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DJ194950

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DJ194950 last won the day on March 6 2022

DJ194950 had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ca.
  • Interests
    Old cars, younger women, ya right!
  • My Project Cars
    Attempting to finally complete this longtime project. many changes not fitting this forum as it has many Chevy and other parts. Just not aware of this forum or parts availability way back then . Wish I had known but I am here!
    Just redoing the front brakes are testing my patience and endurance. Still plan a rearend change to a Explorer or Jeep.
    50 Ply. Suburban, Hot rodded, 80 % done, on hold, w/ 49 ply. front end w/ grille -v-8 .

    May sell soon as I can no longer do heavy bending, lifting, etc.!

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  • Biography
    old cars are my phys. therapy
  • Occupation
    ex-construction equipment mechanic

Converted

  • Location
    modesto,ca.
  • Interests
    old cars

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  1. To drain a rear end with no drain - remove one or two of the lowest 3rd. member mounting bolts. They go through into the cavity where the oil is. If all studs remove a stud or two. Get'er done! DJ
  2. The spring plug like things? The plug like things shown on the bottom of that are just that-plugs - - Installed after springs were drilled and greased with a needle type grease fitting and the plugs were installed to seal the holes until the next spring greasing job. They did not come pre -drilled. Done at the dealer or home. Possibly listed in the parts list, I imagine could be on the accessories page ? I saw this way in the past in a 1946-54 repair manual that I no longer have- passed on with the Ply. 4 dr. I sold to a friend. I still have to learn how to drag pics from earlier pictures that were on a different page. Were are now on page two here. The picture was near the end on page one of this topic. To replace the bolt that has the round head in that pic that a regular bolt and grind the head to a round shape that fits will into the hole of the rear end mounting from where if came out. The threaded end can be cut to length as needed. A grade 5 or 8 fine threaded bolt will work fine. Have done this several times. DJ
  3. If I remember right a 1" or was it a 3/4" wood dowel works just fine! I rebuilt 2 R-10's some years back with the wood dowel doing just fine. Nothing fancy or expensive here. DJ
  4. The R-10 solenoids both the 6 V. and 12V. are identical in size mounting and easily changed one to the other. The other parts on the trans that involve electrical are not voltage sensitive. NOTE: I said on the trans. Used be some of both used solenoids on EBAY for sale. Also even though Randy has passed on the company he ran is still in business . So, Rundle may still be selling brand new solenoids both the 6 and the 12. Expensive but only place I have seen that has them. Do they still sell them? DJ
  5. Only if the computer is still being used though.
  6. Air grease. Available most everywhere.. some locations have many additives but still works! ?
  7. I would use the metal if in great shape. They look OK in pics but how much play is there when held over the ball. If reasonably tight use the metal if not I would not hesitate to use the "nylon " . Polish your balls before installation and all is well! ? DJ
  8. He can't show up if he is not invited. John-T will ya give Jay a call and invite him and his wife to come? Have never seen her at filmed shows but since this is a family type get together and maybe Tim can clear off a landing strip for Jay's jet on the back 40 and she can come along and bring something to BBQ? Jus' a thought. ? DJ
  9. Remove the rust by rubbing with some wadded up aluminum foil. Takes some elbow grease but does work well. Yes I have done it on a 47 Plymouth with rusty spot lights. Follow up with waxes as mentioned to keep it shiny. DJ
  10. If the flathead V8 is a ford there is nothing to gain over the Mopar flat 6's as the horsepower is the same and the mopar has more torque. Seems a waste of time . Rebuilding prices on the Ford are way out of site also! Stay with the proven winner! Just my opinion of course but you can look up the facts I have stated. DJ
  11. Word was that Wilcap has shut down and not selling their motor/trans adapters any longer but some other company has bought their leftover supplies and last I read 6+ months ago that companies website did not say whether they would continue to make new adpters. Suggest you web search the Wilcap name to see for yourself if interested. Some old aftermarket auto parts makes seem to dropping like fries these days. If you have been planning to buy something from one of the aftermarket suppliers but been stalling, I suggest you get off your - - - and get it done just in case! DJ
  12. That is Supposed to be the method of last resort! How are you supposed to learn if you start with that? ? DJ
  13. Was the bidding for trucks only.? Seems in the past that is was it was.
  14. Summit Racing sells at least three Different activators for the paints. One is for 80 degrees +, a second for 70-80 degrees and one for less than 70. So, what is it that you would lack besides the ESP to know ahead of time the temp. you will have at the time when you decide to do your painting. I usually bought 2 temperature activators to use depending on the temp that day and mix it if needed to get where I liked the flow out and set up time for the sprayed paint.. Do tests on cardboard first to see the spray before starting the actual parts painting. My 2 c. DJ
  15. That is what I did for a 50 Plymouth under hood type of heater radiator and had replaced by the shops choice of replacement out of a book they had that had the sizes and outlet types and they ordered one and did they replacement . Was not cheap for some reason I do not understand but it was was done and worked great- Also too hot in the car! DJ
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