52b3b Joe

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52b3b Joe last won the day on July 10

52b3b Joe had the most liked content!

About 52b3b Joe

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 11/16/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northwood, OH
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine.
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B
    1948 DeSoto 4 Door Custom Sedan: In Progress
    41 DeSoto
    61 Ford Galaxie Sunliner

Converted

  • Location
    52' B3B, 41' Desoto, 48' Desoto Curtice Ohio
  • Interests
    Antique cars/working on anything I can get my hands on and I fly RC planes

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Civil Engineer / Equipment Manager

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. You should be able to go off the serial number on the front left of the frame. It should match the cab unless the cab has been swapped.
  2. I put mine to work yesterday taking the doodle bug to a tractor show. With the trailer, I was pulling somewhere north of 4,000 lbs (probably closer to 4,500) It was in the upper 80's and even with the load it ran about 185F which is pretty darn good I think. I ran 55 mph highways doing around 50 mph with it. It did great. People really were snapping their heads around to look! I also added a period correct Kelsey Hayes electric brake controller to the truck for added safety. It look like it belongs in the cab, and it helps get the truck stopped. Taking off, it is a little slow going, but once you are to speed it is easy to maintain even going up over passes. You really need to run the engine up with my three speed to compensate for the large RPM drop from 2-3. It's not excessive but if you don't you struggle in the lower RPM ranges. Keep in mind I have a 3.54 rear end too. On my way home I had my wife take a video of me as I turned the corner by our house.
  3. Lol, revoke my truck membership?? I put too much time into my truck for that to happen! And besides that, I finally have all the bugs worked out of it! From what I understand, some kids broke into the garage the car was parked in sometime in the mid 70s and there were cinder blocks against the wall. They got the idea to pick them up and do some damage! You can see the outline of the blocks in the car! Lucky for us, the car has some thick metal to work with and I was luck to find a good used rear fender from a Chrysler that will work. Just need to fill an extra hole on the Chrysler fender for a rear bumper support.
  4. Thanks for all the comments! It makes me want to dive into the other side! Here is a picture the day I towed it home. When we bought it, it was stuffed in a garage buried under a lot of "stuff". The body looked good rust wise from what we could see (minus the drivers side dents) so we "assumed" it was pretty solid, but we were wrong. My dad and I aren't the type to turn down a project, so here we are. The car was a good buy. The interior is in very good shape. The car came with most every piece of NOS trim, and what wasn't NOS, the previous owner had parts re chromed already. Most of the NOS parts are in the original boxes and wrapping. We even have NOS bumpers. The engine came rebuilt, and we know who did the work. We are trying to make a nice driver, and as long as I can get the driver side body straightened out good enough for a Black car, we will have one! I'll post pictures of the drivers side damage when I get a chance.
  5. I thought I'd share my current project with everyone. I'm normally on the truck side, but my dad bought a 48 Desoto Custom 4 door a few years ago. We've been working on it VERY slowly mainly due to time constraints. The body has seen better days, the rockers were completely rusted out, and the drivers side of the car was vandalized in the 1970's (bricks were thrown at it). The sheet metal is pretty solid though, and the doors are rust free. When we bought it the engine was rebuilt in the late 70s, but they never fired it up. We got it running and drove it up and down the road. We went though the front end, resealed the rear axle, and rebuilt the brakes, so mechanically it is ready. Now all we have to complete is the dreaded rust repair and body work. I've never done anything this invasive on a car, but it wasn't too bad once you dive in. Over the 4th of July weekend, and last weekend I was able to get the rockers done on the passenger side of the car. It took a lot of time, but it is done. Don't laugh too hard, I'm not a welder or body guy. I'm just trying to make a nice driver. I'm ok with the results, so that's all that matters. Now I have one more side to do.... Pictures are below. I had to do a lot of other metal work under the car (body mounts and braces), the rear wheel well, and the front rocker/A pillar structure. A lot of it was rusted through and needed patches. It seems plenty strong now, and I think it will be good for another 50 years. I seam sealed and undercoated the inside of the rockers before welding the sill plates on. I'll try and post pictures every so often when I work on it but I can't promise it will be frequent.
  6. It was $105, and I bought it from PATC Transmisisons: 1-888-201-2066. The are a dealer for Clark Brothers. I used the Clark brothers catalog to figure out what I needed. I had a typo, it should be 7/8-18.
