DJ194950

I'm going to go Out there on a long limb with group -I think-- An old mechanic told me what he did to exposed old bolts that did not want to come out with normal pressure- like the head bolts on flatties -he used to take a solid punch close to the head size of the bolt and give it good wack or two with a good sized hammer before trying to take them out again. I never needed to use this on the two Mopar flathead motors that i have worked on as they came out without excess force used. I have used this method though on other stuck bolts and it worked Most of the time cutting down the chance of broken bolts. DJ

My part interchange book shows 1940-1950 Plymouth (standard model) springs to be the same But does not show 1939. Are they different in some way? Some measurements as to unloaded spring height, coil wire diameter, outside diameter, maybe someone on the forum has one out of a 40-50 to compare? If the same then a new or used set of the Ford aerostar springs would be good to try out and cut as needed? This book usually shows all years that swap out regardless of year, even though the book is supposed to cover 1949-56 parts- all american brands that interchange. A long shot? DJ edit to add Plymouth as to this info.

so you did finally get Some response from them!! Facebook must be more important to them than your emails were! Good on Ya! DJ

The auto-reset breaker hooked into your wiring (see your wiring diagram) is over heated and opening the contacts. Opens the circuit and then rests to closed after it cools some. The breaker may be getting bad or maybe something is overloading it. What updates were done if any to the electrical system from stock? Even a bad ground(s) on some component can cause this problem. DJ

search on this forum for- water temperature gauge repair- There are some ways to do this show. Happy hunting. DJ

Hey, she is a smart girl. If things go really wrong, she is ready to bail out and leave it up to you to deal with whatever! LOL. DJ

I did not even look for replacement stock steer column to dash insulator, I just used some 1/6" or 1/8" thick bulk rubber fit stock (I forget which) I already had and cut to fit. I had much bigger things to deal with! DJ

Also be aware that there is a bushing at the top end of the steer tube to support the one piece steering shaft. These do not often have the wear you are describing, but could be worn. Pinpoint where the movement is. There is also a rubber insulator at the attachment point of the column at the dash mount point. The other forum posts can surely also have the effect of excess steer wheel movement. DJ

Boy yard work should be very little, no lawn,weeds. Food-jackrabbit, rattlesnake (just like chicken!). Scorpions-fun to touch on their backs with a stick and watch them poison themselves with their stinger! Cheap entertainment. Who needs water! I guess that must why people live there! DJ

You can look at what a company called Wilcap adaptors in a web search -to fit our Flathead motors to chevy trans. and also:http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=222. For mopar auto adaptors. Happy hunting, DJ

No. That one is made for the coil only. It will start off putting out almost full voltage and drop the voltage as it warms up. Full voltage for cold starts then lower to make the points last longer as it is not needed as car warms up. Do forum search on truck side And car forums for voltage drops for wipers. Keep on truckin' DJ

I just now did a Search of this (truck forum- start the search when on this forum) with just the title of "pertronix" and there is a whole page of posts with something to do with this topic. May some some info on other types of electronic ign. also,- I did Not take the time to really read them. That is up to you if you find some relevant info there. Also went to on the "car" forum and searched "electronic ignition" and another whole page of posts came up with some about other ways to get rid of points on the flat six. Also in the Resources in the main header line above click on that and go down to downloads you will see pertronix install and application per ignition distributor # as per your dist. tag on the dist body side tag. Happy hunting, DJ Edit to add some search info and to try to clarify searching on truck/car forum.

I like "chrome colors" also. DJ

Burgundy Red would look good with the silver. It's almost red, but different! As for the "trailer wheels", if he don't plan to do motocross, it'd say he is a least fine for the time being! DJ

(1) P-20's had the heater box under the hood with one fan mounted near the grille in front of the heater core box with a fiber tube to the firewall and some fancier models also had a second fan for good defrost function mounted under the dash. I like the idea however of replacing the under hood heater box with the heat/ac also mounted under the hood on the passenger side inner fender . How to hook up the heat/cool ducts to the interior would have to be figured out. Maybe Tim (PA) has done this?. Under dash area is extremely short-front to back- so a under hood solution is very appealing. Do a forum search on this forum to what several others have done to mount a compressor to the motor for the ac. That should give you some ideas of your own and the issues to be dealt with. I would certainly follow your journey with this as I also have a P-20 4 dr. I say go for it, but it's your time/money. Best of luck with this! DJ

If you want the truck to stand out at a show- -Red ! Edit- red you will probably fit in better? DJ

I thought I made a mistake once--I was wrong!..

Indian Shellac?? DJ

No wheels off the ground? Who needs one of those rotisseries? DJ

The choke should on close to 75-80% cold After the throttle opened slightly to let the choke and high idle linkage move in to the correct position if is adjusted properly. Has been posted here several times before how to adjust the choke. The electric choke will close it to 100% only when the starter is engaged and will drop back to the 75-80% closed after starter is released. Will slowly open to 100% open with manifold heat. DJ

The Cat ( the one that started the garage fire later ) was still smoldering after the torch work!

Sorry Don yours are "imperfects" so most likely only worth $500 each!! Sorry to be the one delivering the bad news, just don't kill the messenger! DJ

I did a quick ebay search in ebay motors/part for 1946-48 plymouth "oil pressure gauge and four showed up, used and NOS. 2nd search for -1946-48 plymouth oil pressure line- showed even more gauges and the rubber portion of the pressure line. Did not see the steel part that passes thru the firewall to the gauge with the Odd compression type fitting on the gauge end as mentioned in previous posts and where to find that. Perhaps posting a question to the used gauge ebay sellers to see if the also have available the line parts? Has worked for me a few times. Let your fingers do the walkin' and shopin'. DJ

Some NOS? or NORS day/night mirrors for our old Mopars show up on EBAY occasionally . My only real problem I have with them has been the price! Appear some would fit my 50 Ply. 4 dr.. Still happy with my fair condition stocker. $60+ ( + shipping) is not for me. I do not drive much after dark, but when I have, the eye surgery I have had gives me Some of that "starburst" effect when someones headlights get too close and those new "sunburn type of super lights make me turn my mirror some that I cannot see them at all. Not the best idea but I cannot see them anyway! The other thing I have tried versus moving the mirror angle is to put my daytime sunglasses back on! Just slide down in the seat a bit and Cruise! DJ

From 50 parts book. Appears just the seal is stuck. Maybe just a light heat to area of seal? #140,142,143,144 are seals. DJ