DJ194950
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Posts posted by DJ194950
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Cannot say about floor pan usage but on steering wheels it had held up exceptionally! Flexing too much may cause issues?, but our steer wheels flex a lot, so?.
They sell an off white that is somewhat close to the original off white factory used.
DJ
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1 hour ago, Pearsebln said:
I have a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer.
The rubber mount on my transmission control linkage is torn and sometimes the lever pops off.
Can you tell me where I can get one of these rubber bushing?
Or what can I use instead?
Greetings OlafResponded to in a repeat post above?
DJ
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Oldmoparts.com
Part #t200.
I believe, I being cheap and somewhat inventive used a rubber grommet that fit the ID of the linkage rod and OD of the shifting rod from the cab.. I may have opened the Hole of the grommet to fit the linkage better, but it's been several years so no guarantees but cheap enough to give it a go? They sell a assortment of sizes in a single box on a miscellaneous parts rack at most auto part stores in the US.
Best to ya,
DJ
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How about a one stop kit?
A bit expensive in my book!!! 🤑 😵
DJ
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O-rings do not work for this app...
I have several o-ring assortment boxes and tried 3-4 different ones. None worked, all tries still leaked often worse than before.
It was originally a square rubber seal of just the right thickness.. It needs to stay that type seal.
Where to get one? I do not know these days. Check some of the Mopar parts suppliers. Can this type be bought at a local bearing and seal seller?
They used to be avail on EBAY. Now?
DJ
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5 hours ago, TodFitch said:
Believe it or not, there are people in that area that feed them.
What ya expect from Californians?
They act like tourists and would love to hand feed them. ☠️
I say go ahead! Your choice what ya do with your life. 🃏
DJ
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Totally repairable by most! 🤔
DJ
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What you want to blast and how much is the first question?
I blasted a 50 Ply. Suburban- in and out, top to bottom, separated frame and all attaching pieces , some years back.
Used a HF 50lb? pot plaster with a cheap (6 hp - the Chinese measurement) motored compressor with a 60 gal. tank.
I worked it hard and had to stop a fair amount. I needed the breaks though. Fill sand pot, rest, let the compressor to cool. Shovel sand to reuse some.
Have a beer!
Got it done !
Took a lot of time but glad I did it.
Not to long after getting done the air compressor went south. Replaced it with a cheap 5 HP motor required ( their spec) compressor head for about $100 ( from HP) and just lowed the drive belt ratio to make it work fine.
Still works! 5 years and going.
Went through about 300 lbs.? of Graded Grit (30) Blasting sand from the local lumber yard. I think the Chain hardware stores sell it now also.
Buy a box of the ceramic blasting nozzles for the blaster and adjust the air pressure to max and then adjust the sand to just enough to work, no more, no less.
If what your removing does not come off easily, do not bear done down on it keep moving along and come back to that area later! Do not overhead the metal .
It is a hot job with a dust mask (required) under a blasting hood . Take the time you need. A Hood with a fresh air supply is highly recommended if you can afford one!
Have fun?
DJ
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Hopefully the meatloaf is still good .
The choc. shake will probably cost $12 and the rest?
DJ
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To drain a rear end with no drain - remove one or two of the lowest 3rd. member mounting bolts. They go through into the cavity where the oil is.
If all studs remove a stud or two.
Get'er done!
DJ
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The spring plug like things?
The plug like things shown on the bottom of that are just that-plugs - - Installed after springs were drilled and greased with a needle type grease fitting and the plugs were installed to seal the holes until the next spring greasing job. They did not come pre -drilled. Done at the dealer or home. Possibly listed in the parts list, I imagine could be on the accessories page ?
I saw this way in the past in a 1946-54 repair manual that I no longer have- passed on with the Ply. 4 dr. I sold to a friend.
I still have to learn how to drag pics from earlier pictures that were on a different page. Were are now on page two here. The picture was near the end on page one of this topic.
