Alshere59

When you add a file to the download area it is posted as an announcement by the site software automatically. A link to your actual post. http://p15-d24.com/files/file/68-standard-parts-list/

http://p15-d24.com/topic/32471-218-flathead-weight/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bweight Not sure what is meant by the OP by complete but this thread says 625 on a pallet. Hope it helps.

About 700+ lbs

Hey Don good luck on the trip. I had to do a bit of research to see what you were talking about. Maybe if you kept your posts in the same thread it would help.

Falconvan What sway bar did you use? Was it a jeep also? Al

Darren A suggestion that my or may not help sizing your fuses for unknown equipment. Run a meter in place of the actual the fuse for each circuit as you turn them on. You will know your amp readings as you go and can size your fuses based on that. Just set your meter for the maximum amp range you can have in case of direct shorts. Al

Hey Bruce If you want to stay 6 volt the Pertronix kit will eliminate the points just get the coil with the kit. Many are using them with no problems. Hope it helps. Al

Looking at your pic I think a conversion U joint may not help with the "wings" on yours. I have seen them but very seldom. Those on the truck side may have found an answer so it is worth a shot. I think your best bet may be to take it to someplace that does drive shafts and have them make a new one using the front of yours and the rear to match the jeep. I think it is a Spicer 1310 .

You may want to look at the driveshaft length as well. When I converted the rear in my 50 Plymouth to a jeep dana 35 I had to get a new driveshaft made. Not sure how the trucks are for pinion shaft length. If that is good to go the conversion u joints are available. May want to search on line for a part number,finding a good counter person at a parts store is getting rare. This may help. http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?hvtss~dedsec~partlookup~5-153X

Reading the posts I see two from Don to pull the plugs. Those are looking for fouled plugs due to "flooding/percolation"? If it is percolation then you may need to lower the float. A search will get you that info. True vapor lock. Maybe but on the long list of things to check IMHO. (After looking at fouled plugs from flooding.) Then carbs as mentionted. The as mentioned above electrical.

Interesting what the future holds. I worry at times where old cars will end up. Take a factory 2013 model. A hundred years from now how do you begin to restore it. The electronics etc. would be mind boggling. Our even our old 1950 cars. Wonder what the price will be then for parts. Most are sent to scrap. Oh well a few are preserving the past so be it.

Wow interesting idea. All the cars I have owned. No not possible way to many. The ones I would like to have back, probably my first car. 1965 Triumph Spitfire.

That's what I was afraid of. The part number didn't cross over to anything anyway. I knew there was some kind of special tool involved. Oh well I guess if it is on the internet it may not always right.

Jeff brings up a good way ahead and definitely the safest. The only thing I would add is to pull the freeze plugs and dig out the gunk that hides there, especially the lower ones. I did not find a lot by removing the head but that was my experience,others have. So from what I read it comes down to choice. If you want it drivable now then I would ask if your truck is over heating in the traditional way. By that I mean is it dumping antifreeze on the ground when it runs for an extended amount of time. From what I read that may not be the case. If not you may just need a thermostat and as stated before, these are not pressurized systems and they have to find there own level. So the reason the overflow tube was plugged may be because they did not know what to expect. Is this way ahead ideal? Not really you may or may not be delaying the work. However It may get you enough to drive it the rest of the summer or while you tackle a few other areas or even look at going deeper. Just throwing out another option. Which in this case means my 2 cents prior to inflation.

The grease can is a fixture in all of my siblings houses but I see the younger generations do not do it. There answer is it clogs there arteries. Funny but they for the most part eat the same items as me. They add oil for cooking. I guess the grease can/whatever is not sociably acceptable these days. So times are changing. For the better?? Not sure about that.

Well a quick search in Google found this. Not knowing what the original looked like before it failed this may or may not be close for dimensions. I typed in oval shifter boot. https://travelallparts.com/products/?view=product&product_id=14301

Wonder if you can put the magic smoke back in.

http://p15-d24.com/files/file/31-part-numbers-from-various-manufacturers/ Here is link to an old version that may help.

The fan bolts are not sheared from what I can see. The rear motor mounts "should" keep it in place. So have to agree with the op the radiator seems to have came back into the fan. Have you ever worked on the radiator? Was the lower radiator support loose maybe? Seems to have hit the top. Very strange.

Well my opinion. Fan no. Radiator maybe but very expensive. So what happened?

As others have said. Welcome to the forum. I will offer this. What size is the cable going to the battery and starter. Often they are replaced with a twelve volt version that will slow your starter as it cannot get enough current. Also bad connections, weak battery will have that affect. So it all needs to be checked. Just remember that in these are old beasts good connections are key for lights etc. Also they will not spin over like a twelve volt car regardless so keep that in mind but hard starting is not an issue normally. Here is a wiring diagram for your car for your use. A lot of info available just keep searching. http://p15-d24.com/files/file/49-vehicle-wiring-schematics-covering-1946-to-54/

So just curious. The 8 bolt flywheels for the 218 are the bolts D shaped as well?

The ship is different but the size should be the same. This fits a 15 inch rim. I have tried on 3 styles of dog dish caps they all fit the same wheel though. Not saying there isn't something else out there. 1. 7 1/4" 2. 13/32" 3. 9" (It looks less but it is 9" on the nose.) Also the profile from the inner measurement to the outside diameter is offset. Say 3/8's from the outside is flat (slightly concave to the inside of cap.) to a 70 degree angle for the remainder of the inner dimension. I have four all painted a bit different to see how they look.

No power as started and the setting will look like an upside down horse shoe. Then just touch the meter probes and read the display. By that I mean one lead to the terminal and the other to the base of the sender. Assuming it is a single wire sending unit. Basic example on the 6th pic down here. The meter should read the amount of resistance as the arm from the sender go's from top to bottom in its travel. So 10 ohms resistance is empty and 78 is full. http://www.etgiftstore.com/meters.asp

Jeff That sounds like it may work for numerous steering boxes as well. A lot like the "corn head grease" that has been discussed. Like this thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/28571-steering-box-debate/?hl=%2Bcorn+%2Bhead+%2Bgrease