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About Labrauer

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 10/20/1954

Contact Methods

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  • Biography
    I am disabled and take life one day at a time. I became disabled in 2005 with Guildon Bree' sendrum.
  • Occupation
    Before I got disabled I worked for National Oilwell Varco

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    18611 McKay Alvin, TX. 77511
  • Interests
    I love working and driving my old cars around getting the thumbs up when someone passes by or I pass them. I love woodworking in my spear time. I love talking to the geese, chickens, ducks, goats, squirrel and dogs in the morning when feeding them on the farm. These are just a few of the animals we have. Just a way to clear my mind and get a friendly response without something negative coming out of their mouths. LOL
  • My Project Cars
    I have two project cars at this time and they are two 1948 Plymouth,s. I have a coupe and a sedan that I love to drive more than the 2000 F250 Ford pickup or the 2007 Toyota we have also.


  • Location
    I live in Alvin, Texas or I should say a little town called Algoa but my mailing address is Alvin.
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Fishing and camping, Old cars and trucks

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  1. I am thinking on changing the points out for the pentronix electronic ignition system but have heard different stories on using with the R 10 overdrive unit. I have heard the interrupt service for the overdrive will not kill the engine for a millisecond for the shift. My car is now 12 volt negative ground and is a 48 Plymouth Flathead 218 if that will help and the distributor number is IAT-4011 #1343554. I know many of you have had experience with this type of setup so I'm here to get some reliable information. Will this setup work? Is there any modification I have to do? By chance do anyone know what part numbers I need to order? And last is there a such a thing as a 12 volt condenser and a 12 volt set of points available? As always thanks in advance, Larry
  2. Labrauer

    Fuel lines

    Heck I went down to my local parts shop and just got some 5/16" brake lines in different lengths they have male fittings on each end. Bought a couple of female brass cuplers and ran that from the tank all the way to the fuel pump on the engine. Worked fine for years.
  3. Labrauer


    Norm I once had an engine (218) that all three spark plug holes got full of water after filling the radiator and starting the engine. Didn't see the water until I started the engine. The gasket under the thermostat housing was leaking. I tried to tighten the bolts down but got to the point that I thought I was going to break them off. Still was leaking so I took the housing off installed a new gasket but this time I put some permertex gasket sealer on top and bottom of the gasket and never had a leak since. If that isn't your case I would look at a leaking radiator upper hose or the radiator it self. Check to see it the radiator cap has the gasket on it also.
  4. Labrauer

    Fulton visor installation

    The video that DJ194950 reply is a great video of door adjustment for these old cars and trucks. I enjoyed watching.
  5. Labrauer


    To fix the problem to get the car started I took the plugs out and hooked up a wire with an alligator clip on one end to hook to the starter relay on the middle bolt and then put my finger over the spark plug hole on # 1 cylinder. Took the other end of the wire and touched the positive side of the starter relay and bump the engine over till I felt the pressure come from spark plug hole. Was close enough to TDC that I was able to turn the engine over by hand to exactly TDC. Took the distributor out just far enough to turn the shaft so it would line up again with the oil pump spline. That put the rotor on the distributor right at 7 oclock. Tightened the distributor back up hook up the wires to proper holes on the cap and woohoo turned the key and started right up. Looked at the oil pressure gauge and it came up quickly to around 40 to 45 PSI at idle with all the other gauges working fine too. Have yet to adjust the valves according to the book at running temp but I will do that tomorrow and re-torque the head bolts after that. Went out twice today and cranked up very fast running just fine as can be except for a little tappet noise that will be addressed in the morning. Now to address the R10 overdrive situation being 6 volt and the car is 12 volt. Thanks to all the great people that have chimed in for their knowledge and experience it is greatly appreciated.
  6. Labrauer

    Fulton visor installation

    Yes there is You have to remove the inside door panel and there are three bolts on each hinge that can be loosen. Pull the door back and re tighten the bolts. You have to be careful to make sure the door lock assembly is not to far out of adjustment other wise the door will drag on the door pillar. there are three bolts per hinge inside the door that provide door hinge adjustment.
  7. Labrauer