To replace the bolt that has the round head in that pic that a regular bolt and grind the head to a round shape that fits will into the hole of the rear end mounting from where if came out. The threaded end can be cut to length as needed. A grade 5 or 8 fine threaded bolt will work fine. Have done this several times.
DJ
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If I remember right a 1" or was it a 3/4" wood dowel works just fine!
I rebuilt 2 R-10's some years back with the wood dowel doing just fine.
Nothing fancy or expensive here.
DJ
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The R-10 solenoids both the 6 V. and 12V. are identical in size mounting and easily changed one to the other. The other parts on the trans that involve electrical are not voltage sensitive. NOTE: I said on the trans.
Used be some of both used solenoids on EBAY for sale.
Also even though Randy has passed on the company he ran is still in business . So, Rundle may still be selling brand new solenoids both the 6 and the 12. Expensive but only place I have seen that has them. Do they still sell them?
DJ
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4 minutes ago, Sniper said:
If you brought him up right he'd know how to hotwire it, lol.
Only if the computer is still being used though.
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Air grease.
Available most everywhere.. some locations have many additives but still works!
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I would use the metal if in great shape.
They look OK in pics but how much play is there when held over the ball.
If reasonably tight use the metal if not I would not hesitate to use the "nylon " .
Polish your balls before installation and all is well! ?
DJ
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He can't show up if he is not invited.
John-T will ya give Jay a call and invite him and his wife to come?
Have never seen her at filmed shows but since this is a family type get together and maybe Tim can clear off a landing strip for Jay's jet on the back 40 and she can come along and bring something to BBQ?
Jus' a thought. ?
DJ
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Remove the rust by rubbing with some wadded up aluminum foil.
Takes some elbow grease but does work well. Yes I have done it on a 47 Plymouth with rusty spot lights.
Follow up with waxes as mentioned to keep it shiny.
DJ
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If the flathead V8 is a ford there is nothing to gain over the Mopar flat 6's as the horsepower is the same and the mopar has more torque.
Seems a waste of time . Rebuilding prices on the Ford are way out of site also!
Stay with the proven winner!
Just my opinion of course but you can look up the facts I have stated.
DJ
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Word was that Wilcap has shut down and not selling their motor/trans adapters any longer but some other company has bought their leftover supplies and last I read 6+ months ago that companies website did not say whether they would continue to make new adpters.
Suggest you web search the Wilcap name to see for yourself if interested.
Some old aftermarket auto parts makes seem to dropping like fries these days.
If you have been planning to buy something from one of the aftermarket suppliers but been stalling, I suggest you get off your - - - and get it done just in case!
DJ
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16 hours ago, 42D22 said:
Need to read ALL the words in manual.
That is Supposed to be the method of last resort!
How are you supposed to learn if you start with that? ?
DJ
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Was the bidding for trucks only.?
Seems in the past that is was it was.
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Summit Racing sells at least three Different activators for the paints. One is for 80 degrees +, a second for 70-80 degrees and one for less than 70.
So, what is it that you would lack besides the ESP to know ahead of time the temp. you will have at the time when you decide to do your painting.
I usually bought 2 temperature activators to use depending on the temp that day and mix it if needed to get where I liked the flow out and set up time for the sprayed paint..
Do tests on cardboard first to see the spray before starting the actual parts painting.
My 2 c.
DJ
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47 minutes ago, Dartgame said:
You might consider taking the box to a radiator shop and explain what you want. They should be able to make or adapt something?
That is what I did for a 50 Plymouth under hood type of heater radiator and had replaced by the shops choice of replacement out of a book they had that had the sizes and outlet types and they ordered one and did they replacement .
Was not cheap for some reason I do not understand but it was was done and worked great- Also too hot in the car!
DJ
Flat head seats 1947
in P15-D24 Forum
Posted
All Mopar flat sixes (and 8's) can from the factory with Valve seats (hardened).
NO need to change anything but maybe timing if you have been running a higher octane gas.
They have No problem running non leaded gas- never did! 😁
DJ