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HughForrest

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About HughForrest

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Location
    Santa Cruz, Ca
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Woodie, '38 Chrysler 'Vert, 1959 D100

Converted

  • Location
    Santa Cruz, Ca
  • Interests
    Cars, Surf

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Owned a bicycle shop. Now retired.
  1. Edmonds Head qestions and problems

    Greg is right about just exchanging with George if he has the carbs you need on hand (which he probably does). Linkage wouldn't be hard to do yourself, but again he probably has all the little bits right on his workbench. You'll be scratching your head and chasing parts around. I don't know what George charges anymore, but I'll bet it is worth it to just get it from him. I didn't need any spacers with my Edmunds intake so I can't speak to that. I suspect the headers add more coolness and bragging rights than horsepower.
  2. Edmonds Head qestions and problems

    I run an Edmunds head- milled, but I don't know how much. Just enough to get it flat- with the stock cam, tube headers, and Edmunds dual intake. I had my Carter B&B carbs re-jetted by George Asche and the whole setup works great together. I think without re-jetting it would run kind of rich.
  3. Mar-K has most of the info you probably want here: http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/dodgeshortbedidentification.pdf Just re-read. You're not talking short bed. Nevermind...
  4. 53 bed wood install help

    I just did the wood & bed install. I put a low-side bed ('51) on a town wagon chassis, so it is a bit of a mongrel, but I'm just over the hill in Santa Cruz if you want to have a look.
  5. Wheels for my 1952

    How about a set of this style in the 16x4.5 size? They're available...
  6. window rubber seal stuff

    I just did the windows on my truck with proper glass setting tape and it went together nicely, but the guy who sold me the tape at the old-school glass shop said sometimes he'll use a couple of dots of weatherstrip adhesive on the tape. Said if the fit is a bit sloppy because one thickness of tape is too thin and doesn't grip, and the next thicker is too fat, he uses the thinner tape+ w/s adhesive.
  7. Poly 318 aftermarket temperature gauge help

    As long as it is the right bolt pattern I think you'd be OK. Check out this thread from the HAMB: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/motor-mopar-thermostat-housings.658266/
  8. Poly 318 aftermarket temperature gauge help

    I'm using one in the upper radiator hose kinda like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-72065/overview/
  9. How to Attach Bed-To-Frame?

    Thanks guys- Much to my surprise, with the bed mocked up the rear wheel is nicely centered (front-to-back) in the fender. The P.O. who started the project must have been planning on this bed length. The rear end is a little wide though, so it will require either skinny wheels or a bit of positive offset to keep the wheels inside the fenders Merle, that photo was taken by the previous owner and that townie body you see was originally going to go on the chassis that is under my truck now. He changed directions and built a new chassis to accommodate a big Cummins, and sold me this one. AFAIK that townie is still being finished, but it's not mine. On the other hand, whilst doing this project I've accumulated a lot of body parts I won't be needing that fit the '59/'60 style pickups as well as the '59 and newer Townies, so if there is anything anybody needs...If I have it extra it'll be cheap. I don't have good pics, but here's another couple of the chassis:
  10. I've got an unusual situation in that I have a '59 cab on a Town Panel (maybe '63) frame, to which I'm attaching a '51 low side bed. I'm obviously not concerned with factory correct, but I am interested in how the factory did things as a starting place for my own efforts. I've looked over many bed-related threads, but haven't found any pictures or much description of how the factory attached bed to frame. Was the bed really just held down with 4 (or 6) bolts to the cross sills? Also, at the rear of the truck does the last bed cross sill sit directly on the frame rail, or does the frame rail end short of the sill? My frame is too long because it's off a townie so I need to decide where to cut it. I appreciate any suggestions.
  11. Rear Transmission Mounts

    I was thinking if sliding the rubber in from the side the T-sleeve/washer thang wouldn't have to come out. Am I visualizing this wrong?
  12. Rear Transmission Mounts

    I'm facing up to doing the mounts on my '50 Plymouth. Got the bolts out, the front is loose, the jack is under the oil pan. As I laid there on the garage floor staring at the oil-soaked sponges that are nowhere close to coming out I thought it might be easier if I cut the rubber out. And if that is easier, maybe I also slot the new mounts and slide them into place. What do you think? Just a knife slit and flex them enough to get them into place...?
  13. Water Pump Attaching Bolts

    Don is right: I'll seal them all, but since I have 3 different lengths at least one must be wrong. Also did Ma Mopar use washers or lockwashers on them? Might as well do it right...
  14. Water Pump Attaching Bolts

    I'm replacing the water pump on my '50 Plymouth (218) and was surprised to find that each of the 3 bolts that hold the pump on the block was a different length. I know at least one of them strikes water so length probably does matter. I looked in my manua l and in the parts book and found nothing. What is the proper length(s), and which one(s) need sealant?
  15. Front WMS Measurement '58-60

    Slow day at work today, so I was eventually able to find it, and I'll post it up to save someone else the hassle in the future: From '59 forward they were either 64.5 or 65" depending who did the measuring.
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