hemsbydodge

hi folks, well back again. one thing with this old car is that it never ceases to keep me busy, when i thought i had fixed the cooling problem after re-fitting the themostat and removing the blank in the by-pass, it still ran hotter than i would have expected, about 185-190 f even with the new larger re-cored rad?question, if the water distribution tube is defective/blocked ,does this cause the engine to run hotter, espicially the head. using a infra red temp gauge the head always runs hotter than the main block, espically at the rear. the water pump has a re-ferb kit fitted ,so the old paddle impeller is replaced, was this a good idea. secondly, yes i did know that the rochester carb does not have the two switches fitted to control the gearbox, but once you get use to it, it works fine. . but as i said the main thing it to find why it run hot, and heat up so quickly, within about a mile/tow and its up to temperature, thanks for your help, shaun

hi folks, thanks for the help and relies. I have now had the radiator re-cored, and the heating question has been answered, it was blocked/lime scaled up and now it runs colder than ever,so i can replace the themostat and remove the blank on the bypass . At present i now have the vehicle running about the best i will get it ,so time to leave along, only one job is the replace the master cylinder with a two stage one, to make the brakes a little better, thanks ,shaun

hi, thanks for the posting, i was woundering if this could cause the engine to heat up quicker, i will either plug the by-pass or fit the thermostat, thanks, shaun

Hello everyone, I need a little advise about the 47 desoto coupe that i have now had on the road over here in england for the last few months. I have to omit that the old car drives better than i though it was going and the brakes are also pretty good of a car of its age. Running temperature, when i first put it on the road, it was heat up quickly from cold, even with the thermostat removed. After a head gasket change, head planed, and the valve re-faced and seat cut this helped. Also ,the block was flushed and pressured washed out, and plenty of lime scale was removed.So ,now it runs cooler, but do these engine warm up quickly from cold even with the thermostat removed, it runs at about 160 f when under way, it does drop slightly after a while as well, but it rises when the car is idling, for a few minutes, only to a about 170 F,is this about normal?? Secondly, some time ago i was given a mid 50 s chrysler rear axle from a slant six car, its ratio is 3 .72 could i fit the whole axle casing on the desoto, or could i just change the different assemble as a unit ,to save work? Thirdly, i have been running a different carb, a rochester one from a chevrolet 235, as it has a manual chock and is a reliable carb as well, the car returns about 17 mpg (uk gallons)or 20 mpg (us gallon) is this about correct? cruising about 50 ish thanks for your help, shaun

Just read the thread on m6 problems, my desoto has exaxtly the same fault, again it is up on axle stands, and i cannot get it to upshift. The previous owner had fitted a light to indicate if it was in low or high, and this light does indicate that the relay is sending the signal to upshift At idle the generator is only producing a few volts, this rapidily raise to about 10 volts with a increase in throttle position, this then trips the relay, and a voltage is senced at the soliniod as just a blip on the digital meter, but it does not seem the change up. I have change the transmission oil ,but i was advised to use 90 w oil ,by roberts motors, which is correct? I have also checked the old cloth wiring for defects, no grounds/broken wires could be found either. thanks shaun

Hello, well found the answer to my question, it would appear that when the car was new, it was registered on the engine number, not the chassis number, I have some old titles with the car, and they are all the same number, engine number instead of the chassis one, will have to make a number chassis plate to match, as the local registation people(DVLA to use) are very strict on numbers over here, thanks, shaun

hello, could someone tell me where the chassis number is located on my 1947 desoto coupe, ive found the serial number and the build code plate. thanks,shaun

At last, all the tin cancer has finally left the vehicle, i cut it out today and replaced it with nice new steel .1.2 mm cold rolled steel. so now i can finish off the old car and get it on the road! heres a few pictures shaun

[attach]32391[/attach] [attach]32392[/attach] [attach]32393[/attach] [attach]32394[/attach] [attach]32395[/attach] Hi everyone, well at last i found a way to upload pictures, with help from moparal.As you can now see, the old desoto from washington state had a little tin cancer, but now all that is a thing of the past, all to be recycled to the scrap bin. so ,now, i only have to alter the wiring to to 12 volt ,and a few other item to get it on the road. looking forward to that, regards, shaun

hi mopar al, i would love to post pictures, be cannot find a way to load them prehaps can you help me to do them, regards, shaun

seasonal greeting to everyone, , well at last i have finished the car floor replacement, i have painted it today, and can start refitting all the interior now ,to get it out of the way. i still have a few welding jobs to do, but only about two hours now, then the wiring to re-do to suit 12 volt, and on the road, regards, shaun will try to get pics added or check out my pics

hi folks, well the final cutting out of the tin cancer has been done, so now its only one direction ,forwards, should have all of it finished within two weeks, then just the wiring/12 volt converstion ,and then ready to hit the cold east coast winter, will be great, regards, shaun i have some pictures on the member galley ,so look there,

Hi folks, just a few details on this car, I think the original owner, or at least for a long while was ,gunner wold, mead, wastington state, anyone know hi? various service stickers on the door shuts, all the same place, bill brown, sprague ave,spokane, wa. So far, the drivers side has had the inner and outer sill replaced, welded up as well, the whole length was replaced, about 6 ft of it.Now started on the passenger side, should be done within the next week,. With regard to the gearbox, it has to be removed as the thrust bearing in very noisy, and also the fliud flywheel is seized ,i do have a spare, to replace it with. Does anyone know if a gear from a 1941 dodge ,(fluidfly model) will fit and replace the m6 box, i know the prop my be short and the transmission brake is a smaller unit? shaun

hi everybody, well here goes, my project 1947 desoto custom coupe is now well underway to being re-commissioned to be used on the road in england after buying it from washington state, the owner was a mr gunner wold, anyone heard of him, it seems he had it a long while and looked after it was well. After getting it running, and all the brakes sorted out, it was time to sort out what at first sight loked a some amount of tin cancer, this has now turned out to be a trunk floor replacement, done, all the outer edge(10inches each side)of the car floor the whole lenght needs replacement, both inner and outer body sills(english term) to be replaced,drivers side done.I have so far made all the parts, inner /outer sills, truck floor pan, and lower crossmember. Well just tried to add pictures ,but cannot do it yet, i will sort this1 Before the floor is replaced, the gearbox with be replaced ,as the car is just to heavy on gas to us over here, at $7.50 per u.s gallon, it too much.So i am going to fit a five speed box from some easy to get, i.e ford transit, or leyland lt77 box, just got to sort out the transmission brake, or just make it as normal,that should keep me out of the pub ,anyway. hope this little project interests some of you, next project is a 1941 dodge three window coupe, rare car anywhere, regards, shaun