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1952B3b23

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Everything posted by 1952B3b23

  1. I do plan on saving a few more old mopars in the future. Right now i have to get this car done and my '52 dodge truck after that. My dream is to design and scratch build my own car body and possibly chassis too. It would be styled in a '30s-'40s roadster type feel, with my own twists of course. I really want to keep working on my metal shaping skills so that i can get them to the point where i can make anything i want. Right now there's still some aspects that throw me for a loop. I know i can do it, it's just a matter of a good teacher,practice, and patience. I'm glad that i got into this hobby at a young age. I've learned so much and have the opportunity to learn from some extraordinarily talented people. Something that I'll always be grateful for and never forget. -Chris
  2. Wow Robert thanks a lot for the compliments! I'm just trying to do my best and learn as much as I can. Not all the work I do comes out exactly the way I have it pictured perfectly in my mind, but that's part of learning and life. I just want to make sure I do my part to save this old girl from becoming a rusted out jalopy. I'm a young guy (27) so I hope to keep this car for a very long time . I really love the lines of it and everything about it. Especially that it's a coupe and not a ford or mercury. Again thanks for the kind words, -Chris
  3. I've been chipping away at some of the metal work on the car lately. I removed the rear fender on the passenger side and found some rusty, crusty metal. So i began the slow process of removing the rust. I like to use naval jelly to remove rust when i can, it doesn't harm the metal at all like it does grinding, and no chance of warping as with blasting. The problem with naval jelly is that it takes a long time and multiple applications to work. The important part is that it does work. I usually wire brush wheel the area first to remove as much flaky rust as possible. Then cover the rusted areas with jelly and put plastic wrap over them (this helps the jelly not dry out). I then let it sit for 24 hours and work its magic. If the area isn't to badly rusty ill wait 30- 60 mins (no plastic wrap). Next step is to scrape the jelly and rust off with some wood chisels. Wood chisels are good because they're sharp and scrape up the rust and jelly well. Then i wipe away any excess jelly and use the wire brush wheel on the surface. It takes multiple rounds to get all the heavy rust off and out of the pits in the metal. This is what i did to the rusty areas where the fender bolted to the car. I've attached a couple pics of the process, i'll have to get some pics of the final result. While i was busting away the rust i began to work on the trunk support bracket which was completely rotted away at the bottom where it meets the trunk floor. This piece is made of 16 gauge steel. I got a chance to use my "new" ( aka 1930's Dreis-Krump finger brake) that i purchased for my self as a Christmas present to bend up the channel. With a bit of cutting, TIG welding, and grinding i got the new piece spliced in. I think it came out well and fits back in it's spot just like it should. Almost like i knew what i was doing . Some of the pictures of it didn't come out that great with the crappy lighting, sorry for that. Next up i'll strip the paint off and paint it up. Thanks for looking, -Chris
  4. Nice truck! Im excited to see this come together. I agree that you're way better off buying a complete engine/trans combo than trying to piece it together. In the long run it'll save you a bunch of dough. -Chris
  5. if it was me I'd just make some new ones. They don't look that complicated. Your rusty/rotted ones still look like they have enough meat on them to use as templates. Good luck. -Chris
  6. Good progress, those rear drums can be a real PIA. That's the same tool i have and it works great. -Chris
  7. I have some rusted out areas on my car that are completely gone. So i have nothing there to help guide me in recreating the patch panels. One of these areas is the lower rear quarter panel right behind the passenger and drivers side door. Could someone take some close up pictures of what this area looks like? This might be a long shot but... if someone near me has a '39 coupe they would be willing to let me come and pull patterns off of I'd greatly appreciate it (and buy you lunch)! I'm located in Western, MA. Thanks in advance, -Chris
  8. Welcome to the forum. A moderator will have to move this thread over to the truck side of the forum. You accidentally posted on the car side. You can lower the front of the truck by getting the axle dropped 3". More info here : http://www.droppedaxles.com The rear can be dropped by moving the axle so it mounts on top of the leaf springs instead of underneath. This probably requires the frame to be c-notched for clearance. How low do you want to go? -Chris
