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Labrauer

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Everything posted by Labrauer

  1. Labrauer

    Another Brake Question

    I have put a new master cylinder on the 48 Plymouth and benched bled the master cylinder. Bled the brakes cylinders and now I have a problem. On the two front wheels I can roll the wheel with my hand backwards but when I try and roll the wheel frontwards I can't get it to move backwards yes forward no. I have checked the drums for clearance on the brake shoes and they seem to be fine. This all seems to have happened after I bled the brakes. The back wheels are fine moving both ways. Anyone out there know what's up with this. Thanks in advance, Larry
  2. Labrauer

    Another Brake Question

    Hey guys I have been thinking about the disc brake conversion on the 48 P15 and have read here and other places that it is pretty easy if you chose the right kit. When it comes to brakes I am a little scared of making a mistake all I need is to going down the road and the car doesn't stop. I have read about the master cylinder changes you have to do and then others say they put a dual master on after doing the change. All this talk is some kind of Greek to me because I just don't understand how a dual master is or how it would mount up. Any pointers out there that can shed some light with pictures.
  3. Labrauer

    Another Brake Question

    Hi guys I took the drums off the front and took the brakes off. I looked at them and found on one side the cylinders were leaking making the shoes grab in the forward movement. I have ordered some front cylinders from Napa at $25.00 a piece. I also had the drums turned today so they are nice and round. Just as soon as the order comes in I will put back together and see if they will work as they should. Shouldn't be no reason why they shouldn't after this. One comment was to change to disc brakes and I have read about them but I don't under stand what you have to do to the master cylinder and what you have to take out. Can anyone in-lite me on this procedure.
  4. Labrauer

    Another Brake Question

    Not sure but I will have a check
  5. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    I have got the 48 Plymouth coupe ready to go on the road again but I have one problem. The car is still on the jack stands and I have run it idling and with the throttle cable pulled out running. It runs great at this stage of the game but when I go through the gears and in high (3rd) revved it up to around 45 mph the engine starts to spud-er and back fire and seems to loose power. I have checked the timing and it is TDC. Put the timing light on it and revved it up to see if the vacuum advance is working and it is. Everything seems to run great until I get up to the speed of 45 and then all heck breaks loose. Checked the compression and it is great on all cylinders. Put new spark plugs in. Check the gap on the points several times and they are right. Changed the points and condenser in the distributor checked the wires inside the distributor all looks to be fine. The car has been changed over to 12 volts with a new 12 volt coil and also everything in the distributor 12 volt. I just don't understand what's the problem or how to fix it. Any suggestions or advice please. As always thanks in advance, Larry
  6. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Hey Don I did tell what fixed the problem in my post # 33. I guessed you missed it but you were the one that nailed it on the head. There was the metal spring still in the points box and when I installed it the car ran fine at 60 mph and above. Thanks
  7. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Thanks for all the great information on my problem it is fixed and running good. We have a great group of people here on the forum.
  8. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Well guys I have finally gotten to look at the Plymouth tonight after getting the wife all settled in. She came home yesterday and seems to be doing okay just hurting a lot and taking some pain pills for release of pain. What a crazy weekend and week this has been. Now to the Plymouth. I think we have a winner with Don"s commit on the points bouncing. I took the distributor out once more and also the points. It's much easier for me that way if I take it out. I look in the box the points came in and there was another clip spring in the box. I connected it to the points behind the copper tab and put back together. Started the car making sure the timing was at TDC once again. Stepped inside went through all the gears all the way up to 60 mph and no spit, spud-er, and no backfire at all. The car ran just fine up on the jack stands now when I get the R10 wired up and get it back on the ground we'll see if I get the same results as tonight. I know a lot of you don't like a 12 volt conversion done on these old 6 volt cars but I tell you I am very pleased with how easy the car starts now. I am amassed it seems it starts in less than one revolution of the engine. Anyway I appreciate all the replies and all the help as always. Thanks, Larry
  9. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Well guys it will be a few days before I can get to the car now because I had to put the wife in the hospital Monday morning with possibly of surgery so please bear with me and I'll get back on this as soon as possible. Thanks for all the replies and I'll let you know how it goes
  10. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Don what I am saying is the car was converted over to 12 volts from the 6 volts so I got a 12 volt coil, condenser and points.
  11. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    Well guys this is all great advice. I have not checked the timing when this happens. I will do so as soon as I get back in town Monday. I have to leave town in about one hour so it will be Monday or Tuesday before I can report back. I take all of your commits and check each one I'm sure someone hit the nail on the head. Thanks a lot, Larry
  12. Labrauer