    Thanks people for all the help. The car is running with all the lights working as they should with no back fire. It is easy to start when the key is turned. I am so happy for all the great knowledge I get from this forum and the people that give it to me. Now I have to tackle the R10 transmission that is installed but is 6 volt. I am assuming I have to put in a 12 volt to 6 volt voltage reducer for the solenoid and the governor or how should this be addressed? Appreciate all the help as always
  8. Labrauer


    I went back and checked my run and I did put my finger on the #1 spark plug hole and it seems that I am out 180% on the distributor how it got that way I have no idea. Stranger things have happened. Now how do I get it back to correct? Thanks as always
  9. Labrauer


    Okay guys thanks for all the help on the fuse box power and the lights. Thanks to you all I have everything working but in my way of all this stuff of rewiring with a 12 volt harness that I didn't realize was for a 12 volt system I made a change in the power system. In looking for some 6 volt stuff in the auto parts houses (Napa, Auto Zone, Oreilly, Santa Fe auto parts, and Advanced auto parts) around here in south Texas is like finding a 20K piece of gold in your front yard. I know I can order parts from the internet but it takes time to get them and it usually involves shipping cost. So with that said I have changed to a 12 volt one wire alternator on the car. I know many won't approve and I'll probable get a lot of slack in doing so but that's the way I chose to go. So with that said I have a question on why the engine will not start. I have checked that #6 piston is in the top position from the plug hole on the head and have looked at the distributor to see if the rotor is facing the #6 wire to the plug. All is fine so I turned the engine by hand to the TDC on the crank pulley and checked the rotor again and it is in the 7 o'clock position which is the #1 plug. I checked for spark from the plug to the plug wire and it has spark but no cranking, checked to see if it was getting gas and it is. When trying to start it backfires through the carb which I would think tells me it's out of time but how can it be with the procedure I did? Before the engine was installed in the car I checked the valves for their clearance according to the book. Anyone have any suggestions on how stupid I am or what can be wrong. As always thanks for the help in advance.
  10. Labrauer


    Well Wiggo' I am starting with no old wires in the car as usual I messed up when I decided to redo the wires and let some young folks rip the wires out. I regret doing that now but that was then and this is now me feeling the pain and frustration of the new wiring harness. Here's what I have done so far on the car in which it is 1948 P-15 by the way. I have purchased a new Ignition Switch #70702B with 4 connections, new Headlight switch #70701, New turn signal switch #6020, and a new starter button. All have been installed on the car. ?The signal switch was wire up according to the kwik wire book instructions. The ignition switch also was wired by the book, the headlight was wired by the book but still there is nothing working except for the headlights but no instrument lights, dome light, dimmer switch and indicator high beam light, electric fuel pump that runs off a toggle switch. The fuel gauge and fuel sending unit seems to be working. I have not hooked up the starter button yet. When I hook up the battery and look at the signal switch the red center glass glows a faint light but when I flip the handle down or up the light goes out and nothing blinks at all. The horns are not working but when I push the horn ring I hear a click sound in the fuse box at the built in horn relay, I will try what you have down for me to change and see if it helps. I have my fingers crossed that it does. Thanks for the reply and help
  11. Labrauer


    Thanks Dave72dt /That is what I thought but was not sure.
  12. Labrauer

    Electronics wizard needed...

    Robin is the overdrive a R7 or a R10? I think I might have a wiring diagram for the R7 shift rite on the shift knob somewhere here on the computer if you need it.
  13. Labrauer

    Electronics wizard needed...

    Robin is the overdrive a R7 or a R10? I think I might have a wiring diagram for the R7 shift rite on the shift knob somewhere here on the computer if you need it.
  14. Labrauer


    Wiggo Look in the download files there are wiring diagrams for the 48 Plymouth and others.
  15. Labrauer


    Thanks for all the helpful replies guys I now have power to the fuse box. I have power to the fuse box and the head lights and dome light except the dome light will not turn off without disconnecting the battery cable. Those three things are working but nothing else. Tomorrow I am going to take my wiring book out and go through each and every wire to make sure it is going to the right place out of the fuse box. I thought we (my son and I ) hooked everything up by the book but apparently we did something wrong or didn't hook up wires right. I have one more question to ask you guys and that is there is a pink wire # 20 14Ga. that comes from the fuse box and says to connect to the positive lug on the coil. I don't know if this way is for a positive ground hookup or a negative ground hook up out of the book. I have a hard time reading and understanding these instructions and diagrams. Anybody know? Thanks again.

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