  9. Awesome car , I'll be following this closely. The story behind it makes it even cooler! -Chris
  10. I think you meant to post that on the "DIY Fabrications" thread in the "Off Topic" portion of the board?
  11. Here's a link to a thread i posted on the truck side of the forum. It's a hand built 52 Dodge B3b truck rear fender. I built it in a metal shaping class i took in June 2014. It's still not 100% completed because i got side tracked with getting my '39 Plymouth coupe back together. I'll finish it once the car is "done". http://p15-d24.com/topic/37293-scratch-built-52-dodge-b3b-rear-fender/?hl=%2Bdodge+%2Bscratch+%2Bbuilt+%2Bfender -Chris
  12. Maybe if you post up some dimensions and pictures of the springs you are trying to install someone can ID them for you. That would make finding the parts you need much easier. -Chris
  13. One thing you will learn very quickly as an engineer is, theory rarely matches up to reality perfectly. There's always something that will pop up in the reality of the situation/problem that you didn't account for in your CAD or theoretical work. Please don't think i'm trying to knock your efforts. I'm a mechanical engineer and can appreciate a good CAD model and its usefulness, hell i use them/ make them everyday. The bottom line is that it sounds like you have the drive and willingness to research, learn, and plan what you want to do. No doubt this type of stuff will help you be a better engineer in the future. Way to many engineers only understand the theory, and not necessarily what it takes to actually build what they have designed (basically a lot of them lack common sense). If you can do both you'll be way ahead of the curve. Im sure you can pull these mods off on the truck, best of luck. -Chris
  14. Thank you, i appreciate the kind words! -Chris
  15. Here's a few pictures of some of the rusty areas on the right rear of the car. Not surprisingly the area where the rear fender mounts to the body is looking like swiss cheese. The last photo is a shot of a hole inside the trunk area. Although I'm quite surprised at how solid the car is for it's age. I'll be working on fixing this up in the coming weeks. I'll try and do a decent job of documenting my process with pictures for you guys. -Chris
  16. Heres the link to the disc brake kit: http://rustyhope.com/site/mopar-discbrakes/
  17. You're welcome. Glad i could pass on some useful info.
  18. Hey Paul, good work so far on the dent removal. Here's some useful info, polish up the faces of your hammers and dollies. This can be done pretty easily by using an air die grinder with Roloc sanding discs. Start with a coarser sand paper and move your way up to fine to get a nice defect free surface. This is very important because what ever surface finish you have on the faces of the hammer/dollies will be imprinted onto your panel. Also the faces of the hammers should have a convex shape to them. This is important in case you strike the panel at a bit of an angle the edges of the hammer face wont dig into the panel surface therefore creating more work for you. Also a good way to easily spot the highs and lows on the panel is to take one of those Magnum sized sharpie markers and color the entire surface that you are trying to work. Next take a piece of sand paper (180 grit is fine) and place it on a flat board of wood. Rub the board/sandpaper across the entire surface that you colored in with marker. The sand paper will remove the marker on the high spots and leave marker behind on the low spots. Then you know exactly where to raise the lows and shrink the highs. Shrinking can be done with a shrinking disc installed on an angle grinder or by heating the high spots to cherry red with an oxygen/acetylene torch and then tapping them down with the hammer. I know that in one of your posts you talk about the metal becoming brittle and hitting it to hard. Something i was told when i first started learning metal work was, "remember you're not hammering nails." You really don't have to hit the metal all that hard to get it to move, it's more of a tapping action than an actual hammering. The fender on your car is probably made of 19 gauge steel so it doesn't take much to get it to move. Especially if you're using a dollie with a nice weight to it. In my opinion those shrinking hammers aren't the greatest, the face on them marks up the metal and is probably whats making your metal brittle from hitting it to hard. I never use them, i use the shrinking disc or torch. The finish you get is far superior. If the area you are working is getting really brittle then it's best to remove the metal and replace it with a patch. Also another useful tool is a slapper, these can be made from an old car leaf spring. If you google it you'll know exactly what im talking about. Sorry to go off on such a rant. Metal shaping/working is one of my favorite things to do. I hope i passed on at least a little bit of useful info to you and others who read this. Good luck, -Chris
  19. Thank you. Yea, i can't wait to be driving this thing again. I have a bunch of rust repair to tackle so that's next on the list.
  20. Looks great! I always try to remember that no matter how hard i try to make it perfect i bet with in the first 10 minute drive a rock will pop up and chip my paint. Then i immediately go back to being okay with the imperfections. You're doing an awesome job. -Chris
  21. Looks really nice. I like the tri-carb set up to!
  22. Very true, who knows what the future will bring. I have good intentions anyway haha
  23. I really like the stance, looks just right. The wheels look great too.
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