dan01wilson

Where can I find the pattern for carburetor or fuel pump heat shield for my 1951 Dodge B3B-108 truck? Thanks

As you were. Driver side is the same. Obviously was how they fabricated them.

Passenger side bracket had been broken and welded. Truck has been in my family since new and never wrecked, so puzzling in that regard. Glad they arc welded it, since they brazed a lot of stuff back then, as I recall...

Correction. Outboard lip is currently UNDER the top flange of the frame rail.

I need help or advice on the best way to install the rubber biscuits in my motor mounts. I got my truck back from the shop with no rubber pads in the rear motor mounts whatsoever. I got the pads from Roberts Motor Parts and fabricated the spacers from some 5/8" stainless tubing. Can somebody help me with some advice or a YouTube video of how to approach this? Motor mounts and rubber pads are shown at the top of the attachment. Thanks in advance. I specifically need to know if the outboard lip of bracket 9-70-4 goes on top of the upper flange of the frame rail or under it. Currently the lip is on top of the frame rail and doesn't look right. This site won't let me post a picture because of the 3 MB restriction. I will try to post a picture separately.

OK. Thanks a lot for your responses.

So I don't have to take the front motor mount loose? It will flex enough? Thanks for the response

I need help or advice on the best way to install the rubber biscuits in my motor mounts. I got my truck back from the shop with no rubber pads in the rear motor mounts whatsoever. I got the pads from Roberts Motor Parts and fabricated the spacers from some 5/8" stainless tubing. Can somebody help me with some advice or a YouTube video of how to approach this? Thanks in advance.

My 1951 Dodge B3B starts quickly when cold; not so well when hot. I recently installed a new spring in my manifold stove. Wonder if I need to rewind the spring?

Driver door glass will only roll down if I go back and forth several times. Rolls up ok. Regulator looks ok with flashlight.

Now I'm thinking about rebuilding the motor IN THE TRUCK like we used to rebuild tractor motors. I really wanted the motor blueprinted, though, with bores properly done, centerlines intersecting, block vatted, etc, etc.

Not sure my sheet metal is an issue. The slip or clearance fit between the engine and the actual motor mounts is an issue. Once clear of the actual motor mounts, maybe I can cock the passenger side forward and up and then come up and clear the steering column with the driver side of the bellhousing unit. What do you think?

I need the most basic help there is. I am pulling the engine out of my (late) grandfather's 1951 B3B-108 Dodge Pickup. It has close to 100,000 miles with only one head gasket replacement that I remember. It's blowing oil out the road draft tube so I'm sure there is ring blow-by. I have a good machine shop lined up, but here's the problem: I'm struggling with pulling the engine. I have a cherry picker and a load leveler, but I have not got to that step yet. Being a 71 year old ex hot rodder, I've pulled v8 ford and chevy engines years ago. They typically had motor mounts in the center of the block on both sides, and a transmission crossmember. As you know, this old Dodge is nothing like that. There is a straightforward looking front mount arrangement. The rear mount is what is throwing me. It looks like the rear mount is integral with the bellhousing and runs all the way from one frame rail to the other. Looks like the master cylinder and pedal shaft definitely have to come out. Not sure the crossmember will clear the steering shaft. Could somebody please coach me through this? I have the generator and starter removed and rebuilt; fluids drained; hood removed; radiator removed; driveshaft removed; getting ready to remove the transmission. Most of my confusion relates the rear engine mounts/crossmember. There is nothing on youtube, and the shop manual tells me to remove headlights and the whole front clip. It might be easier to call me on my cell and talk me through this. Thanks, Dan Wilson (205)907-2204