Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • adminstrator_p15d24ph

      Two New Clubs Now Available!   09/22/2017

      Check out the Dodge Truck Purists Club for those going the stock route or the Pacific NW MoPAR for those living in the Pacific Northwest!  

deathbound

Members
  • Content count

    1,164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by deathbound

  1. 39 Dodge D11 lowering Springs

    I like the way these cars (ok, ALL cars from the 20's thru 60's) look lowered, compared to stock. Keep us updated with "after" pics.
  2. Play in steering column?

    Aren't there shims in the box at the end of the steering shaft that control end play? Maybe the bearings/race in the box are worn?
  3. Electronic ignition

    I'm using Langdon's GM mini HEI unit and very happy with it. I don't like the way it looks, so may convert my original dizzy with the Pertronix kit I have.
  4. Wheel color opinions requested

    Personally, I wouldn't spend the time or money, since they're temporary. I think a set of black stock wheels with beauty rings and/or hubcaps would like nice on your truck. If you're determined to paint them, I would go with black, chrome lugs, maybe with the beauty rings to separate the tire from the wheel. Post follow up pics whatever you decide.
  5. 1938 plymouth front shocks

    Looks like the front and rear are the same collapsed length for both '37/'38 (which applies to this thread).
  6. Plymouth P-6 drag link

    Here's my thread when I rebuilt my front end on my '38 Plymouth Coupe: http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/?hl=%20front%20%20end%20%20rebuild Been a while, hope it helps.
  7. 1938 plymouth front shocks

    You mentioned this 3 or 4 times and are exactly right. Measure stock shock(or known working shock) fully compressed and fully extended center of mounting stud to center of mounting stud & mounting stud dimension. Exactly what I did for my '38 Ply Coupe. Took those dimensions to Napa and looked through their book myself, less than 10 minutes, had the part #'s I needed. Each page has the different mounting type designation & with that and the dimensions, found something within a 1/2" each way. My car is lowered, so I adjusted the measurements accordingly. On vaca, so no access to my car for part #'s, but I think all 4 were the same (again, lowered, so stock is out the window). Good luck.
  8. Rear Hub Stuck

    Yep, Jello rules!
  9. Rear Hub Stuck

    Best answer with the least amount of typing. Right at the top of the page in the "Resources" section.
  10. Replace 218 engine with a 230.

    Thanks. I looked into them a little further and it seems they are a permanent type plug, but can see where a concern would be with not relieving the the forces from freezing (not an issue where I live). I tried calling, but for some reason, the East coast vendors close about 3 hours earlier than us West coasters. I like the way the copper looks with Reze's black engine block. Here's a link, for anyone interested: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1011-02483.aspx?origin=keyword
  11. Replace 218 engine with a 230.

    What kind of freeze plugs are those?
  12. first try at wide whites

    How much $ and time into this so far?
  13. 1948 Dodge D24

    Unless your 6V starter needed a rebuild, it would be fine on 12V. I've been using my original 6V starter for at least 5 years since I converted to 12V with no problems. Also, had the original 6V wiring been in good condition, it's more than adequate for 12V sytems. If you're looking for originallity, Rhode Island Wire or YNZ has original looking cloth covered wire harnesses with modern plastic coated (or whatever material is used) wire inside, but very pricey.
  14. draglink rebuild

    I did mine on my '38 P6 just as Tod described. Bought a NOS drag link repair kit, but I reused my pitman arm (part with the ball), which had some wear. I rebuilt my steering box and replaced all the tie rods at the same time. Steering has virtually no play. I used to get low speed "death wobbles", no longer.
  15. Started the teardown, and now the build up.

    Who made the headers? If you shifted the kinked linkage with the spring to the other side of the carb linkage would it center up more on the carb base? One thing I found out the hard way, do not use the original "sandwich" type heat riser gasket for your hot water plate. I had to make one out of gasket material. Looks good.
  16. Bypass elbow

    If you're not concerned about originality, a brass elbow with a barbed fitting works fine.
  17. LA Roadster Show.

    Didn't make it today, maybe tomorrow.
  18. Vapor Lock Solution?

    I must be lucky. In the 6+ years I've owned my car, never had it stall or not start when hot. No heat shields or insulated fuels lines. Maybe it's because I run an electric fuel pump? Removed the mechanical pump and replaced with a block off plate.
  19. ’40 Roadking Coupe Build

    Here Fred: http://p15-d24.com/topic/41218-48-wheel-in-a-40-trim-piece-or-column-adapter/
  20. ’40 Roadking Coupe Build

    What year Cherokee & ratio? What is the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface dimension? Nice work so far.
  21. Fuzion tires

    Same here.
  22. My Friend Mike

    Progressing nicely and you couldn't ask for a better helper.
  23. It is officially on the trailer

    Paul Harvey....one of the greatest voices on radio.
  24. 1940 P-10 business coupe info

    Per my Plymouth 1936-1942 Master Parts List for 1940 P10 Coupe: Part Type Code 23-09-1 (pages 358-360) RH lower glass channel #850253 (vent type) illustration shows with rollers LH lower glass channel #850254 (vent type) illustration shows with rollers RH front channel #849459 LH front channel #849460 RH rear channel #849563 LH rear channel #849564
×