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wings515

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  • My Project Cars
    PT81

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    RC Flying

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  1. It's been a while since I was on this site and I was very surprised to see your PT81. It is a duplicate of mine with respect to the color combination and I live about 100 miles North of you near Scranton. As to fusing, I did install a fuse block and separated the circuits with 4 or 5 different fuses. As you stated this was a while ago and I do not recall my initial separation idea. I guess I should document what each fuse does, maybe later this week. In any case my light switch did NOT have a lighted knob but did have a fuse mounting on the back. This fuse was used to protect all the lighting circuits but the horn and heater blower were not in the protected circuits. I also replaced the vacuum wiper motors with electrics so I know one of the fused locations on the block is for these motors. I kept the 6 volt positive ground and found an alternator to replace the original generator. I am investigating the Pertronix electronic ignition but in addition to the module, you have to change the spark plug wires to suppressor type. The module for 6 volt Positive ground is $130 plus around $40-$50 for wires. I am trying to justify the expense. If you want me to diagram how I divided the circuits I'll spend the time to investigate further. Just remembered I also changed the headlight bulbs to Halogen. Thinking these might have a higher current load than the originals, I added a relay for these controlled by the headlight switch. BTW, I am a retired EE so electrical issues are no problem for me. Regards, Dan Kahn
  2. To answer the first question, even before the new rebuild the tailpipe was always black. When I re-assembled the engine this Spring I could only get the distributor to time at TDC with the wires in the cap the way there were originally. The adjustments on the base of the distributor are at the extreme end of the travel. Since the show time is nearing the end of the season, next year I think I'll rotate the wires in the cap and reset the timing. I'll take the suggestion to advance 4-5 degrees to see what happens. I'll also look into lowering the float level, probably 1/32". The suggestion not to use a W1 Zenith carb will save about $450. I have seen this carb on ebay for under $50 but it does not have the correct throttle mechanism. I have multiple other Carter carbs to mix and match but I will try the timing first. Thanks for the suggestions. Dan
  3. I have had my PT81 for about 25 years and after the last engine re-build this Spring all seemed to be good. I looked at the tail pipe and noticed it was black and I think it should be gray. Another indication it is running rich happened this weekend. I returned from a show and had to shut off the engine to enter my home. When I went to restart it it seemed flooded. I did finally get it started but now I am wondering if I have the correct carb for this engine. It is a D6G1 that was rebuilt two years ago. I have also replaced the vacuum advance and set the timing at TDC. I read on this forum about replacing the Carter with a W1 carb from a Chevy. Is that a good alternative? There are some W1's on ebay for under $100 but they would have to be rebuilt. Regards, wings515
  4. I saw in your pictures there are several water pumps onthe sheld. Are this still or are they just cores? Also are these the older style pump to fit the 37-39 Plymouth with the 1/2 inch bolt hole inthe lower corner.  I use the older style WP on my 39 Desoto.  I know the 39 Plymouth suspension is different becasue they are smaller so not sure if any thing on those lines would work. Any rear outer axle oil seal that have the 5 bolts holes and the flat cut in the metal.

    Any older Miller tools?

    Rich Hartung

    20 Driftwood drive

    Audubon, PA 19403

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    cell 484-431-8157

    Home 610-630-9188

    1. wings515

      wings515

      I will go out to the garage tomorrow and check.  Best if I take some pictures.

    2. wings515

      wings515

      Here are pictures as promised.  Both are free to turn.  As you can see, one has the rectangular hole at the top and the other has the pipe thread hole.  The backs seem the same.  The cast colored one has the fan bushing removed but the roll pin is with the bushing.

      Let me know if one works for you.

