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kbuhagiar

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Everything posted by kbuhagiar

  1. Rvannoy, Thanks for the info. Photos would be great, I'm sure others on here may also be interested. I'm not as concerned with the engine compartment bits as i am with the evaporator fit and installation. Which Vintage Air unit did you use, and how much fabrication did it require? Thanks.
  2. Thanks Oldguy, My car has been updated to 12V, so that's not a problem. Do they have a specific kit designed for a P15, or just a generic model? Any particular difficulties about the installation? Thanks again!
  3. Thanks pflaming, I have a VA unit in my 56 Chevy, and many of my gearhead buddies are using VA in their rides. FWIW the engine in my car is a V8, not stock.
  4. Hello Folks, I am considering installing AC in my 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe, and I am looking for recommendations for an aftermarket AC kit. Has anyone here successfully installed AC into a P15? If so, what vendor/kit did you use? Thanks in advance.
  5. 'Wholegrain mechanical goodness'. I gotta remember that.☺️
  6. UPDATE: For the record, I finally got around to doing this. There is no nut or other method to tighten the post. The spring is held in place with a fixed split washer. I was able to shim the spring to create more tension on the post, plus I also swapped the visors side-for-side. This seems to have fixed the problem.
  7. Craigdodge, Beautiful car! Welcome to the forum.
  8. Dang, I'm happy just to do five miles in an hour...Good job Nick! PS He is already making better welds than I ever did.
  9. Hi Adam, We went last year and it was incredible, but the traffic coming and going was horrendous. I'll be sitting it out this year.
  10. Hello Folks, The driver's side interior sun visor on my 47 Plymouth is loose, it will swing away from its normal 'parked' position when I take a turn. I'm currently away from the car for a few weeks, otherwise I would remove it and check myself, but can someone tell me it there is any provision for tightening the side-to-side axial movement (not the up-and-down, that is fine). Otherwise, is there a method for fixing this issue? Thanks in advance.
  11. Mr. Fargo, I certainly respect your opinion on what should or shouldn't be done to an old Plymouth. However, the 'tag line' at the top of the Forum site says: P15 - D24 Forum Mopar Cars and Trucks 30s to 60s Flatheads to V8s Stock to Custom Not arguing with your stance, but if this site is not welcome to customs, perhaps the owners/admins should clarify. Mr. Oldtimelamposhop: FWIW Most of us 'blasphemous' individuals take the hint very quickly and tread lightly in this forum.
  12. Hi Mark, I've identified all of the correct thread sizes/pitches. Now it's just a matter of determining the correct style of bolts (flanged, plain hex with separate washer, hex with integral washer, etc). I'm not picky about the source, and I don't have the patience to wait for a swap meet. As an example, our local Ace Hardware sells a variety of automotive body & special application bolts. Don't really care if they are from a Mopar or Ford or GM - if they are the correct size & style I'll use them.
  13. Hi Frank, I'm right on board with you on this one; I could care less about having the factory correct items (my car is FAR from stock), but I would like to know the most appropriate fastener for the application, in other words a flanged head bolt vs. a bolt with a flat washer and/or lock washer. I'll eventually figure it out for myself, just thought it would be nice to know how the factory did it and proceed from there. If all else fails I'll fall back to the old reliable standby: hex head bolt with a flat washer at every location.
  14. FWIW I always do my own research whenever possible. I would normally look this information up in the factory shop /parts manuals, but they are temporarily packed away and unavailable. I tried searching the web but came up empty. If necessary I'll put it all back together with what I have and replace the fasteners with the correct items down the road; just thought it would be nice to do it all at once. Anyway, thanks again for your assistance and support!
  15. Hello again, Just removed the radiator support from my 47 Plymouth. The previous owner, bless his creative soul, used a hodgepodge of fasteners to install it, and none of them appear to be correct. The eight larger bolts (four on each side) are 3/8 - 24. There are also four others (two on each side) that appear to be 1/4 - 20. And the six that hold the radiator to the support are 3/8 - 16. I am not sure of the correct styles or configurations that were originally used (flanged or not, with or without washers, etc) or lengths, and I don't have access to my parts manual (it's packed away in a moving box). I would like to revert to the original fasteners - or a reasonable facsimile thereof. Can anyone specify the bolt style/lengths used by the factory to mount the radiator to the front sheetmetal? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  16. UPDATE: Success! Before loosening the bolts I supported the front fenders with wood blocking on both sides above the bumper brackets, and scribed all bolt locations for reference. Loosened each bolt one at a time, alternating from side to side, checking to see if there was any stress on any of the bolts. The front sheetmetal did not move or droop at all. In hindsight I probably gave this way more thought than necessary...but better safe than sorry. Thanks again to all (Andydodge & DJ194950) who responded.
  17. Hi Andy, Thanks mate, yeah, it helps a lot. The support has got to come out, just trying to get an idea of what to expect before removal.
  18. So let me clarify my original inquiry... If I remove (or just loosen the bolts on) the radiator support, will the fenders droop? I only plan in having the support out long enough to fabricate a new radiator mounting system, or maybe, if possible, flop the radiator support support so that the mounting holes are facing the front of the car. Thanks again!
  19. Hello Folks, I need to remove the radiator support from my 47 Plymouth SD Club Coupe, and I am concerned about maintaining the front sheetmetal alignment. Is there a way to remove the support without disturbing the hood/fender adjustments? If not, any suggestions to help minimize re-alignment hassles upon assembly? Thanks in advance.
  20. Nick, No offense taken - at least certainly not by me. Our opinions are just that - opinions. Your preference is all that matters, the car will be beautiful in black. Go for it - just post lots of pictures!
  21. Not to hammer the point too much, but....Black is absolutely GORGEOUS when done correctly, and it looks GREAT...for the first five minutes after the car has been washed and detailed. Black is like a dust magnet - every little thing shows up. My first car, a 1968 Cougar, had an incredible black lacquer paint job, and looked stunning, especially with the chrome Cragar wheels, but the amount of effort it took to keep it looking nice was overwhelming. That was my first - and last - black paint job.
  22. Hello Crew, Nice to see the project progressing so well. Hard to think of any options short of replacement...I know that budget is a primary concern, but unless you have an inside connection to someone with serious fabrication/welding skills, it may be your only option. If you go that route you could probably keep costs down by adapting a column from a wrecking yard. You would need to modify the box end to accept the appropriate u-joint/rag joint. I'm sure someone on board here could chime in with which columns are easiest to adapt to a P15. Good luck!
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