Labrauer

I have a 230 engine in my 48 plymouth coupe that I need to time at top dead center. I put a electronic distributor on the car and the manufacturer says that it probably needs to be set about 18* before top dead center. Why I don't know but the car sounds like it's missing out. I think if I can pull the distributor out maybe I can just put it back in when I get it at top dead center. My question is how do I know when the engine is at top dead center without removing the water pump and the timing chain cover to line up the timing marks on the timing chain. Is there an easier way.

Chrysler created 81,065 DeSoto Sixes in 1929. In 1934, Chrysler prioritized DeSoto’s over Dodge branding and gave these cars Airflow bodies which induced a smaller wheelbase. In 1935, Chrysler introduced the Airstream, which sold better than the Airflow models. The Airstream design was similar to past Desoto’s though slightly modernized. However, the most significant change in DeSoto Sixes came with the 1942 model with pop-up headlights. It was the first mass-produced vehicle in North America to include them. DeSoto sold the addition as “Air-Foil” lights.

https://www.facebook.com/reel/1967075043627335?s=yWDuG2&fs=e&mibextid=Nif5oz

Problem solved just had the starter done in 12 volts with new gears and all. Starts like a dream in the mornings. Found a man that worked for a starter and alternator rebuilding shop that closed down a couple of years ago. This man worked there 24+ years and when they closed the doors he bought all their equipment and opened a little shop at his home. Took the starter in on a Monday morning and picked it up two days later Wednesday around noon. The cost $207.00 parts, labor and all. Looked like a brand new one just bought out of a box.

When I did mine engine to electronic ignition I found a distributor that was all made up and was a direct fit. I was trying to find the number and the sellers name but I haven't had any luck yet. My car has been converted to 12 volts though. Works really really well on start ups. I also had to get my starter done in 12 volts because after running a 6 volt starter on 12 volts many years the starter finely gave up.

I like the ones Sniper and Plymouth Adams has mounted on the cars but as Sniper said location is the key. I know it seems everything is some what hard to find and a lot of times it take some engineering to make it look halfway decent. My 48 four door sedan has the ones similar to Donald's and they do pretty well I just don't like the look on the car. Sorry Donald. I just don't know if I am qualified to install the ones like Plymouth Adams or Sniper. Question for you two is there a method of finding the location for drilling the holes besides sitting in the car and having someone hold the mirrors in place and still clear the vent window when it's opened.

Trying to find some mirrors that can go on the outside of the doors on a 48 Plymouth P15 that you can see the traffic. I have two on my car now but you can't see anything in the one on the passenger side of the car because of the vent window blocking the view. Does anyone have any idea or pictures of what you have.

SteveR no I haven't looked at any of these yet I guess that's a good idea before I order a new starter thanks man I really never thought of that

Doug and Deb are you kidding me here we had a few years ago but they have all gone out of business. Just like all the radiator shops there ain't no more around here and the last one around here said they wouldn't work on the old cone type of radiator that's why I had to buy a new one for the old car.

Do you think this would fit into the current starter Plymouth 230 flathead motor if so I'll get it. I have been running a 6 volt one for years but yesterday it gave up the ghost and was dragging until it quit all together

Where can I find a 12 volt starter for my 48 Plymouth 230 engine The car has been converted from 6 volt to 12 volt

Only thing to remember is don't use to thick of a rubber because if you do you will run into the problem of lining up the bolt holes for the bolts at least the ones where the nuts are welded to the frame

On my 48 plymouth at the bottom of the radiator I have a rubber piece that slides inside the bottom u channel and I had to get a pry bar to break it loose otherwise it seemed it was stuck or I had missed one of the bolts. Be careful these old radiators are pretty heavy and also if you don't have the fan blades out you might have to turn them in order to remove radiator

I think the pan gaskets are cork but the ones that go on the ends of the oil pan are the rubber ones. Be sure not to cut them off even if they look like they are to long. When you tighten your pan they will squeeze down into the Grove at the ends of the pan. If I remember right there is an upper one and a lower one. They are not that hard to change but can be time consuming to get them done right. Even though you may put new ones in it won't be long before the leak starts all over again. Out of all the ones I have had the pleasure of changing they all leak over time. Good luck with yours

