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1952B3b23

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Everything posted by 1952B3b23

  1. When i removed the intake/exhaust manifold i had one of the threaded studs snap off in the block. I got lucky that all of the others actually came out. To take it out i wanted to try welding a washer and nut to the end and then turning it out. I was paranoid that i would catch the car on fire with my MIG welder so i removed the fuel pump and covered as much as i could with fiberglass blankets. I first tried welding just a nut onto the end of the stud with the MIG. This didn't work, the nut broke off For round two i decided to use my TIG welder. But for that i had to remove the passenger side fender so i could reach in and actually see what i was doing. This worked great. The tig allows you to get really good penetration and it heats up the stud a lot too. So while it was still hot i squirted a little penetrating oil on it and was able to remove it without a problem. Also, the TIG doesn't produce any flying sparks so i wasn't all nervous that i'd light something off. Having the fender off will help with routing the dual exhaust and fuel lines. It's a lot easier then slumping over the fender for hours! Thanks for looking, -Chris
  2. Tim Kingsbury sent me pictures of my completed intake and split exhaust. It looks awesome, can't wait to bolt it onto the car! You can also see George in a couple of the pics. -Chris
  3. Yea I saw that too. Is there a diagram showing which studs use the conical washer and nut? Or do they all use the same thing? Thanks. -Chris
  4. I looked on the Vintage Power Wagon site and they sell a kit with the nuts, washers, and studs for $60. It says it fits a 230 ci flathead. I wonder if that means it will also fit a 218? -Chris
  5. I wouldn't expect the nylon to hold up to all those heat cycles. The locknuts that I posted the link to do not have nylon in them. But thank you for the supplier. -Chris
  6. Nope i didn't know that. Someone had removed those from my engine at some point because the nuts i took off are all just regular hex nuts. If i cant find the proper arrangement i'll have to try some locking nuts with thicker flat washers. I quickly found these on McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=1655b9p Thanks for the heads up, and for the picture Don. -Chris
  7. Question: I need to replace the hardware (nuts and washers) that hold the exhaust/intake manifold onto the car. I was thinking about using brass nuts, any thoughts? -Chris
  8. Thats also a good option. I like the idea of the kit cause it seems like it has enough pieces so if i screw something up i can have a back up to try again.
  9. Thanks Casper. I saw those videos on your thread, great job. I may end up using the 2-1/4 kit from speedway.
  10. I was looking around online for a 2" universal exhaust kit but couldn't seem to find one. The smallest im seeing is 2-1/4". Where did you buy yours? -Chris
  11. So its been a little while since i've done anything to the Plymouth. But since i can't leave well enough alone, i decided to get my Nicson dual carb intake setup and exhaust manifold split by George Asche. I pulled the manifold off last sunday and mailed the stuff out on Monday. Only one of the studs broke off in the engine block, i consider that a success. What dual exhaust tubing size do you guys recommend? The engine is a basically stock 1953 218 thats been bored .030" over. -Chris
  12. George Asche's phone number is 814-354-2621. His business partner Tim Kingsbury is also on this forum. I haven't talked with George but i have talked to Tim and he is a very nice, and helpful guy. I just sent out my dual carb intake to them to get all set-up. -Chris
  13. I searched through the thread looking for which kit you bought to do the exhaust. Could you share the link, i couldn't find it. I need to build dual exhaust for my '39 Plymouth and i like what you've done.Thanks. -Chris
  14. Looks like you have a nice project! I have a '39 Plymouth coupe, with relatively stock independent front suspension. I rebuilt the entire thing, relocated the upper shock mount to the frame, and swapped the front coil springs to Ford Aerostar springs (Moog CC850). I also plan on putting on a different front sway bar, probably from a Jeep. I can honestly say that the stock rebuilt front suspension drives nice. I'm more than happy the way it drives and handles since all i do is cruise around town looking cool. Depending on your plans for the car, i'd recommend sticking with what is there. Now if you want to put a real hopped up V8 and go racing you'll likely need to do a front suspension swap. It's all a matter of what you're trying to get out of the old girl. -Chris
  15. I tried this once on my 1952 Dodge B3b speedo with two small flathead screw drivers for prying. This was recommended to me by someone who restores gauges. My technique must of been off because i ended up breaking the needle! So personally i wouldn't recommend the screw driver technique.
  16. Great job on the grille surround, should look very nice polished. -Chris
  17. So it looks like it isn't just me who has a real PIA time fitting the front sheet metal. I tried like hell but my hood still has a big gap on the front near the grille on my '39. I suspect these never really fit all that great from factory. -Chris
  18. Welcome to the forum. Nice truck and i like your plan for it. -Chris
  19. I would change the cap, its cheap insurance. Your old one may not look bad but replacing the cap and rotor isn't all that expensive. I believe changing them out was a part of routine tune ups back in the day. I'd also remove the distributor from the car and make a careful inspection of all the wires inside. You could have a bare wire touching something and causing you grief. While you're at it make sure the point gap is indeed .020". I swapped out my points a couple months ago and set the gap to .020". Soon after my car wouldn't start, no spark. I check the point gap and somehow it moved to .035"! It was a good lesson in making sure to double and triple check everything. Good Luck. -Chris
  20. Thank you Don. I've heard of people using WD40 to try and find the leak. I feel like the unlit propane torch would work better. -Chris
  21. Scroll up to post 205 in this thread and you will find photos of the business card for the people i used. It cost $79 including the shipping charge. -Chris
  22. I tried the dollar bill test and it passed, so that's good. After that I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged the port in the carb. Started the car up and listened for the exhaust pop, it did pop slightly but much less than when the advance is connected. I really had to listen closely to pick up on it. Seems like i have a vacuum leak, and it gets worse with the advance connected. -Chris
  23. That would be rather unfortunate since i just paid to have it rebuilt. I will also need to make sure that all my fittings are tight, im 95% sure they are. Nope, i've never heard of that. Can you please explain? Also, does it hurt the engine to disconnect the vacuum advance and run it like that? I know it's not fixing the problem but at least i could still drive around without having to hear the annoying pops at idle. The bottom line is that i still need to figure out whats going on. Thanks for the comments. -Chris
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