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Mark D

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Everything posted by Mark D

  1. Mark D

    Look what I found!

    Some of you are connected to me on Facebook, and have seen the pictures, but the back story I want to share here might be of interest. Last week I followed a lead that took me to a house about 19 miles northwest of me where I found another P15c Plymouth patiently waiting for resurrection. The car, a nice example of loving care over its 70 years of existence, is now in my garage and has become the second in my permanent collection. In the past 6 months I've bought two other P15's but that I was tempted to keep, but they've since taken a boat trip to Holland where my business partner will find decent homes for them. The newest acquisition is a convertible. I've yet to have the documentation pulled from the archive, but the car is believed to have been sold in Massachusetts originally. I am very anxious to see which dealer and to be able to see if the building still exists. The original owner was from Lexington Massachusetts, as shown on one of the 30 or so registration cards that came in the glove box. He was a Doctor of Physics and worked at a small institution known as the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Lincoln Labs. Some may recognize the name of this establishment as being home of a small project code named "Manhattan". While unconfirmed as of yet, there is an endowment left in the owners name and I have written to enquire if this learned individual was indeed connected to Atomic research going on at the time. This gentlemen kept the car for many years, and I suspect the last year of ownership was 1964 which is documented in a Midas Muffler lifetime warrantee also delivered with the car. The glove box was filled with maps of the eastern seaboard and a list of antique shops in each state. Researching his name I found that this man and his wife amassed one of the countries largest collections of Shaker furniture, a portion of which was sold after his death and another portion donated to the Smithsonian in DC. Further research has shown me that the man died at the ripe age of 94, leaving a sizeable chunk of money to create an endowment that reports assets over $1mil today. The second owner of the car is another local gentlemen who owned the car from 1964/5 up until 2001. This gentleman is still alive and well and living in Concord Massachusetts. He started a small business in the 1960's that has now grown into one of New England's largest Asphalt paving contractors and does a lot of private and highway paving work in the region. This man was the last to drive the car up until this past weekend. The car was last on the road (legally) in 1980. In the trunk of the car were many treasures, one of which I was told should always stay in the car. Under a small blanket were a dozen small flat stones about 2" in diameter. The second owner stated he and his wife collected these stones on their first date in Wells Beach Maine. Coincidently my family has owned a home in Wells Beach since 1919, which makes the tie to this car and the story a little sweeter. Amazingly enough the car has never been titled as they were not required or needed during the use of the car with its first two owners. I will likely title the car due to its value and estate reasons, and will become the first titled owner. The fella I bought the car from almost backed out of the deal, having owned the car since 2001, he had ideas of restoring it, but I am glad he left it alone. Among other items in the car were three spare hubcaps, a set of spare leaf spring shackles new in their NOS boxes, an original cloth bag for the bumper jack equipment, a wooden hand screwdriver which I believe may have been Plymouth OE, five brand new pairs of windshield wipers, a dozen spare vacuum radio tubes, and a couple boxes of spare fuses. A few sentences about the condition of the car as found, what I've done in the past week, and what I plan to do; General condition; - The car has not run since 1980 after the keys were lost, but the motor turned by hand so I knew there had to be some life in it. - The motor has a reman tag on it, a sticker on the firewall and yellow grease pencil writing on the firewall indicating it was replaced at 99,257 miles. The car now has 27,175 miles, so relatively new considering. Inspection thru the #6 cylinder port has proven the motor is a 230. (big smiles on my face when I learned that). - The body has two small issues to correct, but I likely won't touch them for several years as the patina is very appealing to me. One area on the front edge of the passenger door, and another paint separation issue surrounding the rear stop light on the trunk. The rest of the car is undercoated (rather thickly too) as well as under the hood. - Braking is terrible at the moment despite replacing the right front lower cylinder to make it yard drivable. Brake fluid is orange proving that what ever is in the tubes is long overdue for replacement. - The interior is trimmed rather smartly in - The top is original to the car and has a HUGE hole in it above the front seat. Mechanism goes up and down by hand easily. Vacuum cylinders are as of yet undiagnosed. - The car came with a factory supplied boot cover that is in decent shape. I will attempt to use this for the moment and in the future have a new one sewn up from its pattern. - The car also came with a rather unique and suspected non-oem option: Full Custom Tonneau Cockpit Cover. At first I said to myself what a shame, then I saw it on the car and fell in love with it. Getting her running; - Drained the 37 year old gas, boy does that stink... now to find a place to get rid of 10 gallons of it. - Replaced a very worn fan belt. - Swapped out the ignition switch for an OEM that I had in my stash. - Swapped out plugs, cables, coil. - Replaced both battery leads with heavy gauge OE style. - Added some MMO to each cylinder, placed the car in gear and rolled her back and forth a few times. - Installed a new 6V battery. - Disconnected the gas line to the carb and hand fed her some gasoline whereupon after several minutes of cranking she jumped to life. (and shot out an dust pan full of mouse crap, acorns and dirt from the muffler all over the garage floor.) She ran fine for an hour then died rather abruptly, whereupon several hours of playing whack-a-mole with intermittent doses of ATF has resulted in some less-sticky valves. Latest suggestion was to run some lead additive and to pull the gas tank and clean it. Plans to get her roadworthy; - Remove the gas tank, and thoroughly clean it. Looking for suggestions as to what might be best to use to clean the inside of the tank, noting that it has been wet with gas so residue is assumed to be fairly motile. - New brake cylinders, new brake lines, new MC, new brake switch, all four corners and in between. Curious as to whether or not I will need the miller brake tool (or reasonable facsimile) since I will be using the shoes/pads that are on the car as they are nearly in new condition. Any opinions here? - New top on order from Bill Hirsch to match the original factory colors; Black on tan, (my irish blood appreciates this a lot). Local trimmer has been selected and reports having done two 40's mopars in recent months. (they are on my hit list for names and addresses...) - Fluid changes - ALL of them, including oil, coolant, gear box, and rear end. During the winter months; - Interior betterments. Haven't decided if I want to rescue the interior or go new. I am partial to the patina, but if the cost would be too much to repair it may make sense to spend some dough on new correct color leather. The leather is in decent shape with no holes, but the cotton stitching has disintegrated on the front seat. - Passenger side vent wing window has a broken pivot point and the threaded post that attaches it to the doors A-pillar is sheared off. Both will need to be repaired. Glass will need to be removed from the frame before it can be corrected. Working on glass will be a first for me, and with such a rare part, I will have to work myself up to the challenge. - Overdrive swap. Later this year I will haul the sedan down to our house in North Carolina and park for a few years storage until we begin to full time in the winters down there. Before she goes down I will likely pull the OD and replace shelve it for installation in the convertible. And before I end this, a few notes of thanks for guidance in recent days; - Robin Weathersbee for his enthusiastic support and un-ending archives. - Greg G for giving me his phone number 7 or 8 years ago and allowing me to ask random questions in the middle of any given day or evening. - Young Ed is always there with his matter of fact - Bob Toft for sending me a dozen emails and a bunch of pictures of his car which convinced me to open the safe. I'll be a pest to all you for a while - bear with me. - lastly to my wife, to whom endured the "surprise look what I bought!" without sending a waffle iron flying in the air towards my head. And to her credit has instructed me to hurry up and get it done summer is here! AND said why would you consider selling Ruby?! AND doesn't understand why a 70 year old car is so special but allows me to spend every waking non-wage earning hour with it.
  2. Mark D

