48Dodger

For you to have a 2.20:1, you must have a 7 1/4 axle. I don't believe they put a 2.94:1 in the anything but the 8 1/4 for the M-bodies. If you want to improve your "off the line" performance I would replace the whole axle with something a bit tougher. Maybe find a 2.94 8 1/4 or, my favorite, the 8 3/4. Swapping gears in the 8 3/4 is fairly easy compared to other axle types. I'll have to look to see if the 2.20:1 ring is available for the 8 3/4. Might help for Bonneville...... 48D

Took a few weekends.....had a blast. No Pilothouses were hurt during this build. 48D

It appears to be a B-1-BQ I won't know sure til I have a chance to check the grille numbers.... 48D

Hey Dale, looks great! Are those original headlight trim rings? I like the look of 'em:D 48D

I think we were trying to miss the ATHS show in Plymouth, which we did..its 4/24/2010. The spring Fling is in Van Nuys outside of Los Angles. I don't think we were thinking about that one. 48D

Weather seems to be cooperating......it's raining now, but should clear up tomorrow and be 75 degrees day of the BBQ!

Sure thing Hank....I'll swing by! I'll send you a picture of me and Hank. . thanks again for the heads up. 48D

Fluxcore wire tends to be more aggressive than wire with a gas shield at the same setting. If you're going to spotweld with the fluxcore, point the nozzle down the bodyline to "thicken up" your surface. Clean the spot weld of the flux/slag (wire brush) between multiple start/stops. Got pictures? 48D

Yeah! won a Panel Truck off ebay! I saw that he lower the price, so I emailed him. Nice guy. I told him about our site and sent him a link to the youtube video of the truck BBQ. Guess I'm taking a road trip to Hemet! How mamy members can I meet along the way? Thanks for the heads up Dale. I will build this truck to tow my 1950 Bonneville Truck .....who knows how soon, but heck, gotta have a dream before a plan. 48D:D

That's awesome! Take a few pictures of the interior and front-end suspension. If your wife turns up the heat...you can hide it at my ranch! lol 48D:D

I'm 6'1 and have plenty of room. I can think of of few guys in the club who are taller and can't remember anyone complaining about the leg room. How much "tinker" are you planning on? 48D

I'm thinking of organizing a friday night sort of thing Jim. I need to tow Tom's truck to my place and clean up a bit. Otherwise I still have a few teenagers around to do the dirty work, lol. 48D

Whoooa.....little over 2 weeks til the BBQ! Looking forward to seeing everyone. 48D

I think that's a garbage can behind the truck...not a hood ornament. 48D

Nice work Hank. Guess it won't be long before you're tuning your suspension for maximum performance. See you at the next local Autocross event right? lol. Just for fun: I don't autocross, but here's a factory HP set-up driven by a guy crazier than me. lol 48D

Nice looking truck! How close are you to original? I think I see the "Ram" painted black and a single exhaust. 48D

You need to measure the compression and rebound to make sure you're getting the full benifit of your shocks. If your rate of compression is to slow (stiff) or rebound to slow (stiff), you'll have a pretty rough ride. Shocks don't carry the load but rather dampen the frame. Without shocks the frame would continue to oscilate til the energy disapates. Knowing how to "read" your ride is important to fixing the problem. Wheel hop and traction can tell you if your shock is doing its job. Your inital ride comes from the leaf springs. if you aren't happy with the first "bounce" (to much or to little), you may not be able to correct it with the right shock. With a soild front axle comes more of a "shimmy" due to bump transfer from one wheel to the other. Here's a good article to read about basic suspension concepts, another on shock design, and another on how to measure for the right shock. http://rqriley.com/suspensn.htm http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Tech/BeAGeniusShockAbsorbers/tabid/307/Default.aspx http://www.proshocks.com/srshocks/tech1a.htm 48D

Nice find Bud! I seem to have enough cabs around to give it a try...lol. Not like i don't have my hands full already. 48D

Look here first: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm Your numbers look a little different to me. Posting a picture would help. 48D

Just to let everyone know....I went to visit Tom and his family, to see how their progress was going on the truck. It was cool drivin up to his house to find his sons Jonathan and Patrick breakin a sweat with thier dad's friend Jack. All four of 'em were decked out in similar "cover alls" and just knockin out thier own picece of the truck. I was a kick to see a real family moment like that. Can't wait to see the Pilot-House when its done.....should be awesome. 48D:D

I agree Tod. I've seen several reports saying "he got it down to 50 mph and then was able to put it in neutrel...." what? He wouldn't blow the motor in neutrel, not with rev limiters.....so what gives? I don't own a prius, but geeees, put it on N, hit the brakes and turn the key off. I'll take a blown motor over a crash anyday....... http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2010/mar/15/toyota-runaway-prius-not-feasible "Toyota engineers also attended the investigation, and argued that the car's engine has a safety system that automatically cuts the engine power if both pedals are depressed at once." "During his drive, Sikes was told by the emergency services to put the car into neutral, but declined, saying later that he was afraid this would cause it to "flip"." Sounds like user error, or a Scam to me. 48D

Harrison Auto Electric (209) 466-8498 3245 N Wilson Way, Stockton, CA 95205 48D

Modern Automobiles use a ETC (eletronic throttle control) or TPS (throttle position sensor)which is/are closed circuts to the ECU (electronic conrtol unit). RF waves (TV remote or gargae opener) are not used to run the electric motors that do the actual work of opening and closing the throttle. Redunant sensors and computer control, tie everything together with cruise control, traction control, etc..... they call it "drive by wire" or DbW. I'm sure its the gas pedal design. Its the only part that is still human controlled, or should I say, a "mechanically controlled system". 48D

Its actually a huge subject matter. Shocks don't hold the load but rather dampen the chassis. Optimum is 15+ off vertical with the lower mounting location close to the wheel. As the shock leans more off vertical it losses its compression value...in other words you'd have to increase its compression numbers. So really in the case of our trucks, its the need to "get out of the way" that determins upper mounting location. If you want to consider axle loads in turns and launches (ie circle track, drag racing) then it can have a bigger impact as to the angle forward, back, in or out etc. An adjustable shock (mount or shock itself) will hellp in controling wheel hop and the basic feel in the handling in the turns. 48D

I would happily own a second copy. 48D