No Bux Rod

Chris, Glad to see the old flathead make up the peak. Slow but steady. We all would like to see a picture of you climbing on the the platform. When you stopped at the wind farm you were supposed to park by tower "D24" not "D54" That is cool to get so close to such a large piece of machinery. Thanks for inviting us along on your adventure. //dave

Tim, Had a great time meeting the gang. I am sure CHris and Jerry enjoyed the sendoff. Speaking of traffic, I knew I was in trouble when I cought up to Richie and BIlly since they had left 1/2 hlour before me but were stuck in the great I-75 slowdown of 2011. I think it was more than 25 miles long. I was so inspited looking at Tim's shop and numerous projects that I spent 2+ hours cleaning out my shop today. If you can't find the parts you can't install them.... Thanks, Tim and Sally for hosting. N B R (Dave)

I just read the Cash-for-Clunkers (C4C) trade in thread and wanted to add some inofrmation. Here is the answer to the question: what happens to the cars? I visited 2 self service junk yards yestarday (near Atlanta) and took a look at the C4C cars, yes cash for clunkers cars can end up at your favorite salvage yard. Off course there is plenty of paperwork for the operator. I think the Junkyard operators are doing the engine destruction and marking the cars. Here is what I found. C4C care had their engines ruined with the silica silicate or whatever. Engines were marked with orange paint and tags. There were papers taped on the windshield that mentioned that the core engine: block head(s), crank and cam were NOT for sale. All other parts were for sale Alts. water pump, dist...etc. as well as the rest of the car. The good news is that these cars are (were) in much better condition than junked cars of the same year. These cars had to be licensed and driveable. So if you need a Dakota front or rear end then they are probably in better shape. The bigger lot had about 75-80 C4C cars and trucks, including; Dodge dakotas, RAM 1500 PU, Grand caravans. Other models in large numbers were Ford Explorers. Most cars were 1990s with some newer than 2000 and only a couple 1980s machines. IN some ways this is a secondary stimulus package in that it is helping the junkyards and we car guys get access to some newer parts. Happy shopping. N B R

Been there and done that... I tried to buy a 237" DeSoto motor amd never could get the price down from $300 for a long block. They had a whole '51 wagon in fairly good shape for a car that sat for the last 15-20 years and wanted $5000, about double the real value. The only deal they had last year was a '55 Ply moredoor V8-Powerflite with not too much rust for $1500. N B R

Tim, Looks like a fun gathering last Saturday. I just showed my wife the photos to prove to her that I am not the only "old" Mopar guy around. Maybe next time I will be able to make it. Thanks for the invitation. //dave (AKA No Bux Rod) <-- Hey maybe that is why I did not make it, no vintage car just some flathead motors.

MPN Great looking motor. I hope my 265 looks that nice when I get it together. Can you provide some more photos and details on the oil filter adapter..looks like a spin on. N B R

Tim, That radio looks similar to the one in my bedroom waiting for some TLC. That one in the ad is probably not a Philco. There are two areas to look at: 1. tubes and 2. the electrolytic capacitors. Let me know when you get one and I can help you get it going. I also have a tube tester. //dave (N B R)

Lou, Nice find. The ford looks like a replacement for your Camry. Especially if it's going to be your daily driver. N B R

Greg g What more modern pistons have you seen in 265s? The almost 2" compression height makes a match tough with stock rods. The only ones I have found is a custom set from Ross at about $100-$125 ea. N B R

For the record, if you are looking for compression on a 230" motor your best starting point is a '57-'59 (Dodge or Plymouth) head with 8.0:1 CR. For '55-'56 Dodge is 7.4:1 while the '55 Ply and '54 Dodge are 7.25:1. 218" motors will have about 5% lower CRs with the same head. I think a milled is a lot lower cost than a cast alum head. So search around for a late '50s head for $100-$150 and your on your way. N B R

Earl Edgerton has 3 or 4 cam grinds for Mopar flatheads. His e-mail address is -- edgerton@pacbell.net --. If you find a '57-'59 230 head you will have a CR of 8:1 before milling. While a '55/'56 head is around 7.4:1 N B R

Dave, Take a look at the numbers on this link. No match but the most complete I have seen. If your LP6 is L6P then you have a '58 230" motor. Here is the link: http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/19581968engines.html N B R

If you think the drill bit piece has made it to the water jacket, then you can remove th lower freeze plug(s) where you will find about 3/8 to 1/2 spacing between the cylinders. From that point you could use a slender magnet to get the part from the other side of the block. If the drill bit is laying on the shelf above the valve spring chamber, you can fish around with a piece of wire until it falls dwn to the bottom. Not sure if this will work bit I had to drill a hole in the back of a block to get a WD tube out. N B R

Tim, Glad to see you got some paint on the PLY. That low mileage 6 sure sounded sweet when I stopped by your place. It's also good to see someone is making progess on a project. N B R

Don, I am just about to get back on the cam grind or re-grind search. Who is Richie? Let me know as I am considering any option at this point. As for running the motor on a dyno, I was in a pro race engine shop with an engine dyno and their price was $800/day. I am sure there would be extras for adapters/mounts, etc. I will probably go with a chassis dyno. N B R