Tom Skinner

38plyroadking, I'm sorry that happened man. Beautiful Car. I glad you were not hurt. I hope you can remain a car guy and go for it again. Maybe start over with another and keep going with our Hobby. Good Luck and all our best wishes for you from this Forum. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Neil, You may be right. There probably is a smaller effect when cold, however, why has my problem gone away? The Valve may not have a valve stop left on it - either worn away or rusted off. When that happens and the spring is cold the Flap/Valve is too far open and exhaust doesn't help the function which to some degree determines the fuel molecules reaching the cylinders in the right "suspended state". I would read those pages I suggested in that Booklet above because installing a new Stop correctly has seemingly fixed this problem for me. I believe it is stated as: "Its function is to preheat the air-fuel mixture delivered by the carburator so it will reach the cylinders in a vaporized state and be more efficiently converted to power through more complete combustion". In addition "watch the movement of the thermostat shield when the engine is quickly accelerated". "If the thermostat shield moves about a quarter of a turn when quickly accelerated the unit is working as it should". (Engine Power & Economy) Service Reference Booklet August 12, 1948 Volumn 1 Number 12. If the Valve stays closed as when cold vaporization of the mixture is not complete. " The Gasoline would be drawn into the cylinders all right but might not burn, Instead, that unburned portion would find its way down into the crankcase and dilute the oil".

Ditto x4 in modern terms: u need a new mechanic

These Old Flat Heads will Eat Small Screws if you drop them down the Carburator when they're running so a little ethanol - cornahol - whatever is like drinking Lite Beer for them. Truth be told Gas was 72 Octane with Lead in it when they were made, so 87 Octane with no lead and ethanol probably doesn't phase them in the least. Now maybe Rubber Gas Lines are made out of Crap and don't stand up to things like ethanol. Even the "Collector Car Restoration Bible" by Matt Joseph talks about the Fuel Pumps needing "Modern" Diaphrahms in them to combat the ethanol problem so maybe there is Rubber issues from this Crap Element introduced into our Gas nowadays. Was the Line Hot when you took it out? If so it would seem soft. Remember also the Rubber Line Flexes with Engine movement and this could also break down its integrity.

3 in one oil is what I have used since 1973 always keeps everything in order for my Generator Lube Ports just a drop or Two per Port two or three times a year (or every 500 -600 miles) works for me. Tom

Rockwood, Does your Temperature Spring hold the Manifld Heat Control Valve/Riser Flap in the correct position? The Service Manual Booklet "Engine Power & Economy" Volumn 1 No. 12 August 1948 on pages 16-20 discuss the importance of the position of the Valve a picture on Page 16 show the Valve Stop's correct positioning (when Cold) so the mixture/temperature is correct for starting - whether cold or hot. In addition to this a real "Rich" setting might be the culprit as well. Go to The WPC Club Website (www.wpcclub.com) see Technical Tab will show you the entire Booklet if you don't already own one. I just changed out my Manifolds (They were rotting and leaking) and when I re-installed my Valve Stop correctly it fixed my flooding when Hot problem and now when cold it starts like a Gun Shot. Its Critical That the Spring is wound conterclockwise as the instructions walk you through this pay particular attention to the Valve Stop position on the Weight. Tom Huntersville, NC

Thanks Fellows I thought about it and I have never really kept paint on my Exhaust Manifolds long - but they looked so purdy on the bench I got disapointed seeing some paint trying to cure off when running it for the first time. As a side note when I shut her down Hot I re-snugged all the nuts and they all really tightened up quite a bit more Hot/Warm then when first installed cool. Test Drive tomorrow after I use a Vacumm Gauge to set her at the best - highest setting. Tom

Installed these new Manifolds this week, but the exhaust Manifold Paint tried to smoke - heat up - turn gold from silver in places when I warmed her up? I used Engine Paint good to 600 Degrees? Any Ideas?

