Go Fleiter

both are perfect plans to retire! I can´t move since 1982, because of a stationary model railroad. So, I must make do with 3 Garage places 3 mintutes in bicicle from my house plus this summer awning in my yard as shop and for the cats. If interested in my friends Egon and mine model-RR, here is the index of my postings: https://www.drehscheibe-online.de/foren/read.php?10,6607746,6607803#msg-6607803 Here is a choice: I love 50ie´s cars! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

beautiful posting! Enjoy!!

Hallo For now I presented Your worthy hints to my mechanic. I will see. Thank You all !! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

While repairing a flat tire, my mechanic found remnants of a disintegrated rubber (?) part, of which I know neither the name nor the appearance. It is different from this Valve Stem Cover (see foto) made of metal. I guess it was supposed to be put over the valve of the tire tube and pushed through the rim with it. It should probably prevent migration of the tube. My other wheels don´t have this part but the metal variety only. Any hints?? Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

The breaker contacts I had bought before ~2007 failed each after ca. 1000 km. I helped me buying original Bosch breakers for Citroen (nothing other available) and transplanted the very contacts to the Plymouth points. It worked well, but I didn´t trust my work on the long term and didn´t want to repeat the transplant again. I have a pertronix unit since than: no more problems with ignition. They made me two 6V neg GND units, and sure, one is in the trunk!

i had the same problem resolved and posted here 1 or 2 years ago. It was tricky! With my holiday equipment I can't search for it now.

maybe You should test the starter directly: 1. connect the clamp of a heavy jump cable to the starter's terminal. 2. Be sure to have the transmission in idle! 3. Touch the active battery pole ( "minus" IF POS. GROUNDED!) with the other clamp of the same cable and see wether it spins or not. 4. if not: disconnect that clamp from the batt. 5. use the second cable/ clamp combo to give direct ground from batt passive GND pole to starter (Connect to a cleaned nut or bolt) 6. touch the active batt pole again. Batt voltage may fall under 5,5 V and when released rise again to 6,4 So You know if starter is ok or not. 7. Starter SOL must click when activated. if not: try direct connection from active batt pole to SOL activating terminal (can't search for its correct name here with holiday equipment) Beware: even if reading 6V at the SOL outlet to the starter when unloaded, its contacts (or old Cable connections to starter or batt) may not let pass 40-60 Amps when loaded. Next would be the switch and its cable connections... Good luck! Greetings from Portofino! Go

Thanks all, so it seems, that the GEN must be fixed thightly at the bottom too!

Hello all! The alternator at the bottom sits in its bracket (#52) with 2 lower eyes (red "x") and a rod. On the front top it has an upper single eye ("Y") for the screw that provides proper V-belt tension in the tensioner strap (#50) slot. I cannot find the lower rod itself in the Parts book or the Service manual, nor a description of the mounting procedure. Question: I have received conflicting advice how to mount the Generator. Which should I follow? a) to fix the generator thightly on its top slot strap AND on the bottom (threaded rod is suficient) to its bracket (very difficult to put and fasten the nuts!). b) to fix the generator ONLY on its top slot strap thightly, leaving it FREE at the bottom on a smooth rod, (securing the plain rod only itself with nuts on one end or both). How was it originally? Thanks for Your help! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

I use a 12 V fuel pump with 6 V (years ago I couldn´t find a 6V one) parallel to the mechanical one. To only prime, fighting vapor lock, it´s power is sufficient. 6V may not be sufficient to substitute a failure of the mechanical, however.

strange to me, Keith, that You have so many bad experiences with Pertronix! As suitable for my P23, I use a 6V minus grounded unit since 2007 and 25 000 mls without any problem. I can recommend it strongly, if not the originality is first - but the driving! The original setup failed constantly because of inferior quality of the point contacts. I even have a spare unit in the trunk. Above all, since 23 years starter motor, ignition coil and (since using it,) the pertronix too gets 12 V from two 6V batteries in series while starting. I never tried how much Voltage the 6V Pertronix would stand, but liberately estimated, I didn´t want to go over 8V. So, again while starting, a V limitation circuit keeps the Pertronix at 8V. Yes, and a spare circuit is on board too... I never needed the spare units, but other users seem not to have such luck. btw.: my car is not presented to be judged for originality, I just drive it for the fun. And I love not to be blocked by trivialities of old technology Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

Thanks for all these very helpful informations!

