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Labrauer

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  • Content Count

    363
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About Labrauer

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 10/20/1954

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    braular@aol.com
  • Yahoo
    Braular@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    I am disabled and take life one day at a time. I became disabled in 2005 with Guildon Bree' sendrum.
  • Occupation
    Before I got disabled I worked for National Oilwell Varco

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    18611 McKay Alvin, TX. 77511
  • Interests
    I love working and driving my old cars around getting the thumbs up when someone passes by or I pass them. I love woodworking in my spear time. I love talking to the geese, chickens, ducks, goats, squirrel and dogs in the morning when feeding them on the farm. These are just a few of the animals we have. Just a way to clear my mind and get a friendly response without something negative coming out of their mouths. LOL
  • My Project Cars
    I have two project cars at this time and they are two 1948 Plymouth,s. I have a coupe and a sedan that I love to drive more than the 2000 F250 Ford pickup or the 2007 Toyota we have also.

Converted

  • Location
    I live in Alvin, Texas or I should say a little town called Algoa but my mailing address is Alvin.
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Fishing and camping, Old cars and trucks

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  1. Plymouth Adams what do you mean what else have I changed in the process. I have not changed the rear brakes, I haven't changed anything except for the entire brake lines from back to front. A while back I changed the back shoes and wheel cylinders and a new master cylinder. I changed the brake rod link to what I thought was right. The front brake hoses were changed to the disc brake caliper. I have checked for leaks and there were non found in the lines or cylinders. pump the brakes and get no pressure at all. Master is full of fluid and when brake peddle pumped no air bubbles come out of the holes in the master. This should be a simple change but it's turning into a disaster.
  2. Ok guys I once again got a little time to work on the disc brake again. I have gotten a 2# pressure valve and a 10# valve on the brake lines and also took out the valve in the master but still have know brakes. I can't seem to get any pedal pressure on the brakes. I can't seem to figure out what i am doing wrong. I have adjusted the rod going to the master from the brake pedal trying to get the rubber cup washer in be tween the two holes on the bottom of the master. it is hard for me to see if this is correct or not but I think it is. any suggestions would be appreciated
  3. Plymouth Adams what small hole are you refurring to on the end cap of the master cylinder? is it the hole that is in the end cap that is on the inside of the threads of the end cap?
  4. Thanks guys for the answers you all have given. I took the master down out of the car and took out the rubber cup like item hoping it was the this was the valve you are suppost to remove. Put the master back on the car and filled with fluid pumping slowly till all air seem to be out of master but never got any peddle on the brake, I called napa and they don't have a 2lb pressure valve and nor does auto zone or oryles. does anyone know where I can get one and I am assuming I also will have to put a 10lb one in for the back brakes? One other thing is when I took the master out the cap under pressure was leeking (squarting) out fluid is that suppost to happen. i got the master from one of the vendors on the fourm a year ago. The cap is tight.
  5. So what I am getting from this discussion is that I don't have to do anything to the master cylinder at all but I do need to put some kind of 2psi valve on the line that goes to the front disc brakes or am I not reading this right. I am still not sure how to go about getting this done any suggestions or pictures would be of a great benefit
  6. I am putting scarebird disc brakes on my 48 Plymouth coupe and I have read that some guys do nothing with their master cylinder and they work just fine and others say they had to remove the valve to make them work. My question is how do you know if your valve needs to come out or not?
  7. There are only 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing two on each side. The transmission will come out of the bell housing with some resistance but it will come off. Be sure you have someone there to help you as it is quite heavy and keep it at a level as it has to come out of the though out bearing and the pilot bushing. I have changed three and sometimes you have to pry between the bell and transmission to break it loose. Good luck.
  8. I don't know much on the heater motor except people saying you can use a 12 to 6 volt converter but they can get hot so I haven't did mine yet either many people say it is best to find a 12 volt motor for the heater. When I went to 12 volts I went with the one wire alternator and it works great. My wiper motor is still vacuum run so I didn't have to change that. There is a site on the web that can change your old generator over to 12 volt if you want to keep the old look on the car but I didn't have the money to do that either. I do like the fact that the car starts much easier on the 12 volt verses 6 volts.
  9. Hey guys I have been thinking about the disc brake conversion on the 48 P15 and have read here and other places that it is pretty easy if you chose the right kit. When it comes to brakes I am a little scared of making a mistake all I need is to going down the road and the car doesn't stop. I have read about the master cylinder changes you have to do and then others say they put a dual master on after doing the change. All this talk is some kind of Greek to me because I just don't understand how a dual master is or how it would mount up. Any pointers out there that can shed some light with pictures.
  10. Hi guys I took the drums off the front and took the brakes off. I looked at them and found on one side the cylinders were leaking making the shoes grab in the forward movement. I have ordered some front cylinders from Napa at $25.00 a piece. I also had the drums turned today so they are nice and round. Just as soon as the order comes in I will put back together and see if they will work as they should. Shouldn't be no reason why they shouldn't after this. One comment was to change to disc brakes and I have read about them but I don't under stand what you have to do to the master cylinder and what you have to take out. Can anyone in-lite me on this procedure.
  11. Not sure but I will have a check
  12. I have put a new master cylinder on the 48 Plymouth and benched bled the master cylinder. Bled the brakes cylinders and now I have a problem. On the two front wheels I can roll the wheel with my hand backwards but when I try and roll the wheel frontwards I can't get it to move backwards yes forward no. I have checked the drums for clearance on the brake shoes and they seem to be fine. This all seems to have happened after I bled the brakes. The back wheels are fine moving both ways. Anyone out there know what's up with this. Thanks in advance, Larry
  13. Hey Don I did tell what fixed the problem in my post # 33. I guessed you missed it but you were the one that nailed it on the head. There was the metal spring still in the points box and when I installed it the car ran fine at 60 mph and above. Thanks
  14. Thanks for all the great information on my problem it is fixed and running good. We have a great group of people here on the forum.
  15. Well guys I have finally gotten to look at the Plymouth tonight after getting the wife all settled in. She came home yesterday and seems to be doing okay just hurting a lot and taking some pain pills for release of pain. What a crazy weekend and week this has been. Now to the Plymouth. I think we have a winner with Don"s commit on the points bouncing. I took the distributor out once more and also the points. It's much easier for me that way if I take it out. I look in the box the points came in and there was another clip spring in the box. I connected it to the points behind the copper tab and put back together. Started the car making sure the timing was at TDC once again. Stepped inside went through all the gears all the way up to 60 mph and no spit, spud-er, and no backfire at all. The car ran just fine up on the jack stands now when I get the R10 wired up and get it back on the ground we'll see if I get the same results as tonight. I know a lot of you don't like a 12 volt conversion done on these old 6 volt cars but I tell you I am very pleased with how easy the car starts now. I am amassed it seems it starts in less than one revolution of the engine. Anyway I appreciate all the replies and all the help as always. Thanks, Larry
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