    Look what I found!

    Been a while since I updated this thread. Made another milestone this past weekend and installed my new leather interior. Leather came from a Garrett Leather in NY, and at $9/sf it was certainly and investment. Took five hides to cover everything and there were still some areas that I chose to cover in Vinyl such as the rear seat side bolsters and rear of the front seat. New door cards and kick panels were sourced from a company called remautoinc.com. They were advertised as made to OE measurements, but the door cards were too short and the kick panels needed to be cut down to fit. Would do those again from scratch if I was not rushed to get this part of her refresh done. Next up new black wall tires, shocks x4, new rear spring bushings, and front sway bar bushings to tighten her roll in corners. Custom made carpet will be completed next week. After that a new parade boot and Tonneau.
  3. Mark D

    Vacuum advance enlightenment

    I knew this would be something that is a uniquely American product. So I included the wiki photo.
  4. Mark D

    Vacuum advance enlightenment

    Another use for NEATS foot oil. The valves inside the wiper motor are leather. I’ve restored two motors with this product.
  5. Mark D

    Vacuum advance enlightenment

    I thought at first you might be referring to one of these, but it seems you’ve got the answer. This is a trico vacuum booster. Used to supplement and correct for poor vacuum conditions. I’ve got this recently in one of the p15’s I bought and have started the install in my p15 conv to see if it will assist the top operation. Ps nice speaking with you this morning!
  6. Mark D

    Top boot for a 1949 Plymouth convertible

    I’m afraid there is no source selling these Tom. They must be sewn up by a local upholsterer due to the low demand. As for suppliers for your top, Hirsch Auto Tops should be your only call. I’ve gone through the sourcing exercises for my car recently and they are 100% above all the rest. If you need help ordering I can help. -Mark
  7. Mark D

    NAPA Signal Flasher

    Love to know the answer to this myself. I’ve had 2-3 new ones do the same.
  8. Mark D

