Labrauer

My thought would be the flasher not making good contact or test the wires for a brake somewhere between the front dash and the rear light. I have also experienced sometimes not knowing it, if strands of your wire are missing (another words 12 strand wire with just 5 or 6 strands connected on a post there will not be enough power coming out.) On my 48 Plymouth I had the flasher go bad and also when one light wasn't working the ground wasn't grounded good enough like I assumed it was. I'm also assuming the car is still 6 volt. I have found that when a car sits up any length of time no matter how it was mechanically before the storage nothing seems to work the same. Dirt, corrosion, connections, animals you name it can do many different things to an electrical system.

Welcome to the forum there are a lot of great people on here that have many years of experience with these old cars and I rely on their comments and knowledge to keep my daily driver 48 Plymouth coupe on the road. No matter how dumb you might think your question might be there is always some one down the line that will answer it without criticizing the question. I know I have asked some pretty wild ones. I'm still learning too and have been for many, many years on here. Good luck with your project and may you enjoy it many years to come.

It's a little after 9 tonight and I went by the auto parts store and bought a new fuel hose to put on the car, with that being said I have replaced it just now. Started the car and I see nor hear any leaks. Tomorrow I'll drive and see if this has helped hopefully it did got my fingers crossed I'll report back sometime tomorrow evening to let everyone know the outcome. Thanks for the replies.

Thanks for the replies I will see if I can find a lower pressure cap that will fit the new radiator.

Well people I thought I had the problem solved with the carburetor leak by buying a new fuel pump and installing on the 230 and it did work just fine with no leaks for a week or so. Now driving today down the highway the car started to jump like it was starving for gas and started to die so I flipped the switch on the electric pump and the car picked up and ran fine. Drove it about three more miles down the road then switched it off to use mechanical one again and low and behold the same problem again. By the way the fuel line from fuel pump on the engine to the carb is insulated with the exhaust wrap and then wrapped with a rubber tape so I know it isn't vapor lock that's happening. Last time I reran the fuel line away from the exhaust a long the inter fender. People this is a new pump that is only maybe three weeks old when it was received from Andy Burnham Plymouth Parts. Could it be possible that the pump they sent was bad or what and not one but two. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing Andy's parts because I'm not "Lets make that clear" but the same thing happened to the one before I purchased from them that's why I installed the electrical one in the first place. Are the parts we buy from different places to replace worn out parts on our cars these days not up to the specs that are needed. The carb on the car is also only about a year old that George Ache built for me. "Love that guy." I just want the car to be reliable and not leave me on the side of the road simply because I love driving it and it is an every day driver. I am frustrated and just want some more advice from people on solutions. I can and will try any suggestions if I can afford it. Well you know I am not sure I'm going to say I replaced them when I moved the fuel line to the fender but the one that comes from the pump is metal that goes up to the bowl I installed on the upper inside of fender in order to replace the fuel filter easier. Right now I have no filter installed in the bowl just haven't gotten the new one yet. Now the hose from that bowl to the carb being about 12 to 18 inches long I would have to guess two or maybe three years old and I am only guessing at this. The hose still feels firm to the touch and doesn't feel pliable like you could kink it if you know what I mean.

I purchased a new three core radiator for the 48 Plymouth coupe "230 engine" because the old original one the overflow tube broke at the neck and no one wants to work on or they say they won't work on the old honey coned ones. My question is the new radiator came with a 19# cap and I think the old cap is just a 4 or 5# cap. If I install with the new 19# cap will it make the car run hotter than the regular old cap? And of course the old cap won't fit the new radiator> Open for advice.

Well people I thought I had the problem solved with the carburetor leak by buying a new fuel pump and installing on the 230 and it did work just fine with no leaks for a week or so. Now driving today down the highway the car started to jump like it was starving for gas and started to die so I flipped the switch on the electric pump and the car picked up and ran fine. Drove it about three more miles down the road then switched it off to use mechanical one again and low and behold the same problem again. By the way the fuel line from fuel pump on the engine to the carb is insulated with the exhaust wrap and then wrapped with a rubber tape so I know it isn't vapor lock that's happening. Last time I reran the fuel line away from the exhaust a long the inter fender. People this is a new pump that is only maybe three weeks old when it was received from Andy Burnham Plymouth Parts. Could it be possible that the pump they sent was bad or what and not one but two. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing Andy's parts because I'm not "Lets make that clear" but the same thing happened to the one before I purchased from them that's why I installed the electrical one in the first place. Are the parts we buy from different places to replace worn out parts on our cars these days not up to the specs that are needed. The carb on the car is also only about a year old that George Ache built for me. "Love that guy." I just want the car to be reliable and not leave me on the side of the road simply because I love driving it and it is an every day driver. I am frustrated and just want some more advice from people on solutions. I can and will try any suggestions if I can afford it.

Need some information on putting the chrome piece back on the 48 P15 under the doors. It seems that when I put the new clips in the holes they are loose and fall right back out. Anybody know of just how these clips are suppose to be installed. Car Clip 4.jfifCar Clips.jfifClips 2.jfif Clips 3.jfif

Dave72dt thanks for the information I may have to get one of those fuel pressure regulators if I have to go back to the electric pump again but sense I put the new mechanical pump on the car the carb. hasn't leaked. Maybe i should go ahead and purchase one just in case the mechanical one leaves me on the side of the road one day. Thank you for the response

Today I went ahead and put the mechanical gas pump on the car and turned the switch off the electric pump I was using full time. So far I have no leaking where it was leaking. I don't know if the electrical pump was pumping to much gas to the carburetor or what but the leak has stopped and that puts a smile ? back on my face. I'll let you know after I drive it a couple of days