Porosity is the key word! Maybe my bearings are not oilites! I have 3 unused NOS, they have a completely homogen surface like polished and do not seem to provide the slightest permeability. They seem to be far away from beeing able to hold any, not 20% of oil. Thanks so far, anyhow.

Bob, this is my actual problem (generator) Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

Hallo, I had reported from our Italy trip here (link, scroll down): the generator had failed loading and had developed sporadic bearing noises. After the car had been towed back home, I initially only had time to install a replacement generator and could only now look for the defective one. The Oilite bearing at the rear end was completely gone, the shaft was flapping in the back plate and showed strong signs of overheating. The rear cover does have an oil pocket with channel (red/white in photo) to the bearing seat, but the bronze bearing has no hole from the channel to the shaft. I also haven't found any indication anywhere that you should drill a hole after assembly. I assume that none was drilled when refurbishing the generator either. Question: Does the bronze bearing need to be perforated from the oil cup after assembly? The bearing material seems to me to be much too compact to allow oil to seep through. Although the bearing noise had only been intermittent, I fear that the rotor may have damaged the windings. I have not been able to see this properly yet. In any case, he tore off the insulating tape wrapped around some of the wires (see foto in 8 o'clock position). Next I will then have to look at the oil lite bearing of the spare generator so that its shaft does not suffer oil starvation too! Thanks for help! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

very nicely restored engine! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

My stock regulators can be adjusted by us! I made me a tool, right angled, with a slot to fit over the spring´s hook. I isolated with shrink tube because I use it with engine running under tension. Regulator should give ca. 7.8 V cold and if hot after 15 minutes (with cover!) should still read > 7 V. Procedure is well described in the service manual. Greetings! Go

The most valuable addition to my P23 is a voltmeter! You may attach it temporarly because of the originality of Your car. It may show You additional information to the Ammeter measurements. When adding high beam lights it shows if generator and regulator and battery still keep 6,5- 7 V. Freshly wired or not, check for loose connection! Than continue disconnecting one after the other electrical appliances. Good luck! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

Some years ago I checked up a Mazda electric steering unit, which would have done it in my P23. They cut under the dash and need 12 V. I bought a spare steering column +shift linkage and put a second generator (12V) under the original one (6V) and wired all, fuses etc. inclusive. Then, they changed regulations here: power steering was no longer accepted for "H" (historic) licence. Too far from original, not safety relevant (disc brakes are allowed!)... We have access bans into cities here for high emission cars. So, living in one of these cities, I preferred to keep the "H"- Licence plates :)) and let the steering untouched. A specialised dutch firm estimated 4000 € for the complete conversion. Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

"old Ed" (I suppose) has a real beauty! Very straight sheet metal, immaculate paint, accurate trims and very nicely maintained! It rides a bit higher than mine- i like that too! Mine has a more used look, which I liked very much. I could not even bring myself to complete repaint when the hood and left fenders had to be done after an accident. So, I have a right half in faded, ancient look and part of the left side highgloss. This combination I like much less. Maybe, in a couple of years I get so far as to decide for a repaint. The appearance of your father's car is seductive1 Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

well, I´m not yet sure if it was really the alternator´s failure. I had a couple of problems earlier this year: I changed the ignition lock, one main disconnect switch, one battery and one day I found a broken 150 A fuse (a fork lift part). I had suspected latter, but it showed no damage! But when I dismatled the holder, the fuse was broken directly hidden under tit´s fixing bolt (red scissors). I did check the function several times and current was passing. Sometimes, starter could draw too much A and died. A moment later current was back, strong enough. When I moved the cables, I could interrupt or close the circuit. Really mean! So, sorry, I don´t want to discredit the alternator in public until I could check it over. Greetings! Go

