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TodFitch last won the day on July 5

TodFitch had the most liked content!

About TodFitch

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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    Spanish Village by the Sea
  • My Project Cars
    1933 Plymouth


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    Southern California
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  1. You are perilously close violating the ban on trading parts on the open forum. Remember, any such activity needs to be done through the classified ads section or via PM.
  2. Nice write up! Thanks for posting. I still have a number of the old disposable bypass filters to use up before I need to look for alternatives, your setup looks pretty good to me.
  3. I suppose a photo of an auto club service truck bringing gasoline to a motorist back in the early 1900s would have made the meme "the future is stupid" for someone used to simply having their horse graze on the side of the road where ever they stopped. My plug-in hybrid gets about 4.6 miles/kWh in EV mode. Charging it at home during "super off peak" hours costs me $0.09/kWh so my EV mile driving costs about $0.02/mi. Local regular gas currently costs about $3.70/gal so I'd have to have a car that gets about 185 MPG to be as economical. Your numbers may be different (different miles/kWh, electrical cost and gasoline cost) but generally the out of pocket costs for an EV are quite a bit less than for a gas powered car. Only two issues are: 1) Higher cost of acquisition which is coming down pretty rapidly. And 2) limited range and/or slow charging which is also improving rapidly. If you are a "two car" family where one car is used for local trips then the second point is not very worrying for your "city car". Since I have a plug-in hybrid the limited range and/or slow charging is irrelevant too. A "car person" who is fixated on feel, sounds, and smells of a gas engine may not find an EV to their liking. But if you simply want something to economically get you to work, to the store, get kids to school, etc. an EV can be attractive even today. And it will be more so as more manufacturers get into the market and the technology matures. And yeah, if you accidentally run out of juice it would be nice to be able to call the auto club to get a quick minimal charge to get you either home or to a charging station.
  4. Breaker bar. The nut is supposed to be tightened to “at least” 142 ft-lbs so it is, or should be, pretty tight. I'm trying to remember if my 1/2" impact wrench was sufficient to get the nut off the last time I had to get into the rear brakes. . . I do remember having to get the breaker bar out but that might have been for something else.
  5. In the early 1930s oil filters were standard on Plymouths. By the mid to late 1930s the lower end (business, Road King, etc.) models had dropped them, my guess being for production cost reasons. Implying they were always an accessory prior to 1954 is wrong. Periodic maintenance in the 1930s included dropping and cleaning the pan. For example the DeLuxe Plymouth Six Instruction Book for 1933 says The point being that sludge in the engine is bad regardless of the type of oil. It can come loose at any time and clog the bearings, etc. The solution is to remove the sludge from the engine, not to avoid oil with detergent additives. Those additives, by the way, are not sufficient to loosen old sludge. They are designed simply to keep new sludge from forming. The old sludge may loosen any time the engine is being run simply by the flow of oil though the ares where the sludge exists.
  6. Concur with keithb7 that if you have the stock axle you'll need a good drum puller. Any other method to attempt to remove the drums will likely end in damage to either you or the drums. I've seen some say they use a 1/2" impact wrench on the axle nut to remove it but I guess my 1/2" impact wrench is not as robust as theirs. I usually end up using a breaker bar. The nut is supposed to be torqued to at least 142 ft-lbs so it can take a bit of force to loosen it. I think it is good practice to replace the axle nut on the axle after removing the washer, just flush with the end of the axle. The nut will retain the drum from flying across the room doing untold damage if it suddenly release from the axle. And it will prevent the puller from damaging the threads on the end of the axle. Last time I had to get into the rear drums I took some photos of the process to remove the drum, you can see them at https://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/
  7. See: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group8#8-58-60 Specifically for a 1948, see: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group8#920355
  8. You can't. And any way you adjust them you'll have poor braking performance. You need to have the shoes arced to match the drums. In the old days all brake shops and many general auto mechanics had brake shoe arcing machines but that day has long since passed. You might find a brake shop that can still to it or you might find a hobbyist that has an old machine they picked up with the said shops were getting rid of the equipment. But likely not. I got some sticky back sand paper that came in a long roll at my local hardware store. I put a strip inside my brake drums and then rubbed the shoes against it by hand until there was a good match between the radius/diameter of the shoes and the drum. It actually went pretty quickly as the sand paper cut pretty fast. Each drum on my car has been turned a different amount so this means that the shoes are no longer interchangeable, they must be used with the drum they were fitted to. Once I did that I was able to properly adjust the shoes and the braking was far better than before they were "arced".
  9. In the late '30s (and I think maybe even into the P15 era), the lower trim level Plymouths came from the factory with those ports plugged. If you wanted a filter on those cars you removed the plugs and plumbed in the filter. So basically you'd be running a factory configuration if you plugged both.
  10. No, the pressure relief valve has too functions: First and for most it relieves any over pressure by dumping oil directly into the pan if needed. As a secondary function, it shuts off flow of oil from the bypass filter back into the pan if the oil pressure drops too low. In the case of your picture, if you aren't going to have a filter there then it would be far better to plug the opening into the oil gallery and into the pressure relief valve rather than piping a shunt between the two.
  11. I've always just looked up the nearest "brake and friction" company in/near the city I lived in at the time and had my old shoes relined.
  12. I just measure the thickness of the old gasket(s) in an area, usually around a bolt hole or edge, and then buy paper gasket material near that thickness at my local auto supply. Might be a good idea to keep all your rear axle related posts in one thread. . .
  13. To the best of my knowledge, the '33 Dodge shares these parts with the '33 Plymouth though you should check the original part numbers to verify that. There are two seals on each side: A thick felt washer type inner seal that is supposed to keep the oil from the diff and the grease on the bearings separate. To the best of my knowledge this is no longer available. There is an outer grease seal assembly that is only available in old stock (if you can find it). However you can have a modern seal installed in the old carrier, see https://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/ The pinion seal is still available from places like NAPA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS17675 You might need to install a speedi-sleeve on the pinion flange shaft but you won't know that until you pull things apart and see what the condition is. You can replace the outer axle seals and the drive pinion seal without fully disassembling the rear end. To replace the inner axle seals you will need to pull the axles. The only way I figured out how to measure and check the differential involved pulling it out of the axle housing but maybe others have figured out how to do that. For what it is worth, the wear pattern on my differential looked good and the backlash was still within factory tolerances so I left it alone. I did replace the axle bearings at that time as long as the axle shafts were out.
  14. https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
  15. My general impression is that Mopar mechanicals had a pretty solid design from the mid-1930s on up. So to make the car a strong, reliable driver that you can take everywhere should just be a matter of putting the car back into good working order. Getting a factory service manual for the car is a good first step. I prefer to go over brakes and suspension components firsts as I really, really, really don't want a failure there while driving. The only concession to modern conditions that I think is required is to replace any rubber fuel system components (flex line, fuel pump diaphragm, etc.) with parts compatible with the additives in modern gasoline. If the car has been driven significant distances in the last 20 years that may have already been done. Some people will insist on changing to 12v. I find the 6v system on my old Plymouth works just fine though I did hide a 6v+ to 12v- converter under the dash and I use it to charge my cellphone, run a dash cam, etc. And some people believe that you need to change the brakes to disc. My feeling is that this is not necessary: The main issue with drum brakes is fade. Unless you are going to be racing/rallying the only place that might be an issue would be on long mountain downgrades. For that you can down shift and use engine braking to keep your speed under control.
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