Rocket-bob

I have a plate that matches my truck, kinda. My truck is a 1952 but because of the Korean War and the shortage of metal, Kentucky did not issue plates for 1952, instead they issued 1951 plates and then issued a sticker for the windshield that matched the plate. Here's mine. BTW, this is why the '52's didn't have all the chrome trim that the earlier and later trucks had.

Yes, the marks are on the pulley. Maybe some light sanding with steel wool would bring them out.

I would love to see the return spring setup. I have considered creating one but have see the clearance with the cab.

As stated early on, I ran a CCP proportioning valve because I had a modern rear axle (though drum brakes) and the '52 brakes on the front. I wanted to be able to dial in brakes between front and back. I don't know what pressure gradient I used, I simply drove the truck and did some hard braking in curves to see if the rear got loose. I made a small adjustment but the brakes were about fine from the start. I would like to replace my front brakes with disc brakes but that is a later issue. I used the residual pressure valves to keep fluid in the lines. The goal was to remove pedal travel and snap back. While the clutch has a spring attached to keep it in a neutral position, the brakes do not. You can actually slam on the brake, have your foot slide off and the snap back can pull the guide rod out of the master cylinder. The residual valves cut down that snap back and the pedal travel.

Lostviking My setup is practically identical except the addition of 10lb residual valves. Looks great. I hope yours works as well as mine.

Seems like a run away topic while I was dealing with COVID. I used the Toyota Master Cylinder on my 1952 Dodge B3C so I can't talk to other master cylinders or vehicles. For me, it was a direct bolt in except for slightly enlarging one hole. I went back through my photos and have attached a couple that shows the hook up. These photos were before the brake lines were run and before the warning light was hooked up. I can't seem to locate the later photos. Anyway, I used the original dust boot and a slightly shortened original push rod.

3/16 SAE (standard double flare).

3/16 nicop line, with SAE flares. I replaced all hard brake lines as I replaced the rear axle with a ‘90 Cherokee rear axle (8.25 Chrysler). I simply used adapters to hook into the stock (but new) flexible brake lines. Hydraulics don’t care about line size just about whether those lines are full of fluid.

As I remember, the three holes lined up pretty well. I had to elongate the holes a bit, but it wasn't major surgery.

The 1" bore gives it a bit more pressure, which I like. I shortened the push rod by an inch or inch and a half if I remember. I used 3/16" copper nickel brake line because it's easy to work with. 10mm bubble flare are easy to find on Amazon, Ebay, or local shops (3/16 brake line = 4.7mm brake line) for example https://www.ebay.com/itm/202073979625?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1iy2mAIpMQbizGEeedma0bg27&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=202073979625&targetid=1262906534562&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014850&poi=&campaignid=12873833206&mkgroupid=123950846602&rlsatarget=pla-1262906534562&abcId=9300536&merchantid=8027054&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVWu43i-kpAjmiDDnseHaLqX8HUrMHuMcd8ME5mGrTVPUdk4E5rHoNIaAmLcEALw_wcB. Adapters for the 10mm to 1/8"-27 NPT are equally easy to find. I guess 4AN is a thing now too. I'm running stock brakes up front and I have a 90 Cherokee rear axle with stock brakes. I run to a CCP proportioning valve with 10 lbs residual valves on both front and rear. I can't remember the part numbers, I just called CCP and told them what I wanted and they went from there. I'm not sure I needed the proportioning valve as both systems are drum but it wasn't that expensive. I clearly didn't Frankenstein this up on my own. I had a Toyota Master cylinder hanging around on my shop self from my daughter's car and noticed the similarities to my Dodge MC. I search it on here figuring someone else had tried it. Indeed they had.

Maybe I'm late to the fight, but I went Toyota. Same bolt pattern, straight hook up. Toyota part number is NM55022. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/master-cylinder-brake-system/p/duralast-new-master-cylinder-brake-system-nm55022/486326_0_0

Front engine mounting bolts were 7/16-20 thread X 1. Thanks all.

Hey folks need some help. A funny thing happened at the paint shop. Sent the '52 B3C to the paint shop almost a year ago for a quick paint job and I now have it back. No, it's not painted. Rather, it is now in parts because the guy disassembled my truck, putzed around, damaged parts of the truck, and then proceeded to go out of business. I now have a disassembled truck to piece back together. Along with most of the truck, I got a plastic Folger's can full of rusty bolts that once held the truck together. Oh, and lots of bolts are missing. I had pulled the engine and transmission for rebuild prior to sending it off but sent the engine mounting bolts with the truck. They're gone. Does anyone know the size, length, and pitch for the two front mounting bolts for the engine? I'm pretty sure that I can order them from Fastenal if I can find the stats for the bolts. If someone knows what washers go with, it would be helpful as well. Thanks in advance.

I’ve been lurking on this thread but haven’t seen your plans for the truck. I notice the 6 cylinder badge on the nose and wonder if you plan to keep the original drive train or just keep the sheet metal?

Just for general knowledge, I bought 6 of those tiny washers from Len Dawson. The bill came to a cool $33. Caveat emptor. On the positive side, I'm ready to seal up this engine and crank it up. Video to follow.