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1952B3b23

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Everything posted by 1952B3b23

  1. Ty-Rods Hot Rod Reunion

    Cool, thanks for sharing the pictures. In what town is this located? I live in western, MA and hadn't heard of this show till now. I usually go to the Ty-Rods fall swap meet at Stafford Motor Speedway. -Chris
  2. 1952 B3b with Cummins 4bt

    Thanks. I'm actually glad I was working on a different project for all that time. I learned so much on the '39 and my skills have gotten better. So the work done on the truck will be much higher quality than what I was able to do back then. All I can do is get a bit done at a time and keep improving. -Chris
  3. Well Gentlemen i've finally pulled the trigger on what i had been kicking around for awhile, putting a Cummins 4bt in my '52. I purchased the motor last week off a local diesel shop and i heard it run and runs like a champ. I plan on throwing a 5 speed manual trans behind it, either a Getrag G360 or the NV4500. This is going to be a slow going process while i collect all the necessary parts and most importantly the money to get the stuff. Stay tuned for more... -Chris
  4. 1952 B3b with Cummins 4bt

    Well i'm finally back to working on this thing, boy it's been awhile! Since i last posted i got my '39 Plymouth coupe (see my avatar) back on the road after buying it in July of 2014. That turned into way more of a project than i expected. But i learned a ton in the process and the new skills will help me on the truck. The cab needs a lot of metal work so i decided i'd start with the drivers side door jamb. I had removed the rusted out section a few years ago so i copied the passenger side jamb using the flexible shape pattern method. This method is something that was created by my friend and top notch metal shaper/coachbuilder Wray Schelin (check him out at proshaper.com). Using this method i was able to take the passenger side pattern and turn it inside out and i instantly had the pattern for the drivers side. I then used a combination of bead roller, hammers, dollies, chisels, and sand bag to form the jamb section. It still needs to be gone over one last time to tune up the surface and also to do the final fitment. For now i just clamped it up so i could get an idea of how it was looking. Thanks for looking, -Chris
  5. Removing Floor Pan Rust

    My technique is this: 1. Wire brush or scrape the lose rust off the panel. You can do this by hand or with a wire wheel in a drill. 2. Buy Naval Jelly, available online or Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Here's a link to the stuff i use: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241 3. Forget about the part in the directions that say the stuff will work well in about 20 minutes, it doesn't. Unless the part has very very light surface rust. Apply it to the area you would like to de-rust using a small paint brush. Apply liberally. 4. Get yourself some of the cling wrap stuff you use in the kitchen and cover up the naval jellied areas. Then let it sit for 24 hours. The cling wrap will keep the naval jelly from drying out as quickly and it will do its job much better. 5. The next day scrape and wire brush the rust and dried up jelly off. It may be necessary to repeat the process so that you can get it right down to bare metal. This works well but it requires patience and some elbow grease. I used this process on all the panels i needed to weld on my '39 Plymouth coupe. Good luck. -Chris
  6. Hey Guys,I picked up this '54 Dodge fender off of Ebay awhile back to use on my project. It's in really sorry shape with lots of damage and paper thin metal. I figured i'd try my hand at recreating it. It'll be a great learning experience and lots of fun. I'm fairly new to metal shaping but i did take Wray Schelin's class back in June of 2014. It was a great investment, i learned a ton and would highly recommend his class to anyone wanting to learn. Wray is a master at the craft and an all around nice guy! Since then i've made several small patch panels but no large panel shaping like in this project. I've been doing the shaping at my house and going up to Wray's shop in Charlton, MA for help when im stuck. He's really been a huge help and i can't thank him enough for passing on his knowledge. Check out his website if you're interested, http://www.proshaper.com/ I'll update this thread with my progress as i go. It'll be slow going since im still learning and make lots of mistakes. The attached pics are of the first corner piece i'm making. Thanks for looking, -Chris
  7. 1954 Dodge Scratch Built Rear Fender

