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deathbound

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Everything posted by deathbound

  1. I didn't know there was a difference. I have a '38 Plymouth, I ordered my bias ply tires with tubes and never specified type of vehicle or wheel. What is the difference, stem size diameter? **EDIT** I'm running stock 16" wheels with 6.00-16 Firestone bias ply tires/tubes
  2. Going to be nice Fred, that intake/exhaust set-up looks great. I have a rebuilt A833, received my AoK trans adapter a couple weeks ago, and on the hunt for a Jeep rear end....for better gearing and e-brake.
  3. I hope that household wire nut is temporary.
  4. This place..... http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ I have used them before, somewhat local to me.
  5. I thought you were selling FYI and was about to say it should be in the classifieds.....too soon?
  6. I think you're overthinking this....clean all thread surfaces thoroughly, use hi-temp thread sealant, & stud installation/extractor (see link), which most auto parts stores have on loan and you should be good. I've never had a stud break from thread locking products (though I'm sure it's happened), but usually from rust. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Piece-Stud-Extractor-Installer-Socket-Set-in-Blow-Moulded-Case-1580ERA-/301913694737?hash=item464b756211:g:nNsAAOSwQjNW-xJv
  7. If going with the 318 & auto trans, you will lose you e-brake from the stock trans. Just a guess here, but I think you'll need a rear end with intergrated e-brake. Some go with a 3.73 or 3.55 rear from mid 90's Jeep Cherokees, others have used Ford Explorer (sorry, Exploder for the Ford haters). I think Butch's Cool Stuff sells motor mount kits for the 318. Good luck and welcome. You should be hearing from Andydodge soon.
  8. Refer to my post above. Any easy and quick check of all the steering components might tell you something. Are any joints loose with excessive play?
  9. I had a low speed wobble, but the car warming up had no effect. I rebuilt the steering box (sector shaft was severely worn), replaced all the rod ends/tie rods...whatever you want to call 'em, replaced drag link, replaced king pins. Afterwards, steering was tight-in a good way and no wobble whatsoever, at any speed. Not saying these issues are your problem, but even a couple may contribute. A visual/wiggle here and there should give you a good idea of the condition of the steering components.
  10. Here are a few.....last pic was uploaded right side up, but in the process rotated. Turn you screen 90 degrees and you'll be fine.
  11. I've got a '38 Plymouth with a Nicson dual carb intake and used the stock linkage to where it goes behind the engine to the passenger side and built my own from there. I can get pics if needed, in a day or 2. Did the same with a Sharp intake I was previously running.
  12. I'll be watching & I'm sure the successes will far outnumber the failures....if any.
  13. Something like this:http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-48332-Tamper-Resistant-L-Wrenches/dp/B002K3ELVO
  14. No mention of respirator or sandblasting hood, maybe you can quote that post in your response.
  15. I believe he works at O'reilly's....blatant plug? On another note, 3+ pages and no one has recommended a respirator. With the urine, there's most likely the other & with all that mice $h1t flying around, you don't want to breathe it in.
  16. No pics. Before you click on "Post" at the bottom right, click on "More Reply Options", then click on "Browse" just below "Attach Files" near the bottom left. You can then upload from your computer or some other source. You may have to edit/resize your pic(s). You can "preview" your post or just "add reply" near the bottom center. **EDIT** Also post pics of your car. I have a 1938 Plymouth P6 Coupe, which very similar to your car....for the most part.
  17. I've had an electric fuel pump since day 1 of owning my car, no heat shield & have NEVER had a hard start problem when the engine is hot. Funny this came up, my electric fuel pump went out a few days ago, luckily at home.
  18. Just to clarify, I only wanted the sway bar/shock set-up....A LOT lighter and easier to pack/ship than a drum to drum front axle. Would've given you a fair price and shipping for it. I, as others hate to see good parts get scrapped, especially hard to find parts. Take it as a "mini lecture", but, I thought it would be one car guy trying to help another, that's what WE do. Good luck with the build.
  19. To add or edit your "signature line", click on your user name at the top right of the screen, from the drop down menu, click on "My Profile", on the right side below your user name, click on "Edit my Profile", on the left side below "Profile Settings", click on "Signature", enter the info you want to show up below every post, then click on "Save Changes". Interested in what you have to say about the full flow for the flathead 6 motors.
  20. It's a link for an eBay ad....specific forum for that purpose. No grey area. The classifieds are for members. eBay/CL forum for links....members or non-members ads. I have used the classifieds with responses and parts exchanged, the classifieds work. If someone is looking for something they'll find, if they miss it, they weren't looking hard enough.
  21. I offered to buy some of the original front suspension parts, but you weren't interested in shipping, only scrap. Would've made more selling with a little extra effort.
  22. In Don's 2nd post of this thread, he specifically asked knuckleharley.
  23. Your work looks great. Does the tank now vent into the trunk? Do you notice any fumes when you open the trunk?
  24. Can you be more specific with the vacuum. If it fluctuates from 17-19, something is wrong.I believe there is a screw holding the bracket to the dizzy, which may have some more adjustment. Here's a link on vacuum readings:http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
  25. On my '38, they run along the inside of the driver's side frame rail. Looks like they had factory style clips securing the loom.
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