Oberstar

Are the shift rail caps found on the shifter housing a product I can find at a local hardware store? I'm missing a couple and would like to keep fluid actually in the tranny... http://

Thank you. Seller cancelled order without issue.

The seller accepts returns, has good feedback, but did describe it as NORS and in working condition. I don't think we'll have a problem with a refund if it comes to that; I wrote him to ensure he includes the spring. PA- can this not be resolved by just adding the spring, or am I missing something truly broken?

Thanks, brother. My local NAPA wanted $25 for a new one by Standard, so I bought it, but then I kept getting jerked around with the shipping time. Canceled the order, found this one on Ebay, and but screwed myself again

I recently found a new cap for my IAD-4201 dizzy for my 46 Dodge motor. Only after buying it, I noticed that there's no 'spring' at the inside coil connection? Am I missing a part, or is this the way Sorensen built their caps?

Thanks, Dpollo! I found a 6v Stewart Warner electric temp gauge that was NOS, and came with the 362J sender, that is apparently 1/2in and should fit right in. Fingers crossed!

Gents, what size is the threaded hole (in the head) in a 230 that accepts the mechanical temp gauge sending unit? Perhaps accepts a sender with 1/2in Pipe Thread?

Thanks for the replies, guys- In an effort to be aware of changing the water pump in the future, I utilized a stud at the 3 position, but new bolts and washers at the 6 and 9. I chased the threads and cleaned the bolts- but how are you expected to seal the threads that go into the water jacket, but also keep the bolts from seizing?

Gents, I'm applying a new water pump to my D24 motor, installed into a WC52 3/4T truck. My WC manual shows (3) studs utilized. May I ask what length bolts you used in your block, and where did you place them? Looking at the front of the motor, I plan on using a stud at the 3 o'clock position, but which lengths to use at the 9 and 6? Thanks! Got a good price on a Gates, then learned it was Chinese...

Thanks, Motterso. Grief- nothing's easy...

Gents- none of my manuals show, what appears to be, a bolt that comes from inside the block, and attaches to the front engine plate? I'm attempting to change out the seal there, and the timing cover seal, and having a heck of a time removing it due to that object sitting at the 8 o'clock position from the gear. The only holdup to re-sealing this motor...

Rich- no, it's not the 'typical' crust you see on a modern cable. It's just the "copper wire cable sitting on a dusty shelf for 60 years" kind of grit and tarnish. The cloth is attempting to unravel as well. Best way may be to just measure impedance and see that its doing its job?

I have original 1ga cable from my 43 Dodge, and the ends are a bit corroded, not knowing what the condition looks like underneath the heavy cloth. Can the entire cable be dropped into some vinegar until clean, or another method that will get these originals back into service?

Well, pain may be my best Instructor! I chose to do this motor the hard way, by having the entire motor/tranny supported by my shop crane. I'm in the process of degreasing, and shot the first coat of primer yesterday. Anyway, I overlapped the front main as you should, but did cut the rear small tabs to be able to fit flush against the end of the pan. I then used spray glue to glue the cork gasket down to the pan, and Permatex 2 dabbed in each of the gasket corners. Grease was the only item used on the end gasket pieces. I may have made a mistake by not using any Permatex on the long gaskets, but we'll see how she acts. This site has always been fantastic about guidance on these flatheads, but the experience of screwing something up and re-doing it stays with me longer...

Yeah, I'm making this out to be harder than what it really is! The notched gasket set is actually from Fel-Pro. And Don, I've read your instructions on another thread as well, so its time just to get it done! For now, I'm planning on using grease only for the end seals, and Permatex Aviation Sealant for gasket to pan adhesion. Not sure if my 1946 motor uses the rubber rings on the main cap, but I'll check it out...