Hey guys on my 48 P15 Plymouth I have a dripping of gas from the DOG carburetor throttle shaft 14-38-14 that I need some information on how to get it to stop leaking or if there is some kind of rubber or gasket that has failed. It's at the shaft that goes through the flange assy 14-33-1 on the ROD 14-39-28 side. I see that there is a spring washer 14-54-10 that is there. In my book I don't see any kind of gasket or rubber washer that goes there. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank in advance, Labrauer

I was just about to ask the same question when I got on here tonight but it is for the 48 Plymouth coupe. Mine on the drivers side has the perfect fit between the hood and the upper part of the fender but on the other side the hood almost touches the fender. I see there is two bolts on the side one goes onto the body and the other goes onto the hinge itself. I was wondering if those bolts have any up and down play when loosened so the hood could be lifted somewhat? The hood springs are only two or three years old since installed on car.

I'm wanting to get the old 48 Plymouth Coupe Special Deluxe Painted and have all the chrome off except for the rocker panel trim off. My question is how do you remove this trim? Also on the trim that goes on the front of the car under the hood down to the bumper a couple of the bolts broke off so anyone know where I can find these?

Well people the car is back to running great again. I don't know what happened but I decided I would remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance on all the cylinders. When I got to number three the adjustment was way to tight couldn't get the feeler gauge in. After all were checked went back to the compression test and now 150# all but # three and it has 147#. No more missing when running. I can't figure out why the valves got to tight all of the sudden when the car gets drove every day . I'm puzzled. Anyhow thanks for all the great responses from all.

I'm out of town till Tuesday so when I get back I will try the air compressor but don't the # 3 cylinder have to be in the closed position for the valves in order to see if one of the valves is not celling off? Wouldn't the air just go right through if the valves aren't closed?

Los_Control I will try the dollar bill trick and see if that will give me some indication of the burnt valve. Yes the other cylinders seem to be great. I just hate to pull the head last time I pulled the head on the 218 I broke three bolts off what a mess that was. The tail pipes have always made a kind of popping sound.

My Plymouth flathead engine # P25-21519 which is in my 48 coupe has started to run around 200 degrees on the temp gauge which is unusual, it has always run 160. The engine started to run rough so I thought new plugs were in order so I change them, I changed the thermostat, flushed the radiator, checked the timing and still no change in the rough running. This morning I did a compression test on the cylinders, this is what I found. #1 (135), #2 (135), #3 (70), #4 (150), #5 (135) and #6 (140). I put a little oil in the cylinder of #3 and checked compression again and got only 90 pounds this time. My question is where should I start and what may be the cause of low pressure in #3 cylinder. This is not a good time for this to happen.

Hey Booger what carb. is this in your picture. It looks different than mine on the 230 L6. I need to get me a new one for the car the one that's on it I can't get the jet to adjust anymore.

No I haven't not yet

Where did you mount the power booster and master cylinder? Is it mounted on the inside of the frame where originally the master cylinder was mounted?

I think my first move would be checking out the pin or rod that goes to the master cylinder from the power booster. I did take the carpet up and removed the top from the master cylinder, pushed on the brake pedal and released it watching the fluid I see no movement of fluid. I also stuck a very small screw driver in the large hole at the bottom of the master to see if I could feel any piston movement. I don't think I felt any movement if I did it was very very little.

A big thanks for all the responders with great advice. I won't be able to work on the car this weekend but I will try Monday or Tuesday so I will take the advice and run with it then. I also was thinking it maybe a push rod problem. I have another question if I have a Disc/Disc Proportioning Valve mounted to the master cylinder do I still need the 2# inline residual pressure valve in the brake line also?

I thought I wanted to change my drum brakes to disc at one time but now I wish I hadn't. I completed my front disc conversion on my 48 Plymouth Coupe and talked to some guys on the forum here on how to do them. It seemed to be a straight forward easy project. All I had to do is install the conversion and take the poporshing valve out of the old master cylinder and they would work just fine. Well for some odd reason (as a lot of you have had no problems doing this) I couldn't get any brakes. I tried everything I could think of and finally broke down and took the car to a shop to see if they could figure out my problem. Well the guy there said he could fix the problem and also put disc on the rear as well for $700 parts and labor all included. That's cheaper than I did the front so being the dumb ass I am I said go for it. After the car being in his shop for over 2 1/2 years I finally picked it up only to fine I returned around 9 different times because the brakes were not working like they should. Every time he would say they got them fixed only for me to drive the car a day or maybe two and have to return to his shop again. We are now in the third year and I still am having a head ache with these brakes. There was a power booster and a new master cylinder installed with the 2 lb. valve in the brake lines. The power booster and master cylinder are mounted in the old position on the frame under the car. When I drive the car at first the brakes seem to be fine for the first couple of stops but after that they get hard and won't release or get so tight that you can't turn the front wheels by hand and when you come to a stop sign the car will stop on it's own without pushing the brake pedal. I am wondering if any of you know where I should start to get this fixed and working like they should? I had one guy tell me that the master cylinder and booster had to be mounted above the disc brake cylinders in order for them to work like they should. Is there any truth to this? If some of you have done this conversion on all four wheels I would appreciate some pictures or guidance before I go nuts. Oh buy the way the shop closed and the mechanic has sold his house and moved.

I have been reading a lot about rear ends and axels being swapped. I have seen where there are some that are almost a bolt in and then again I read that people have to do a lot of work in order to make things work or line up. My question is what are the dimensions of a 48 Plymouth coupe rear end and if you know what rear end will work as a bolt up with disc brakes. One more question I have is there a car or truck frame that a 48 P15 coupe will bolt up to and still have the look of an old body but more modern features.