    Thanks. I hear ya on the time issue. Thats why in the three years since taking the class i hadn't done much shaping, no time for it. I spent all my time trying to get the '39 Coupe back on the road. It involved making some small patch panels but that was it. I now told my self that i need to do more shaping and i really want to learn. So theres no other way but to get out there and do it. Did you take Wray's class? Yea he is a great guy. Im happy to call him a mentor and a friend. Thank you. It's funny that you bring that up. The two front fenders that i have now are fiberglass. I might end up recreating those in steel.
  8. 1954 Dodge Scratch Built Rear Fender

    Thanks for the kind words guys!
  9. 1954 Dodge Scratch Built Rear Fender

    Here is another picture that i forgot. The fender will be made in 3 pieces then welded together. The tools used so far are, stump, mallet, sandbag, and english wheel. -Chris
  10. Ethanol-free Gas in Ft. Worth, TX Area

    Here's a link to a site that list different stations in TX, as well as other states that sell ethanol free gas. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX I did some research on this in my area of MA and found one station closest to me wanted $75 for 5 gallons of "pure" gas. That's way more than i was willing to pay. So i've stuck with the regular ethanol blended fuel from the pump. -Chris
  11. Ignition coil replace question

    You can call Pertronix customer service and they will help you with finding the coil you need. I believe that depending on what the coil is filled with dictates if it's orientation sensitive. Meaning if it can be mounted horizontal,vertical, or maybe it doesn't matter. -Chris
  12. Wheel Cylinder trouble

    Dont feel too bad. I've done this before as well. I had a friend pumping the brake pedal while i bled the front brakes (with the drums off). Next thing i know i hear a funny sound and see a ton of brake fluid pouring out of my drivers side front wheel cylinder. Duh, the wheel cylinder basically over extended because the shoe had no drum to contact. The fix was easy, put the drum back on and start the bleeding procedure over. I did feel like an idiot though lol. -Chris
  13. Carb issues

    I just replaced the plug wires on my '53 flathead and i used Taylor Street Thunder 8mm set from Summit racing (P/N: 50047). I'm happy with the quality and how they look, maybe those are an option for you as well. Do you think that miss under load could be caused by the fuel that you are using? I've heard that this ethanol blended fuel can cause some wacky stuff with our old engines. Ethanol free gas is hard to find around me and quite expensive. So i've actually switched to running the "Plus" grade of ethanol blended fuel that they sell at the pumps. I believe that the octane rating is 87, instead of the 83 i use to put it. I think this actually had a positive effect on my cars performance. It could all just be cause I've installed the dual carbs and dual exhaust, but i dont know it sure feels like its helped. I'm just throwing out ideas maybe something will spark an "ahhh-haaa" moment for you. Good luck. -Chris
  14. Maybe Rich Hartung will chime in. He is a member on this forum and i believe he owns one of these tools and knows how to use it. The service manual for the car doesn't tell you how? I think my '39 Plymouth manual says what to adjust the brakes to using the Ammco tool. -Chris
  15. Carb issues

    Yea i'd think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I did a vacuum test on my car the other day and it's pulling about 19 inches at idle. Good thoughts on checking the carb. You do have the vacuum advance port on the carb blocked off for the test right? -Chris
  16. KingPin Saga DONE

    Im glad you finally got it solved. That looks like a nice reamer. Just curious on how much it cost? I've toyed with the idea of getting one but usually i just bring them to a local machine shop and they do a great job. -Chris
  17. Carb issues

    Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold with the engine at idle? You can take some starting fluid and squirt it on the gaskets where the intake bolts to the block, and at the base of the carbs. If the engine revs up then you've found your leak. Just use very small squirts, obviously starting fluid is very flammable. I would plug the vacuum port that goes to the vacuum advance as well. Just in case thats leaking. I've also heard of guys doing this same test with an unlit propane torch. I tried that before but i found that the fan blows the gas away so it didn't work well for me. Have you changed the exhaust/ intake manifold gaskets at all recently? I just put dual carbs and dual exhaust on my car and i found that it required a lot of heat cycles and re-torquing of the nuts to totally seal up the exhaust and intake. The gaskets will creep and settle in with the heat cycles. -Chris
  18. 1937 Plymouth P4 Carb problem