  7. It has 3.54 gears. It really surprised me, but I checked it against my phone and its reading right. My dad always comments about how quick it accelerates and how fun it is to drive. I have a Chrysler Industrial 230 in it. Its bored .030 over and I have no idea what the compression ratio is. I've never had a reason to check the compression.
  8. My repaired speedometer came in the mail today, so I put it in after work and took it for a drive. I finally have a usable speedometer in my truck! It's pretty nice knowing how fast I'm going without worrying or without a speedometer app on my phone. I drove about 20 miles, and it is pretty enjoyable! According to the speedometer app on my phone, my speedometer is reading 57-58 when my phone is reading 55. Up to 40 mph, they are both reading the same, but the truck speedometer seems to have some error over 40. I can live with the 2-3 off at 55 mph though! As a side note, with the speedometer issues I had, I could never get a good feel for the performance of the truck. Now that I can see the acceleration, it definitely has more pep than I thought! I guess I don't have anything to compare it to though.... Here is a video (it's not the smartest thing to take a video when driving so the video quality isn't the best):
  9. You would have to make some sort of cable adapters to make it work. The speedometer head has a smaller 5/8"-18 thread, so you'd have to somehow adapt to the 7/8"--16 thread of the adapter. I suppose someone might make an adapter for the 5/8-16 cables, but I'm not sure. I might be a little concerned with the drag of the adapter on the cable as it turns over that length of cable if mounting it at the speedometer. Having it driven directly off the transmission (or as close as possible) would remove any chance of added load to the cable. I don't think a speedometer cable will take a whole lot of extra load before failing, but I really don't know or have any experience with this. When I spun the adapter before it was installed, it was a little stiff but I'm guessing it will loosen up over time as the fresh grease moves around a little. Once I drive it some, I'll take it off and let you know if that is the case.
  10. Lol, it took a lot of time to get it that clean, but don't worry, it's getting plenty of road grime and grease on it already. It's getting broke-in. Yes it stays the same. It has a counter-shaft in the center to keep the same ratio either way. I don't see why you couldn't remote mount the adapter on the frame and have a short cable to connect it to the transmission. If it didn't fit on mine, I planned on mounting it somewhere on the frame. If you google "speedometer cable extension" you can find them for sale for $20 or so. The transmission end is a 7/8-16 thread.
  11. I received the speedometer ratio adapter this evening (it came faster than I thought)! It came in a large box which got me nervous, but luckily it was in a smaller box within! I tore the boxes open, and was still a little nervous about it fitting, but I put the appropriate drive cable adapters on (seen in the pictures) and it fits very well on the truck. I'm very happy with is so far, but I have yet to test it until I get the speedometer back from being repaired. Hopefully the speedometer will come back this week, and I'll have another report. Pictures are below! Warning, some of the pictures are turned!
  12. There are two things to look for when swapping these. 1) Make sure it has the same number of bolts/studs mounting the pumpkin to the axle housing. (I think they are either 10 or 11 hole) 2) You need to check the axle spline count of your truck and see if it matches the other. The only way to do this is to slide an axle out. There is a coarse (10) and a fine (16) spline style. I don't know if you can swap the pinion and ring gear between them or not, I've only done an entire center section swap. Look here:
  13. I always thought they took 6 quarts total (with a filter). 5 quarts for the engine plus 1 additional quart if you change the filter and drain the filter housing completely. I always use a 1 quart bottle pump to pump the oil out of the filter housing. Then I put the new element in and fill the housing with 1 quart of new oil before putting the top back on. This is from a B3B Drivers Manual:
  14. I hope I don't have this issue on my 3 speed, but going into it I knew it would be a gamble for that same reason. By the looks and dimensions they gave me it should fit. If it doesn't fit I plan on remote mounting it to the frame using a 7/8" transmission end on both sides of a short "jumper" cable. It won't be "correct" but I'd rather have an accurate speedometer.
  15. Will do. Mine is roughly the same. doing the math, I need my speedometer to read 1.1673 times the speed it is reading. I found that these people make them to mount directly the the transmission. Clark Brothers Insturments: http://www.clarkbrothers.net/ratio_adapters.html I bought the AA11667 part number. It was the closest. http://www.clarkbrothers.net/pdf/SC795_Catalog2_Page_4.pdf I'll let you know the results once I get my speedometer back from repair and install the adapter.