optimusprime8

I got a 2000 jeep grand cherokee rear end on Craigslist for $275. Unfortunately it is the 5 x5 bolt pattern, so I will have to figure something out with the front 5 x 4.5. I'm thinking when I do the disc conversion on the front I can easily swap it to 5 x 5. I found a set of 4 steel wheels 5 x5 at the swap meet for $100. Hopefully they will work for fitment purposes. The yoke mounting on the jeep rear says spicer on it, it looks the same as my stock one, but I haven't tried to fit it yet. I am currently in the process of grinding off all the old jeep mounts. Next weekend I will test fitment, time permitting.

Tony, Is this the spring perch you were talking about at Northern Tool? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330549_200330549 Or is it one like this? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200514160_200514160 Looks like we don't have Northern Tool in California but I can order the stuff online.

Do you need to have the truck or could I bring both rear ends to you and you could make the new one match the old one? I could come up to an event at Willow Springs and maybe you could do it then. If you need the whole truck, it's probably too far, unless I put it all back together so I could get it on a trailer.

I was thinking I could take the old rear end and the new rear end to a shop and they could use the old one as a template, then everything would line up. Is this not feasible? Maybe I can cut off all the junk from the Jeep rear end with a grinder, then install it and mark where the new mounts will be with a paint pen or something.

I acquired a Jeep Cherokee rear end and would like to put it in my grandpa's Dodge truck. I am looking for a custom fabrication shop that can cut off all the old mounts on the Jeep Cherokee rear and weld the old Dodge mounts on it. The only guy I found so far wants the whole rear end disassembled, but I don't think this is necessary. The Dodge leaf spring mounts are very small and could probably be welded without creating much heat. Does anyone know a shop that would be willing to do this in the LA or OC area? I am in Long Beach, the closer the better. I would buy a welder and do it myself, but that would involve rewiring my house for 220 and learning how to weld. For this small project, I would rather just pay someone to do it, but I do want it to be safe.

Where did you get the tach? Who restored them and how much was it?

What holds the drum on? The wheel and the lugnuts? Doesn't there need to be some way to secure the drum to the hub?

Where did you get your gauges restored? How much was it?

Thanks for the tips guys. Looks like I will try to get it running and see what happens.

I did my compressions test and the results are: 1-85 2-85 3-85 4-90 5-80 6-85 The specs say it should be 120-150 with no greater than 10 psi difference between cylinders. I'm wondering if maybe my compression tester is not correct or since the engine has been sitting so long (more than 20 years) it would raise the compression numbers up a little if I got it running and warmed up. The engine was rebuilt prior to being parked 20 years ago, and probably driven less than 50 miles before getting parked. I'm trying to determine whether I should chuck this motor and put something else in it or rebuild the carb, put in a new radiator, and give it a tune up and drive it as-is.