    Easy things are getting difficult

    Just slap this on the bumper and drive... ”did you see those Plymouth’s take off??!!!”
  9. Mark D

    P15 convertible counterbalance springs

    Both my p15’s have the same brake spring set up as yours greg. But the convertible top springs are coiled from a heavier wire.
  10. Mark D

    P15 convertible counterbalance springs

    Bob, i had my trimmer sew up replacements for the springs on my convertible last fall when the new top went on. I suspect also this was an a simple solution to eliminate road vibration and harmonics. This top was not meant to be hand operated, and I don’t believe the designers had hand operation in mind as the considered all the parts of the system involved. This top gold design was very ingenious. The simple physics of the fold are really ingenious. Aided by the springs, the vacuum assemblies begin the pull until they reach a fulcrum point where the spring tension is removed and the vacuum cylinders snug the top down. A little overlooked, one thing that is important to call attention to is the actuator “switch”. Not only does the switch open one side of the vacuum circuit for action, but it also relieves pressure on the other side of the cylinder. I am still amazed to watch that 71 year old tech do its job so well.
  11. Mark D

    Anybody going to POC meet

    Me! Flights and hotels booked. See you in motor city!
  12. Mark D

    1946 Plymouth interior

    Looks like a standard “Deluxe” interior.
  13. Mark D

    Choke Cable Clamp

    I clicked the xxx.tif and it revealed a carb photo that has the choke cable connected on the drivers side of the carb. Typically it’s the other side. I suspect this is a later model carb that would have been set up with a sisson automatic armature. Correct model carb for a p15 would be D6G2.
  14. Wondering if anyone’s attempted to repair the pivot stud on a vent wing. This is the passenger side of my convertible, arrived to me in this condition. How do I get the glass out of the frame? Once it’s out it appears I’ve got a couple of rivers to drill and then I can get this welded. Interested in hearing from the crowd on this one.
  15. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    i bought two on eBay, happy to sell you my spare at the cost I paid plus postage. Send me an email mark@rdusaclassics.com and we can coordinate.
  16. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    And then this happened. All points bulletin out for this top hinge pivot. Guessing the threaded post was cracked as when I reinstalled the nut it took no effort with a small wrench to spin it off. Posted on the Facebook POC page, and had one kind gent respond that he could make me one, but if someone has a stash, I’m in the market for buying one as I need to get this back in place. By the way I found a form of butyl silicone tape at Home Depot. Used to make quick repairs to water pipes it seals in the wet. Somewhat of a modern friction tape, I used the small roll to put on 4 layers. It conformed to the edge of the glass easily and the tape was easy to work with. A deadblow hammer made reseating the glass fairly quick.
  17. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    Good advice. Thanks. Now where do I get butyl tape?
  18. Mark D

    Radio fuse on D-24

    The fuse is the old glass tube style, and as Tim stated would be on the power lead. Original style would be steel jacketed, about 5/16” in diameter and 1-1/2” long.
  19. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    For future reference, this is an exact fit. And I will also note that the left and right part numbers turn out to be the exact same part. I ordered both to see what the difference would be. Spot welds on these are not great, hoping they hold on for my life time. Today I will drill out the old top flange, clean the frame and install the new post. Wondering if my rivet gun will work for this.
  20. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    Bought the closest match from eBay. Labeled for dodge truck but looks darn close or at least modifiable. Thanks Dave, hadn’t seen these on ebay before.
  21. Mark D

    Rare sedan

    Late thirties LaSalle.
  22. Mark D

    Vent wing pivot stud repair

    So I grabbed a small crew driver and pried at the edge, noticed it moved to my surprise... the butyl tape is old and was very brittle so I immersed it in hot tap water and left it for 30 minutes. Two more attempts with the screw driver and some muscle and it came out fairly easily. Cleaned up the trim with some Brillo and soap, then cleaned the old butyl tape from the glass. The slanted porting of the glass is relieved to allow for the top hinge post to seat inside the chrome frame. You’ll notice that the butyl tape did not prevent the water from getting into the frame over the years and it has attacked he spot weld which gave way at some point in the past.I’m gonna call around to see if a local machine shop can machine up a single piece replacement for me.
  23. Mark D

    Electronics wizard needed...

    I'm to blame, I revived the thread seeking details of the latching relays used. Mission accomplished, will see one in the mail when I get home.
  24. Mark D

    Electronics wizard needed...

    Robin - how does one tell if these are a latching type relay?
  25. Mark D

    Electronics wizard needed...

    Appreciate the extra thoughts here. Will read more tonight when I am back in the hotel room. Been in Sydney for the past week on business, so my day is just starting. Mark
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