      Regards,

      Dan Kahn

      20170617_080019.jpg

      20170617_080041.jpg

  5. The box in the first picture contains door handles, escutcheon plates and springs. I could not find the stone guards. The trim pieces do not appear to have any dings but I have not inspected them fully. I have not tested the heater fan but I can if someone is interested. Regards, Dan Kahn 39 PT81 Newfoundland PA
  6. I have accumulated a lot of running gear for Mopar in the late 40's early 50's. It is now time to clean out! Anyone living near North East PA will get my stuff at a very reasonable price. Since most of the inventory is heavy, shipping cost would probably determine what is economical. If you have a specific item you are looking for, please reply and I will check my stuff. Regards, Dan Kahn 39 PT81 Newfoundland PA
  7. It has been many months since I replied to this forum. Today the news is VERY good. The worm gear and sector shaft was replaced with no decrease in slop. The adjustments were made and there was relatively no slop in the wheel and again the wandering was evident when driving. Someone suggested checking the Kingpins. There was no movement when checked top to bottom. When I pushed left to right there was significant movement. Investigating further, the bolts holding the bottom two brake adjusters were loose. The previous owner changed the brakes and kept the adjusters loose so adjustments could be made. Removing the cotter pins and tightening these nuts and replacing the pins fixed all my steering problems. I can now drive with 'hands off' and it will go straight down the road. What a long time for a solution. Regards, Dan Kahn 39 PT81 Newfoundland PA
  8. Well I am still at it. I did remove the box from the truck and put it on the bench. I had the bushings measured and they were within .001" of nominal. My sector shaft was as good as the new one I purchased. Inspecting the worm gear showed a large amount of wear. Since this worm is similar to the ones used in Ford's, I ordered a 17 ratio gear from Mac Auto. The length, diameter and pitch were correct but the threads were CCW, opposite the original. Returned and purchased a Right Hand drive worm. Diameter correct, length correct, CW screw correct BUT the pitch was wrong and that is the only RH worm they have. I finally broke down and bought a complete worm and shaft from Len Dawson $275. Waiting for it to arrive. Regards, wings515
  9. I just completed reading the very detailed procedure to rebuilding the brakes. In the discussion a mention was made to Plymouth Bulletin #229 (March-April 1998). I tried searching for this with no success. Can someone point me to this document? ​I am in the process of restoring the brakes since the new after market wheel cylinders I purchased had undersized rubber piston cups and the cylinders leaked. The Major adjustment and brake centering is my concern. Regards, wings515
  10. After much investigation, I am left with two options. I am waiting for a worm gear from a Ford supplier. My original worm from Ford had the worm threads going in the opposite pitch. All other dimensions were correct. Just for kicks and grins, I ordered a right hand drive Ford worm to see if it will fit. I do know my worm has a 17 ratio, it is stamped on the worm. By Friday I'll know how I stand. If this does not work, I'm investing $275 from Len Dawson for a new worm/shaft part. Inspecting my worm shows lots of wear and I can not adjust the center slop to be less than 2" Continuing the saga. Regards, wings515
  11. Hello all, Graciously 36DodgeRam suggested some suppliers for parts. One of the suggestions was Antique Auto Parts of Arlington TX. There is a YouTube video of the place and it looks wonderful. When I called the number I got a "Disconnected" message. Does anyone know the status of this 9 buildings full of all kinds of NOS parts business? What a shame if they are no longer in business. Regards wings515 39 PT81 Scranton PA
  12. My idea of using a Power Wagon box in my PT81 just got shot down. The PW sector shaft is 1.25" diameter and the PT81 is 1.125". A new Pitman arm from VPW is $449 so that solution is out of the question. Inquiring if VPW knew of a rebuild service Jens ( Parts Specialist at VPW) stated that they do it. A basic rebuild is $400. If a new or reworked sector or worm is required, then it could go to $700. I feel much more confident at VPW than at Lares. Sometime in the next week or two I'll be pulling the box and shipping it to Iowa. Don't know what that will cost but it's just part of owning an antique. Regards, wings515
  13. To all who have helped so far, here is an interum update. I checked on the feedback of Lares Sterring Box Rebuilders. I am not impressed. After talking with them they wanted $395 for a rebuild. At least 2 folks stated it was a bait and switch with a final cost of $700 and some needed to return to get the box correct. As an alternative, I found a box at the "Vintage Power Wagon" site. The shaft is 1 1/2" shorter. I have to check the Pitman arm shaft diameter to see if the Power Wagon box is a fit. If it does, a new PW box is 4250. I will need a new steering wheel since the PW shaft is bigger but the combination is still less. Just waiting to move the truck to the 'working' garage. Regards, wings515
  14. PT81Jan, I changed the rear because the original had over 90 of slop in the pinion shaft. I had a 41 rear end and after changing the positions of the spring perches, I have a rear with no slop. According to the P7,P8 manual, the rear can have a ratio of 3.54 to 4.3 with in between 3.73, 3.9 and 4.1. This is dependent on the tire size. Those being 5.24 X 20", 5.50 X 16", 6.0 X 18", 6.0 X 16". When I get the truck back into the 'working' garage, I'll make a rotational measurement. Thanks for the invite to a ride in your truck. It will be quite a while before we can afford the travel expense to cross the pond. Regards, wings515
  15. I used the set from Roberts about 10 years ago and it fit fine on my PT81. Don't know if they are still using the same supplier. I would suggest adding some foam cushion in addition to the horse hair filler. I find I can "feel" the springs in the seat bottom.
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