I stand corrected it is a 9 1/4 inch pressure plate and clutch. Andy has the pressure plate clutch for $128.00 if you want one. Might add one new thing to this if you do take it down you might want to test the springs in your pressure plate for breakage or you might have some weak springs that need to be replaced

If I'm not mistaken my 48 plymouth coupe has a 10 inch pressure plate and clutch plate. It has been years ago when I redid mine but I think I recall it being 10 inch

Well guys I'm in Tennessee now now and have limited internet here like hit and miss but this would be for my 48 plymouth coupe. I have seen where a guy will convert the 6 volt radio to 12 volts and puts in the solid state components and can even make it so you can change your phone and have m3 player on it but unfortunately for me the price is pretty steep so I was looking for something that would make the radio play without robbing a bank to pay for it. And for all concerned I have converted to 12 volts. Anyway thanks for all the replies and great comments

My 48 Plymouth has been converted to 12 volt from 6 volts and I know a lot of people on here have done the same thing. I would like to listen to the radio again while driving around town and the highways. In doing so and knowing the radio is run on the 6 volt power has anyone installed a voltage reducer so that the radio will still be able to play. If anyone has done this can you tell me how it is done and what voltage reducer you used or what kind of set up you are using. My radio is I believe is the 802 model.

Hey Sam Buchanan not to change the topic but in your picture where did you get the modern oil filter housing instead of the canister type oil filter?

Is it possible guys that I put a bowl on the fender just like the one on the mechanical fuel pump being that there is gas full in the fuel pump bowl and the one on the fender of the car? Since I started having this problem I don't have a fuel filter in either bowl until I figure out the problem. Oh by the way I did change the fuel hose to the carb the other lines are metal lines all the way up to the bowl on the fender. The fuel tank is fairly new only about 3 or 4 years old and at that time I replaced all the lines from the tank to the carb. Is there a way to test to see if there is a pin hole along those steel lines with some kind of gauged. I looked all over the lines and don't see anywhere where it looks like a leaking line nor any kind of a gas stain. The lines all have been enclosed in the wire loom type plastic so they won't get rubbed against the frame or the clips causing a hole. Anyway we are still fighting the battle. Did the same thing today. Thanks for the help and replies.

harmony I may have to end up doing some drilling as you said if I can't get these clips to stay in place. I just hate the fact of modifying the clips with drilling holes through them and the car but I'll do what I have to to get that piece back on the car.

Yes Eneto-55 in your picture of the two chrome pieces that's the brackets I have on each end. They are not the problem they bolt in with the bolts the ones I'm having trouble with is the other four that go into the holes between those two. Those holes are about 3/8" wide and 5/8" long. Just can't seem to get the clips to stay engaged in the holes.

I had an old Plymouth I bought from my brother in law one time that has set up for years (about 6) to be fact. I dropped the tank and inside was a lot of gunk and crap. Took the sending unit out empty the what was left of liquid gas washed it out with a pressure washer. I put a heavy long chain in the tank with some more water then shook the heck out of it. After a few times of this the tank inside looked brand new worked fine for years. I've done lawn mower tanks and other gas tanks the same way. I have also taken one to a radiator shop and they boiled it out with the same stuff they do the radiators with. Now days we haven't anyone around here that is into the radiator fixing anymore it seems it is cheaper to just buy a new radiator than to have one fixed I guess. The last radiator shop around this part of the country wouldn't work on the old honey cone radiators in these old cars he said no can do. As for getting rid of the old gas what ever you do don't let the EPA catch you dumping it into the ground oh boy what a huge fine you'll pay.

I'd sure love to find one for the 48 P15 but like many things they are hard to find or if you find one they want an arm and two legs for them

Clips 3.pdfClips 3.pdfCar Clips.pdfI still haven't been able to get the rocker molding on the 48 Plymouth coupe installed. It seems that I'm doing something wrong where the clips won't stay in the holes when I try to put the molding on them. Anyone have a solution?