    Got a Problem Need Advice

    No I am not sure it isn't a carburation problem. I would think that if it runs fine until I run it through the gears it wouldn't be that but maybe I just don't know. I guess that could be the problem I am just wondering because the carb came off the old engine and it was doing fine although it has set on the shelf for about 6 months before reinstalling.
  13. I am thinking on changing the points out for the pentronix electronic ignition system but have heard different stories on using with the R 10 overdrive unit. I have heard the interrupt service for the overdrive will not kill the engine for a millisecond for the shift. My car is now 12 volt negative ground and is a 48 Plymouth Flathead 218 if that will help and the distributor number is IAT-4011 #1343554. I know many of you have had experience with this type of setup so I'm here to get some reliable information. Will this setup work? Is there any modification I have to do? By chance do anyone know what part numbers I need to order? And last is there a such a thing as a 12 volt condenser and a 12 volt set of points available? As always thanks in advance, Larry
  14. I purchased a wiring harness from Kwik wiring and put it in my 48 Plymouth but now I can't get any power to anything on the car. My car is 6 volt positive ground and I have also added a single wire 6 volt alternator with a built in regulator. I called the alternator guys and they told me how to wire it up by passing the old regulator on the car. The # 15 red 10 Ga. wire runs from the fuse panel to the alternator battery lug on the alternator. The #16 10Ga. wire runs from the fuse panel to the starter battery lug on my starter solenoid with a Maxi fuse installed on this wire. My battery cables from the battery are hooked up with the positive to the engine block and negative to the other side of the solenoid opposite of the starter lug. There is a third lug on the solenoid in the center that nothing is hooked up to and I don't know if anything goes there or not. I've got 6.4 amps in the battery so I know it's good. I have no power to the ignition switch nor to any of the fuses on the fuse box with the key on and flipping the switch on the fuse box that kills the power to the coil. Can anyone think of a reason I am not getting power? I have also e-mailed kwik wiring for some answer. If no response tomorrow I will call them on the phone. Sincerely, Larry Brauer
  15. Labrauer

    Fuel lines

    Heck I went down to my local parts shop and just got some 5/16" brake lines in different lengths they have male fittings on each end. Bought a couple of female brass cuplers and ran that from the tank all the way to the fuel pump on the engine. Worked fine for years.
  16. Labrauer

    Antifreeze

    Norm I once had an engine (218) that all three spark plug holes got full of water after filling the radiator and starting the engine. Didn't see the water until I started the engine. The gasket under the thermostat housing was leaking. I tried to tighten the bolts down but got to the point that I thought I was going to break them off. Still was leaking so I took the housing off installed a new gasket but this time I put some permertex gasket sealer on top and bottom of the gasket and never had a leak since. If that isn't your case I would look at a leaking radiator upper hose or the radiator it self. Check to see it the radiator cap has the gasket on it also.
  17. Labrauer

    Fulton visor installation

    The video that DJ194950 reply is a great video of door adjustment for these old cars and trucks. I enjoyed watching.
  18. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    To fix the problem to get the car started I took the plugs out and hooked up a wire with an alligator clip on one end to hook to the starter relay on the middle bolt and then put my finger over the spark plug hole on # 1 cylinder. Took the other end of the wire and touched the positive side of the starter relay and bump the engine over till I felt the pressure come from spark plug hole. Was close enough to TDC that I was able to turn the engine over by hand to exactly TDC. Took the distributor out just far enough to turn the shaft so it would line up again with the oil pump spline. That put the rotor on the distributor right at 7 oclock. Tightened the distributor back up hook up the wires to proper holes on the cap and woohoo turned the key and started right up. Looked at the oil pressure gauge and it came up quickly to around 40 to 45 PSI at idle with all the other gauges working fine too. Have yet to adjust the valves according to the book at running temp but I will do that tomorrow and re-torque the head bolts after that. Went out twice today and cranked up very fast running just fine as can be except for a little tappet noise that will be addressed in the morning. Now to address the R10 overdrive situation being 6 volt and the car is 12 volt. Thanks to all the great people that have chimed in for their knowledge and experience it is greatly appreciated.
  19. Labrauer

