Alshere59

Moderators
  • Content count

    618
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Alshere59 last won the day on August 6 2013

Alshere59 had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About Alshere59

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dayton, Ohio
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth 4 Door
    230 Engine running a Fenton Intake, R7 Overdrive, Disc brakes front and back. Just working on paint currently.

Recent Profile Visitors

640 profile views
  1. BK it will be a search for the right shock. When you relocate the length will be different for everyone since you mount the new top mount where ever. So th resting, travel and over all length will vary. try here,http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf . Harley this explains it. It helps with the ride and handling.
  2. Good point he says the block is stamped 1949. so not the original engine for a 53. Assuming it is a dodge engine it could be a 230. Either way a good price if you were close. I found this but without a engine. number who knows. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/dengines.html
  3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Flathead-6-230ci-/302257504997?hash=item465ff382e5:g:nScAAOSwWxNYztaW&vxp=mtr
  4. This help? http://p15-d24.com/search/?&q=master cylinder bracket&sortby=relevancy
  5. I had thought only the Edmunds were water heated unless you added a plate where the heat riser was... Post a picture if you can..
  6. Rockwood have you ever run a gps and compare it to your speedometer reading? That may help but you never know.
  7. So the 1" phenolic washers were only for heat? Also why the balance tube on the stock set? I have fenton dual carb intake and have seen it mentioned to run the same 1 inch spacers but I had thought it was for low speed torque. Now i need to find that discussion again..
  8. WESTACH has them listed just go to the single gauge menu. As mentioned before give them a call to see iy they have what you need. Model: 3CT53-2-6V Price: $143.65 Tachometer 5,000 RPM, 3" round, std pt or mag ign, 1-1/2 & 3 imp, ( 3 or 6 cyl ) 6 volt positive/negative ground. Model: 2CT33-6V Price: $124.65 Tachometer 3,500 RPM, 2" round, std pt ign, 3 imp/rev ( 6 cyl ), 6 volt, pos or neg grd Your second question you can decide after reading this. There are other threads as well just search the forums. Al
  9. You might want to consider using electrolysis. Just reverse the leads and it will eat the metal rim away from the glass. I cracked a lense prying it out when I converted mine, but the next one I just lifted the metal off. I just had it deep enough to cover the edge holding the glass. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp
  10. Don't forget to add relays to the light circuit as it will pull more amps with the new bulbs. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgb/headlight_relays_revb.pdf
  11. Knuckle I agree all things like engine temp etc is the same you get heat. Just looking at ducts etc for the different models to see how well they work is all.
  12. I have no idea if the duct is the same. What model number is on the heater? Care to share a picture of the under seat heater and does it have a model number?
  13. I have seen that parts were cardboard. Is this the only part? I had looked at that already and was wondering if a template was available I have a friend that should be able to do in sheet metal. A bit of insulation added I think. Interesting thank you for posting.