Mark, My switch is on the Frame behind the Radiator on the Driver's side of my 1948"Crashler".(as our buddy Don C would say). Hope you fid it - its easy to replace. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

You Tube has tutorials on how to bleed brakes and repair them. In addition to this you can obtain a Service Manual for your car and read up on all the steps it takes to repair brakes. In this way you may become confident in your own ability to make the necessary repair. One more thing when working on brakes do one side at a time in order to use the opposite side as a snapshot guide as to the correct way to re-assemble everything as you go. The Northern Tools sells a self Brake Bleeder Vacumn/pump so you don't even need a buddy, wife or child to help you with that task anymore. STAND UP - its your turn to do what is needed and do it now! When the going gets tough the tough get going! Start with rebuilding Wheel Cylinders. Then Master if need be then bleed and fill them - check shoes along the way - GOOD LUCK! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Bob, My Patti could use a lesson here. Great Gal she is a keeper - the car too. Tom

Bill, When I get to that point a few nights off reading always helps. The best trouble shooting Book for your money is: Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles Volume 1 by Robert Notman. Contact him at: notmanr7@comcast.net and get a copy @ $30. When your done reading that you'll fell so confident you will go back to your Hobby with both Barrels. Good Luck. Tom Huntersville, NC

Gents, und Maidchen, I am aware that the markers only come on the the first position. I must have a grounding issue at the markers. By way of reference to a Gentleman that is an Outstanding Ebayer, his handle is "Pugrudy". He refunded my Switch that did not work on ebay with no questions asked. I would highly reccommend him on any ebay deal as it is getting tougher to find honest people in this world. In a word he is a First Class Citizen. I still have to correct my electrical problem (Marker lights in front don't work) however its nice to know honest people still conduct business these Days. Hats off to Pugrudy he is a Hail Thee Well Type of Fellow. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Well once again you fellows came through. The Knob and Collar came off as you'all described to a T. Unfortunately the switch I bought on ebay didn't work at all. I'm trying for a refund. Old one back in only my front Markers not working everything else is in order. Thanks Again! Tom

Rich, Thank You also! The Collar is slotted in two opposing places as you say. Thanks again for your help. Tom

Tim, Thank You its getting late so I'll try tomorrow when I'm rested and patient. I can't see that good anymore even with glasses. My son and I tried once with a small screw driver thinking there was a tiny set screw there with no sucess. I/we will try again tomorrow night Tom

BloodyKnuckles, I'll be in the Carolina Chrysler Club Section with my Green 1948 Chrysler. Please stop by and say hello. I believe we met at a NAPA one Saturday a year or so ago. You had a Killer Desoto with multiple Carbs very well done under your hood. See you Saturday - I hope! Tom Skinner

Gents, I need advice. How does one go about removing the Light Switch "Knob" off of the stem of a light switch? The bottom of the Knob has a small slot - that is all - I don't want to tear anything up. The 1942-1948 Chrysler Service Manual shows a special slotted wrench/tool to remove a Light Switch, it shows a slotted wrench/tool much like one one would use to remove an oxygen Sensor on a newer vehicle, however this is not held on by a nut in the back but some kind of "Collar" on the front/dash side. This is a 1948 Chrysler Royal. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. I don't want to force it off or ignorantly remove/damage it as the chrome and Knob are in great shape. I'll try to get back with a picture soon unless its something simple that I am missing/ignorant to. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I think I need a Drink. Whew, chill out people

I run bias, but what is important is getting the right size. By that I mean the width especially because the car will handle like new when the right size tire is on it. Run them wider than they're supposed to and they could rub the inner fenders as well. The right width is extremely important for proper alignment wear and handling. Tom

Fellows, A week or so back a Forum Member needed advice on Transmission Linkage adjustment, so I thought I would post this Booklet Page in hopes that he will see it. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

My book says Low Steady Vacumm at @15 or so is Late Ignition Timing. You don't mention a Timing Light. Set Points at .20, then set RPM's to @450-475 then Check Dwell @32-38then set Ignition Timing, then use a Vacumm Gauge in that order. Then everything should be as close as its going to get. Seek the highest setting with the Vacumm Gauge. Bring us back some results from these tests and we can look into other stuff.Remember loose wires are the bane to an ignition system. Clean and tighten all connections.Good Luck Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC PS. Just using a Vacumm Gauge to diagnose isn't going to isolate trouble unless the Hand is Fluctuating and you have a good Vacumm Gauge Interpretation Chart.

Tysouthwick, A great trouble shooting guide is available for @$30. It will get you started. Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles Volume 1 by Robert Notman. Contact notmanr@comcast.net If you can read you will start your car in no time flat. Best Damn Book I have ever owned. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Mike, I just installed that Tractor Supply Set - NICE - and only about $26. My Car Runs Great! Tom