White Spyder

I was looking on e-bay today and saw a Chrysler Windsor Traveler. It did not have a rack on top and the owner claimed that it never did. It was also stated that there were very few made like that (less that 15). I have a Windsor Highlander and know that the plaid interior is the main trim difference that makes it different from other Windsors along with other upscale options, but what options makes a Traveler?

Nice Chrysler convertible too.

Well, after 64 years the covering of the wiring under my hood has become brittle and in some places disapeared. With cold wet weather setteling in, I thought I would string some new copper. Is there a vendor that sells connectors and line caps that our cars used?

I am sure he will be posting here soon!

Ended up with a new Purolator filter from Advance, 15W40 oil and ZZDP additive that I had for my other cars.

Thanks all. Don, You are correct, a search does turn up some interesting reading and spurred my question as I could not find the right weight oils here and knew folks like yourself, who know more than I, would chime in. In general I would agree with you about additives but the zzdp thing seems to have some measure of truth from what I have read. To your point though, I have a Fiero that ran like crap when I used "advanced engineered" spark plugs. I bought them after watching Power Block TV where they showed actual gains with use of them on a dyno. The car runs GREAT on cheep AC Delco copper plugs. Go figure !?

I read some of the threads on what type of oil to use in our old flatheads and 20W40 oil, non synthetic, is the original and some say you can go to 15W40. I went to 3 different national parts stores and the closest I could find was either 10W40 or 20W50. I live in Mississippi and wonder what would be best. Additionally, I read a bit about zzdp and our older engines, what do you do ?

Thought I would share a shot.

Got 'er done! If it was not raining today I would go for a test ride.

The one I have actually has 2 center supports.

Got the visor painted to match the car and I am now ready to install it. The question I have is about the center supports. The instructions from Fulton (found old copy on the net) state that you should not loosen the windshield trim but moisten the rubber to aid the clamp slipping into place. There have also been others that have said it is better to loosen the trim screws just a bit. Which is the best ? My windshield has been replace in the past but I do not know how long ago that was. If you have installed one of these what did you do? TIA

I ended up using small screws to hold the "fuzzies" in place. I got the material from Steele Rubber. After installation the windows were VERY tight so much so you had to help the windows up as you turned the crank. After some tedious work with a drimmel tool I was able to shave the "fuzzies" enough to allow the windows to move more freely.

I need to replace the driver and passenger door glass on my car and thought that while the glass was getting done I should get the felt strips at the base of the door replaced. I ordered new parts from Steele Rubber based on their tech service department's recommendation. The glass shop doesn't see how the parts I have will work nor how to attach felt to the door frame. In the photos below you can see the old felt on the inner frame. It looks like it is secured to the frame by a type of staple. In the second is the part that came from Steele Rubber. The questions are; 1) did I get the right part and if so how is it secured to the inner and outer frame. 2) if it is the wrong part what is it that I need to order and from who. Also, how is it secured? 3) any other ideas ? Thanks,

Trying to find the bulb number for the turn indicators in the dash and best source for them. TIA

Finally got a chance to do some more work on this issue. Ran a ground from the battery to the socket and it did not make a difference. I did find something new though. In the past all testing has been don with the e-brake engaged and warning light flashing. When I disengage the brake, thus turning of the warning flasher, the turn light no longer work for either side. Is the relay bad or do I have another issue?

I thought so too but put a level on it and it is not.

I was hoping for a staff car but figured it was for something else :rolleyes:Now I have to decide if I want to keep it.

Got this at an auction and need help with the ID of the engine it is for. Says Chrysler on the cover but is it for a 251 or something else?

My Son has a '34 Diamond T that we are working on with a stuck valve. The motor was overhauled but never started when put up 5 years ago. We have torn it down to replace gaskets and check things and found a stuck valve. We need some help with ideas to get it freed up. Did the basics, PJ blaster and such and can make it move with light taps from a dead blow hammer but were concerned about getting it down and not getting it to move freely. check out the attached photos.

Saw this http://www.kruseclassics.com/index.cfm?id=208&auc_code=HA11&lot=60 Nice car but what is up with the wipers? Belong to anyone here?

Been busy traveling with work and did not have any time to sort this out. Now I have installed a new socket and no longer have to rock the bulb side to side to get it to work. Still can not get the running light and flasher to work right. I can get the running light to work or the turn to work but not both. It is one or the other. I have wired the socket to the clips and traded switching but no luck. Any ideas?

camera angle to level is a nice touch too. This may be close and altering perspective but i like it.

Took the Chrysler out yesterday to a local body shop that has a very good reputation for nice work, I just needed them to use the special camera they have to help me match the paint for my Fulton visor. The paint has faded quite a bit over the last 63 years. Out of curiosity I asked what it would cost just to re-paint the car in the original color. I was floored to hear 10-15K !!!! He said to remove all the trim and do proper blocking and sanding to make it look right took many hours and the cost of the paint alone would be close to a grand. No other body work included and it could go higher if there were old repairs or rust found. For those of you who have re-painted your cars lately, what did you pay and what were the detail of the job? I.E. just a prep and re-spray, sanded down and painted, type of paint and how many coats.

The turn light does not have a brake light on the Windsor it has a single brake light in the center. The combination of the stock flasher and LED are working on the right side and on left when the bulb is held in the right position. I used alligator clips with the bulb out of the socket to power and ground and all worked as it should. So, I think the issue is the socket.. I do plan to add another ground as suggested. My Fiero ran much better when I added an extra ground to it. Smoother idle and better overall electrical performance.

I have always loved cars and wore many a matchbox and Corgi out. Still wish I had them. As my boys grew up I got an old Opel GT to restore as a father son project. We joined a fledging club and enjoyed going to shows with a unique car. A few years later I bought a Fiero to learn to paint and build a stroker motor. Last January, my wife and I attended our club's annual business dinner. The guest speaker ended his talk telling the crowd that he had a friend that had a 1948 first edition Chrysler with tthe highlander package. All original, except the seat covers with had been re-done a few years back with original material from an old Chrysler warehouse. The owner was selling it due to the fact he was suffering from macular degeneration and couldn't drive it any more. My wife suggested that I check out. I was surprised as I was not looking for another project. Well, I did and fell in love with the car and bought it.