Young Ed
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Everything posted by Young Ed
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I've done a few of these. 2 were the valves and one was a stuck piston/rings. Yours looks pretty clean so I'm guessing valves. I would hose them down with your favorite penetrating oil or try the brake fluid mentioned above. Heck of you've got some laying around dump ATF on them. Then try rocking the car.
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That heavy wool has gotta have more water holding potential than this tar stuff. Some of what I used is literally water proof roofing material for houses.
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That's true and not what I've got. Just that the last guy did the repairs. Other than whatever black rubbery stuff he used as seam sealer they seem to be installed well. That stuff all pealed right off and I put actual seam sealer over them.
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I knew the metal was there. I crawled all over this thing before buying. No rust buckets for this kid
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Started with buying the proper turquoise seatbelts to replace the cheapy black ones. Then decided to put some sound deadener on the floor. Then discovered the floors were patched up pretty decently but then the seams were coating in some rubbery stuff that just pealed right off when I was wiping the floor down before dynamat. So now I've got proper seam sealer drying along with some rust converter on some surface scale. Tomorrow I can finally start reassembling.
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As long as the clip is fully over the BB I'd say you're good to go
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Small screwdriver or a matching diameter socket should get that clip set
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Sounds like a show your tools post is in order
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ANSWERED 230ci manifold bolt pattern
Young Ed replied to Dodge_48's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Before you get to drilling have you tried welding a nut to the broken stud? -
Going by your profile pic and handle of p17 you have a late 49.
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A 49 doesn't have a true VIN it has a serial number. I believe all you can decode from it is what plant it was built in and an approximate production time.
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Not sure where you got the notion that the /6 dist conversion is difficult. I had mine converted in about an hour. The trickiest part is sanding a few thousand off the OD of the /6 dist so it fits in the flathead block. Beyond that everything else is just dismantling both and swapping over the drive.
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I would guess it was new when the car was restored in the mid 90s. Has 16k miles since then and probably hasn't been touched in that time.
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Well I figured the brakes were too good to be true. Drove it a little more and came home to a puddle under the MC! Had the wife pump the brakes while I watched and there is fluid coming out around the pushrod. Is that something a rebuild will solve or should I be shopping for new?
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Only thing I've ever car dolly'd backwards was a 66 fury that was a ladies daily driver until the early 2000s when one of the rear wheel bearings died and the wheel hit the inside of the 1/4. So that one went backwards for a little different reason.
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I maybe didn't make it that clear but when I said Mom took me for ice cream she was driving! We have a big car show this weekend (10-11k cars) and she wanted to practice a little before attending
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Thanks - it's kind of self serving though as Dad can't drive anymore. Was nice putting the top down and going for a ride. Mom even took me for ice cream
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Over the last week I've gotten all but one started up. Took the 66 wagon and 54 out for rides up north. Yesterday took the 51 for a ride to my house and gave it a bath. So far 6 will start. The 69 is low on atf so we couldn't drive it and it needs a new battery. The 54 IHC will only run with gas poured in the carb so something happened to the fuel system. The slightly weird part the 51 brakes were weak. MC looked empty so I filled it and immediately had brakes. I hunted for any sign of a leak but couldn't find any. Even pulled both front drums because the backing plates looked a little oily.
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I would think it's 8 3/4 but not the 8 3/4.
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The carrier swaps in as a whole from later cars and trucks. I have a car 3.9 in my 46 WC
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I'm hoping the yearly draining would have flushed out and kept the crud from building up but I will grab a coat hanger just in case. Setup is 12y old so I don't think it's due for full replacement yet. No signs of any rust but I guess I'll see what it looks like when I pull that lower element. It's located under the cabin in the crawl space so if it did start leaking it wouldn't wreck anything
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Sounds like I'm on the right track then with the element replacement. This water heater is from 5-2011 so we've probably been on borrowed time. It does get drained every fall and sit empty for almost 1/2 a year though
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Unpleasant surprise this spring the cabin water heater stopped heating at all. Goggling says the upper thermostat controls both and is a common failure. So yesterday I ran up there with one and still don't really have hot water. If you hold your hand under the hot and then the cold you can feel a little difference but it's still far from even warm. Unfortunately I didn't think to grab a thermometer. Buddy that was with managed to get a really ancient volt meter going and we confirmed power at the top thermostat and element. Nothing to the bottom which according to one article we found is expected. So time for new elements? Hoping to get this right as it's 120miles to the cabin and once their the closest good sized hardware store is 50miles.
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I have the dodge version that I sent to the guys making the LED taillights. They were going to copy it and start making some.... But that was like 15 years ago and I haven't seen or heard anything in years. May never see that piece again