This 3rd of September, we took the Plymouth again for 2 weeks in Italy. I had put a new alternator this spring to replace a shot generator, but it but unfortunately failed in August too. So I had to put a working spare generator which was on hand. Usually, I carry all my spare parts behind the spare wheel, but now I had no time to repair the shot one. We don´t have the autotrain/ sleeping car choice anymore, in Germany they cancelled the whole service! Because of this, we planned to drive the whole trip by car and to stay overnight on both ways. First trip was 400 mls to beautiful Neuschwanstein (castle looms over the hood!). Next morning we continued through Austria 225 mls to Lake Garda/ Italy. We we met traffic jam everywhere. The worse was on the Autobahn incline from Innsbruck up to Brennero in full summer heat. After 1 1/2 hour of stop and go the poor Plymouth´s cluch began to overheat- which forced me to take the next available exit to ÖAMTC (= austrian AAA) grounds. There, I let the car cool down and asked for a connection off the Autobahn to continue on the old Brenner country road. There was none, they told me. Downhill back to Innsbruck to the next exit was the same jam. In the meantime, however, my wife had found an alternative on her cell phone. But stupidly this earth and gravel path seemed only to lead to a quarry and was forbidden for cars. We took it anyway, trusting the cell phone, hoping to reach the old Brenner road. At the Brenner- railroad site we met a group of workers and asked if we would be able to continue. They did not recommend because of a very heavy grade down and a disastrous condition of the road. I dared and made it, but it was extremely steep and the passage under the railroad line absolutely tight. My brave wife had turned quite pale and was happy when we reached our hotel in Gargnano! We had 2 beautiful problemless weeks making 700 mls visiting Brescia, Torino and a lot of small Piemonte towns. (RR crossing near Acqui Terme) (our stylish Samsonites in a stylish Hotel!) (Agliano -Villa Fontana: Piemonte is vine, truffles and hazelnuts!) (near Agliano Terme) Then, we started to the return trip to have 2 nights at Freiburg. At the Milan tollgate again we suffered 1 ½ hour of stop and go in full heat. Now I noticed that the battery was no longer being charged. I changed the voltage regulator - but obviously it was not the culprit. Well, and as I had mentioned before, this time I didn´t have a spare generator on board! Nevertheless, we tried to reach Freiburg, still 250 mls away. We only used parking lights in the numerous tunnels in Switzerland (all one way only and speed restricted) and used as little electricity as possible except for the ignition. Above all, the generator developed an ugly bearing noise. For the last 30 mls in darkness lo beam lights were needed. With 6,6 V at Milan, voltage dropped to 5,9 V when arriving at the Hotel´s garage in Freiburg. That drive was no pleasure! The next morning the ADAC (= german AAA) picked up the car - I would have risked a day drive 300 mls to Düssseldorf with freshly (Hotel-) charged battery, but I did not want to experience the generator bearing´s falilure! We had a beautiful day in Freiburg. The next day, I got a free rental car for the trip home from the ADAC. As I had no hurry they brought The Plymouth to my mechanic in Essen 4 weeks later. In the meantime, I had repaired the other gererator and he could exchange them. Now, the car is ok in his own garage. My wife don´t want to go next summer to hot Italy in Plymouth! Maybe we go to my sister in colder and traffic jam free Helsingborg/ Sweden! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go (red: travel 2022. The dots are our older Plymouth holidays). Places visited: Düsseldorf: yellow dot red: travel 2022. The dots are our older Plymouth holidays 1 Neuschwanstein 2 Brennero 3 Gargnano 4 Brescia 5 Agliano Terme 6 Nizza Monferrato 7 Acqui Terme 8 Alba 9 Asti 10 Torino 11 Bra 16 Freiburg

for us Europeans ... Cow Catcher ? ?

I got my redone crankshaft back in the trunk of a Taxi car. 25 mls were enough to distort the shaft: 0,0004 inches off center. I brought it back to the shop on the back seat of my car and one of the old mechanics was able to get it aligned perfectly with a dozen hits on strategic points with his leather protected chisel and hammer. So, You must find a way to send it excluding the risc of getting it back out of alignment. The machine shops should have tried out safe methods! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

beautiful !!