    Fulton visor installation

    Yes there is You have to remove the inside door panel and there are three bolts on each hinge that can be loosen. Pull the door back and re tighten the bolts. You have to be careful to make sure the door lock assembly is not to far out of adjustment other wise the door will drag on the door pillar. there are three bolts per hinge inside the door that provide door hinge adjustment.
  20. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Thanks people for all the help. The car is running with all the lights working as they should with no back fire. It is easy to start when the key is turned. I am so happy for all the great knowledge I get from this forum and the people that give it to me. Now I have to tackle the R10 transmission that is installed but is 6 volt. I am assuming I have to put in a 12 volt to 6 volt voltage reducer for the solenoid and the governor or how should this be addressed? Appreciate all the help as always
  21. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    I went back and checked my run and I did put my finger on the #1 spark plug hole and it seems that I am out 180% on the distributor how it got that way I have no idea. Stranger things have happened. Now how do I get it back to correct? Thanks as always
  22. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Okay guys thanks for all the help on the fuse box power and the lights. Thanks to you all I have everything working but in my way of all this stuff of rewiring with a 12 volt harness that I didn't realize was for a 12 volt system I made a change in the power system. In looking for some 6 volt stuff in the auto parts houses (Napa, Auto Zone, Oreilly, Santa Fe auto parts, and Advanced auto parts) around here in south Texas is like finding a 20K piece of gold in your front yard. I know I can order parts from the internet but it takes time to get them and it usually involves shipping cost. So with that said I have changed to a 12 volt one wire alternator on the car. I know many won't approve and I'll probable get a lot of slack in doing so but that's the way I chose to go. So with that said I have a question on why the engine will not start. I have checked that #6 piston is in the top position from the plug hole on the head and have looked at the distributor to see if the rotor is facing the #6 wire to the plug. All is fine so I turned the engine by hand to the TDC on the crank pulley and checked the rotor again and it is in the 7 o'clock position which is the #1 plug. I checked for spark from the plug to the plug wire and it has spark but no cranking, checked to see if it was getting gas and it is. When trying to start it backfires through the carb which I would think tells me it's out of time but how can it be with the procedure I did? Before the engine was installed in the car I checked the valves for their clearance according to the book. Anyone have any suggestions on how stupid I am or what can be wrong. As always thanks for the help in advance.
  23. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Well Wiggo' I am starting with no old wires in the car as usual I messed up when I decided to redo the wires and let some young folks rip the wires out. I regret doing that now but that was then and this is now me feeling the pain and frustration of the new wiring harness. Here's what I have done so far on the car in which it is 1948 P-15 by the way. I have purchased a new Ignition Switch #70702B with 4 connections, new Headlight switch #70701, New turn signal switch #6020, and a new starter button. All have been installed on the car. ?The signal switch was wire up according to the kwik wire book instructions. The ignition switch also was wired by the book, the headlight was wired by the book but still there is nothing working except for the headlights but no instrument lights, dome light, dimmer switch and indicator high beam light, electric fuel pump that runs off a toggle switch. The fuel gauge and fuel sending unit seems to be working. I have not hooked up the starter button yet. When I hook up the battery and look at the signal switch the red center glass glows a faint light but when I flip the handle down or up the light goes out and nothing blinks at all. The horns are not working but when I push the horn ring I hear a click sound in the fuse box at the built in horn relay, I will try what you have down for me to change and see if it helps. I have my fingers crossed that it does. Thanks for the reply and help
  24. Labrauer

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Thanks Dave72dt /That is what I thought but was not sure.
  25. Labrauer

    Electronics wizard needed...

    Robin is the overdrive a R7 or a R10? I think I might have a wiring diagram for the R7 shift rite on the shift knob somewhere here on the computer if you need it.
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