    If you contact member "Tim Kingsbury" on this forum he may be able to help you with finding a replacement. Or maybe he knows of an overseas version that will work on the engine. Good luck. -Chris
  19. Carb issues

    Here's another source for rebuilt vacuum advance that you might consider: http://www.classiccadillacwaterpumpsforsale.com/19divaadrese.html I had them do the one for my '53 218 ci last year and it works fine. They do require that you send in your old one as a core. As far as your timing issue goes, i was having troubles with my car last week too. It would start but run rough as hell so i started by loosening the distributor and adjusting it while the engine was running until it sounded better. Well after i did that i shut off the car. Tried starting again and got nothing. So i popped the distributor cap off and realized that some how the lead that connects the points to the distributor had come off. I have no clue how this happened, i hadn't touched the distributor or tried starting the car since last fall. I was amazed that the car even started at all. So i pulled the distributor and fixed the issue as well as checking the point gap. Then i reset the timing to 2 degrees BTDC per the instructions in the manual. The car started right up but still sounded a little bit funny. Next i put on the timing light and readjusted. This made me realize how my initial 2 degrees BTDC setting was actually quite off. Once i dialed it in with the light it made a world of difference. You probably checked all this stuff already but sometimes its the most obvious things that can be causing the most havoc. Good luck and beautiful car! -Chris
  20. Leaf springs

    I have new rear leaf springs on my '39 Plymouth coupe from St. Louis Spring and they work great. I think you'll be pleased with your choice. -Chris
  21. 1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    Hi Guys, I picked up a '39 Plymouth coupe this past July. The guy i bought it from was going to build a street rod out of it but bought one instead, thankfully. The car was last registered in 2011 and the guy i bought it off of never drove the car at all. The guy he had bought it off of was the one that used it as a weekend cruiser. Shes a really solid car with the only rotted spots being in the running boards. The frame and sheet metal is nice and solid which made me real happy. The car had undergone an amateur restoration job somewhere in the early 90's. The drive train appears to be all original including the 75 year old wiring. So here's what i've done to the car since i've owned it: 1. Redid the entire brake system including getting the master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless steel. The old MC was completely shot and could not be honed and rebuilt therefore a re-sleeving was in order. 2. Installed an aftermarket radiator from a '47-'49 Plymouth coupe. The original was leaking and after getting a quote to re-core it for $900 i quickly decided on the $200 aftermarket. 3. Sanded and painted the wheels gloss black. 4. Redid the wiring to the back half of the car. The harness to the rear tail lights and license plate light was all original. 5. Got the car registered and drove her around for about a month, what a blast. I've now stopped driving it because of excessive engine blow by. I'm getting lots of smoke coming out of the oil breather and crank case ventilation pipe. There's also liquid oil on the breather cap after then engine runs for awhile. Im still deciding what i'l be doing about that but basically its another winter time project. My main reason for buying this car was to have something to cruise around in while i finish the '52 Dodge truck i have. So ill need to get it back and running strong for this coming spring. I've attached some pics of the car for your viewing pleasure. Thanks for looking in, -Chris
  22. 1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    So i almost have the steering box completely removed from the car. Im now thinking about the rebuild process. Are there any old manuals you guys know of that might be helpful? I've never rebuilt one before. Or i may just see if my mechanic friend can help me out. Thanks in advance. -Chris
  23. 1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    Cool, thanks.
  24. 1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    Thanks. You did a nice job. Whats the name of the color you painted it? I like it. Thanks for the heads up. I bought 4 exhaust manifold nuts from AMS Obsolete on ebay.
  25. 1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    So along with doing the dual exhaust on the car i'm going to remove the steering box so it can be rebuilt. It's extremely sloppy and can't be adjusted any more. I made a simple steering wheel puller yesterday out of some .25" steel plate, three 3/8 bolts, and a 1/2 bolt. It worked great and the wheel popped right off. My steering wheel feels pretty sturdy but it does have a lot of cracks unfortunately. -Chris
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