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DJ194950

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Everything posted by DJ194950

  1. Not sure what the bolt problem is but--- Maybe? check vintagepowerwagon.com as they sell this type of bolt on this site. Maybe discuss your issue? Best, DJ
  2. http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w268/dcolliau/Suburban/013_zpskpccwtmu.jpg What's the rear ac from and will it be controlled from the front? Very much would like to know what rubber weatherstrip you plan to use for the rear upper door to body and tailgate to body?? Thanks for any info! Nice work! DJ
  3. How about checking out vintage power wagons parts for a longer duration cam and heavier springs as a kit? Give them a call and discus with them about is this is what you are looking for? http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf 1 stop shopping and 1 shipping charge. DJ
  4. Thanks for all the info and especially all the time spent to get it on the forum!! DJ
  5. Jeff, You build it and they will come! Buy it!
  6. Bad breaker sounds possible as a short would cause this but the breaker is temp. tripped. But it takes some time to reset. A minute or more as it cools. Maybe just a loose connection is really more likely and works for a while while until shaken some more by driving more?? Think I'd start at the amp meter connections. Corrosion? Time to check some more, good luck.
  7. Having worked to 3, 49-50 Plymouth's which I understand are built much the same way but the Dodges are wider?. I'd start by removing All fillers (bondo) from the entire rocker panel areas. After doing so take a body hammer to all of them lightly and watch and listen to the sounds. Solid metal makes a ringing sound v.s. thin metal will make more of a dull thud. Holes may also show up.I'd also do the same to body mount areas inside floor near the rockers and top side door opening panels. Need to really know what is rusted before even tacking a piece of the repair puzzle. Very hard to weld new panels in with adjacent rusted parts. The order ( method -top, bottom, etc.) of replacement panels may become clearer when you know the extent of parts that need work. Good luck on not finding more work to be done. Also have found some nors replacement panels on E bay occasionally , But stay away from the new replacements from C to C Company. DJ
  8. Paul is Frugal, maybe to an extreme??
  9. 2nd. that! Posts in OT as the work progresses makes sense to me. Love your unconventional projects but they are Mopar related. DJ
  10. Often a greasy job as its all the #,s seem to hand stamped but are almost 1/4" high and fairly deep.(my experience on 4 only). As Tim stated, Never in one exact location- What fun! The #'s stamped are Most likely whats in the gears as it's just so much easier to change to whole third member as it is to just change the gears!. The factory would have the correct # even if optional ratio used. The dealer may have done ?? if someone wanted a diff. ratio. Price?, replace the whole 3rd. member or replace the gears only.?. Wrecking yard ratio change would almost guarantee a complete third member exchange as the price would dictate the 3rd. member vs. gears only change with labor and parts price to complete the change. A stock 3.9 will work well for you in the 55-65 mph cruising range When you get used the the radiator fan noise!. Others have done it for Many miles! Get it running and drive it some to see if whatever it has works for you, Enjoy, DJ
  11. My 1946-1950 repair manual shows p-15 rear Stock gears as 3.9 ratios. Station wagons were 4.1. Remember though- it was easy back then to get factory ordered or dealer installed ratios as wanted! Wrecking yards also had diff. ratio drop end third members also available as desired from Plymouth or other mopar brands as many easily interchange in this era. While the build sheet may be interesting it May not answer what rear ratio is actually in your car. Man my slow typing put me way behind in responses !!! DJ
  12. Hope you saved the dice for the time (if ever) Don makes it to 48Dodgers BBQ. Beautiful truck in fotos and in person! SWEET! DJ
  13. The electrical spark maybe from just a bad ground condition, made worse by lack of a second bolt holding the sisson choke to the manifold. Clean any rust off of the mounting sections of the choke flange area and use a star type lock washer under the bolt. These chokes do not often go bad. They are currently not cheap to replace, but have some reasonably ?priced Used ones on E-bay in the past, just watch that the choke arm is on the correct side when mounted as 2 differant ones where used. Early and later but the year change? repair broken off bolt- I have repaired several bolts by simply? drilling the correct size hole (#7 drill bit) to tap to a 1/4"nc bolt size and taped it to fit with homemade hi temp gasket material from the Napa store. Drilled hole May go into the exhaust manifold but does not cause any problems. Maybe desoto1939 also has just the gasket available?? More thoughts for you,good luck! DJ
  14. ranchracer- how did you get it apart? A punch or chisel on the pointed areas of the nuts? How tight were they? Rough edges left using that method removal can and DO leave behind raised areas of the nut(s) that can interfere with proper adjustments. Just a thought as others are Way more knowledgeable about these older Mopar Heavy trucks. I've worked in the past on some Dodge 6x6 ex weapons carriers from the 40's is all. Don't believe that they ran a preload pressure (Tighten to a certain torque), just Almost tight but not too tight? Room for the gear lube to get into the bearings? DJ
  15. Work for peanuts? Does that mean that he lives in the southern US?
  16. Also found a reasonably priced 80-140 wt. conventional oil (non-synthetic) that may work. MasterPro Chemicals 80039 - Gear Oil _ O'Reilly Auto Parts.htm Also talked to a friend with a 37 Ply. 4 dr. mostly stock (motors newer) that said he has always run a 90 wt.( or 80-90 wt.) gear oil in his trans. and rear end. He has owned this car for about 30 years. But has never driven it as far as this trip will be however. Very nice car! DJ
  17. found this for what its worth . Crossing modern oils, supposedly.
  18. GL 1 transmission only? Was available at Napa- 1 gal. container only a couple years ago. Rear end oil recommendation?
  19. Appears to a nice 49 Ply. grille ( at least) before the move to scrap! What a waste!
  20. Hope you live on some of the higher ground there. Hope the reef gives some wave relief. Best of wishes. DJ
  21. Are they the same brand name as per stamped into the rear side of the case? Maybe if so, but- maybe not- compare?? DJ
  22. Never had one on a Mopar car ( have 2 Ebay bought vac./fuel pumps ( old ) rebuilds that did not work waiting for rebuild) ) but did on a 54 Ford v-8 and the vac. pump/fuel pump totally replaces the manifold hookup to the wipers and ran to the pump only and would run at the adjusted speed via the wiper control no matter up hill, foot to the floor. Manifold vacuum no longer matters as long as the pump is in good condition. DJ
  23. Check the website or better call them and if they do find out about any limitations if any- stock radio. switch install, etc.. DJ
  24. Newport website shows all conversions to be 12 volt. They do sell a 6 to 12v. inverter but showed no price. They also cost around $150- $200, but are well built. DJ
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