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About furiousgeorge

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 01/22/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge 1/2 on Dakota frame.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm married with three kids, and have been a Dodge man since I was 10.
  • Occupation
    I'm a miner operator underground for Mosaic Potash.


  • Location
    Saskatoon erea, Saskatchewan, Canada
  • Interests
    I've rebuilt a few MoPars, scale model building, anything that keeps my hands busy!

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  1. furiousgeorge

    Disc brake conversion issue

    I have them in with the bleeder screw pointing up, as per the instructions.
  2. furiousgeorge

    Disc brake conversion issue

    Ok, I sent him an email. I imagine it’ll be a simple solution that I’m overlooking, but it’ll be good to get his input.
  3. Hello, I am mostly done getting a Rusty Hope disc brake conversion onto my '50 1 ton (I swapped in 1/2 ton spindles). I've ran into a few problems that the search couldn't help much with. First is the brake hose. I have them attached to the hard line in the stock location, but the hose rubs on the tire/rim when turned to the limiter (for example when the passenger side turns all the way to the right.). I double checked the part numbers and I have the right hose, and it can only be put on the caliper one way. The hoses had a bracket on them, but the instructions said to remove them, so I did. Does anyone have a picture of how they put this together? Second is more of an annoyance then anything. The bearing dust caps fit pretty good the first time they went on (I lost the cotter pins, so I put the caps on to keep junk out of there until I got new ones), now they're too loose to stay in the hub. They were just on the shelf ones that matched the part number provided. I've never come across this issue before, maybe they were the wrong size? I'm assuming that these problems are my own fault, as the kit and parts list provided nearly just fell together up to this point. I figured I'd try my luck here before bothering Charlie with this.
  4. furiousgeorge

    Industrial engine into truck

    I ended up passing on it. I’ve got enough junk taking up space, and my 251 is in good shape. Thanks for all the info, it’s good to know in the future!
  5. Hello! I have a ‘50 1 ton that I’m working on (disc breaks, axle swap). I have a good 251 I’m planning on building for it as cash allows, but I’ve been offered a rebuilt industrial engine. He’s getting me the numbers, but knew it had been rebuild around ten years ago and mostly been in storage. It’s from a Massey 44 tractor, and says it has a 3 7/16 bore. My question is; what will I need to make it work in my truck? I have the original 228 that spun a rod bearing for parts. I’m thinking the carb and cam? Thanks!
  6. furiousgeorge

    Engine swap question

    Yup, she drove pretty good before the rod bearing seized. I’m looking forward to going from 87 to 116-125ish (don’t know the year, and the numbers I’ve found online tend to wander). It’s not hitting anywhere, I can nearly spin it around in a complete circle. I’ll try going back in a few times. I’ve got a floor jack supporting it, and it moved fairly easily up until it didn’t!
  7. furiousgeorge

    Engine swap question

    Ok, so I’ve nearly got the toasted 228 ready to pull out of my ‘50 1 ton. I just have to pull the transmission out. I couldn’t get the driveshaft off the transmission, got the 4 bolts off, but it won’t come off? So I figured I’d just leave it on. I’ve got everything disconnected from the transmission otherwise, and it slid back about an inch or so off the bell housing, them stopped. I can’t get it to come out anymore. i can’t see anything holding it back or binding? I’m hoping to drop the 251 in tomorrow if all goes well.
  8. furiousgeorge

    Carburetor identification

    Does anyone know how these run compares to the B&B? I have a good running Carter on my ‘50 right now, but I’ll try the Rochester if it’s worth the rebuild.
  9. furiousgeorge

    Carburetor identification

    Hm, are they any better then the B&B? It seems to have a larger throat, flows more?
  10. furiousgeorge

    Carburetor identification

  11. I have this 251 sitting in my garage, I was told from a 55 or 56 1 ton. There’s a different kind of carb on it, not the usual ball and ball. I’ve scrapped off some crud (not all though, it’s on there good!), but can’t see a tag or any numbers? Does anyone know what this is? Is it better then the ball and ball? I tried googling it, but that just brought up b&b’s.
  12. furiousgeorge

    Block heater removal

    I had one that was the head bolt type, and two that are regular frost plug ones. I assume it was a 110v? My 50 is a regular one that seems to work good off regular house power.
  13. furiousgeorge

    Block heater removal

    I just punched a hole through it and pried it out. I got another off a friends parts truck.
  14. Hello, I recently picked up a ‘50 1 ton with a 228. It ran great, started great, ran smooth with no noise, good oil pressure. Then the other day it stopped dead and wouldn’t turn over. Pulled the pan out and found the seized bearing on cylinder 6. Ok. I’ll pull the crank and have it checked to see if it’s salvagable, though I think it is, doesn’t look terrible considering. The rod cap looks ok, but I can’t get a good look at the rod itself at the moment. My question is, being a 25” engine, are the rods shared with other sized motors? Or do I need a 228 rod? Same with the crank. Thanks!
  15. furiousgeorge

    Suspension swap?

    Possibly a dumb question, but will the springs from a ‘48 1/2 ton short box fit a ‘50 1 ton short box? Found a real nice (body wise) ‘50 1 ton, but the rear springs are shot. I have all the 1/2 tons parts, and a complete disc brack set up and Dakota rear end, thought it could be a quick fix and drive truck while I space over my frame swap for the ‘48.

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