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kbuhagiar

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    269
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About kbuhagiar

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South San Francisco, CA
  • Interests
    Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm still alive
  • Occupation
    **RETIRED** Telecommunications Manager

Converted

  • Location
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2-Door Coupe - South San Francisco, CA
  • Interests
    Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

636 profile views
  1. UPDATE: For the record, I finally got around to doing this. There is no nut or other method to tighten the post. The spring is held in place with a fixed split washer. I was able to shim the spring to create more tension on the post, plus I also swapped the visors side-for-side. This seems to have fixed the problem.
  2. Craigdodge, Beautiful car! Welcome to the forum.
  3. Dang, I'm happy just to do five miles in an hour...Good job Nick! PS He is already making better welds than I ever did.
  4. Hi Adam, We went last year and it was incredible, but the traffic coming and going was horrendous. I'll be sitting it out this year.
  5. Hello Folks, The driver's side interior sun visor on my 47 Plymouth is loose, it will swing away from its normal 'parked' position when I take a turn. I'm currently away from the car for a few weeks, otherwise I would remove it and check myself, but can someone tell me it there is any provision for tightening the side-to-side axial movement (not the up-and-down, that is fine). Otherwise, is there a method for fixing this issue? Thanks in advance.
  6. Mr. Fargo, I certainly respect your opinion on what should or shouldn't be done to an old Plymouth. However, the 'tag line' at the top of the Forum site says: P15 - D24 Forum Mopar Cars and Trucks 30s to 60s Flatheads to V8s Stock to Custom Not arguing with your stance, but if this site is not welcome to customs, perhaps the owners/admins should clarify. Mr. Oldtimelamposhop: FWIW Most of us 'blasphemous' individuals take the hint very quickly and tread lightly in this forum.
  7. Hi Mark, I've identified all of the correct thread sizes/pitches. Now it's just a matter of determining the correct style of bolts (flanged, plain hex with separate washer, hex with integral washer, etc). I'm not picky about the source, and I don't have the patience to wait for a swap meet. As an example, our local Ace Hardware sells a variety of automotive body & special application bolts. Don't really care if they are from a Mopar or Ford or GM - if they are the correct size & style I'll use them.
  8. Hi Frank, I'm right on board with you on this one; I could care less about having the factory correct items (my car is FAR from stock), but I would like to know the most appropriate fastener for the application, in other words a flanged head bolt vs. a bolt with a flat washer and/or lock washer. I'll eventually figure it out for myself, just thought it would be nice to know how the factory did it and proceed from there. If all else fails I'll fall back to the old reliable standby: hex head bolt with a flat washer at every location.
  9. FWIW I always do my own research whenever possible. I would normally look this information up in the factory shop /parts manuals, but they are temporarily packed away and unavailable. I tried searching the web but came up empty. If necessary I'll put it all back together with what I have and replace the fasteners with the correct items down the road; just thought it would be nice to do it all at once. Anyway, thanks again for your assistance and support!
  10. Hello again, Just removed the radiator support from my 47 Plymouth. The previous owner, bless his creative soul, used a hodgepodge of fasteners to install it, and none of them appear to be correct. The eight larger bolts (four on each side) are 3/8 - 24. There are also four others (two on each side) that appear to be 1/4 - 20. And the six that hold the radiator to the support are 3/8 - 16. I am not sure of the correct styles or configurations that were originally used (flanged or not, with or without washers, etc) or lengths, and I don't have access to my parts manual (it's packed away in a moving box). I would like to revert to the original fasteners - or a reasonable facsimile thereof. Can anyone specify the bolt style/lengths used by the factory to mount the radiator to the front sheetmetal? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  11. UPDATE: Success! Before loosening the bolts I supported the front fenders with wood blocking on both sides above the bumper brackets, and scribed all bolt locations for reference. Loosened each bolt one at a time, alternating from side to side, checking to see if there was any stress on any of the bolts. The front sheetmetal did not move or droop at all. In hindsight I probably gave this way more thought than necessary...but better safe than sorry. Thanks again to all (Andydodge & DJ194950) who responded.
  12. Hi Andy, Thanks mate, yeah, it helps a lot. The support has got to come out, just trying to get an idea of what to expect before removal.
  13. So let me clarify my original inquiry... If I remove (or just loosen the bolts on) the radiator support, will the fenders droop? I only plan in having the support out long enough to fabricate a new radiator mounting system, or maybe, if possible, flop the radiator support support so that the mounting holes are facing the front of the car. Thanks again!
  14. Hello Folks, I need to remove the radiator support from my 47 Plymouth SD Club Coupe, and I am concerned about maintaining the front sheetmetal alignment. Is there a way to remove the support without disturbing the hood/fender adjustments? If not, any suggestions to help minimize re-alignment hassles upon assembly? Thanks in advance.
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