a version of it from 13 years ago before I changed the way the navigation works on my site: https://web.archive.org/web/20041015175048/http://www.ply33.com:80/Repair/tempgauge
  15. Dim headlights

    I agree with Plymouthy Adams here. You should have at least 6v at the headlamps. At 3.75 your lights will be very, very dim and swapping out to quartz-halogen will not fix the issue. The quartz-halogen will try to draw the same power as your existing incandescent and you will still have a 6v lamp trying to do its job on less than 4v. The filament resistance of an incandescent or quartz-halogen bulb varies with temperature. As it gets hotter (brighter/whiter) the resistance goes up. But if we simplify things and assume filament resistance is constant, then with power = voltage squared divided by resistance we can compare the power your lights are putting out compared to what they should be: P at 6v = 6*6/R P at 4v = 4*4/R Ratio 4v/6v = 4*4/6*6 = 16/36 = 0.44 = 44% So you are losing around half your lighting. A quartz-halogen bulb typically puts out about 40% more light for the same wattage, so just swapping those in will still leave you with less light than you would have with a good electrical system and the stock bulbs. To do a voltage drop test, put one end of your voltmeter on a good ground then with the other lead check the voltage at various places in the circuit until you isolate the area(s) that show any measurable drop. You may also find some considerable heat generation at those places. If you have the original wiring and switches there will probably be a lot of places that need attention. You may also find resistance on the ground return too especially if you have new paint or old rust. If you don't feel like rewiring the entire car and refurbishing/replacing the switches, etc. then the other suggestion of running new wires to relays located close to the lights and running the relays off the existing circuitry could be easier.
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