pflaming

You two saved me a lot of work. It is easy to fix things with the engine out. Shifter was not correct so I was able to get the forks where they belong. That done, now the linkage. My 'bishop' is on the side (photo). I do have a rod with an eye bolt end but there must be a second rod (something) to connect to the tranny. Studied your pic and I see where the bolt replaces the bishop. Will now install and figure it out. Thank you for the help. Nice wiring! I have to 'cosmetic' mine. Will do that when the engine is in. WOW! So much to do and so much DETAIL!

Been looking through 'search' for some pictures of the linkage from the steering post down to tranny. Found nothing. What I hung on the wall just does not match. One rod has an eye on one end as if a rubber grommet went in it and pushed over a 'ball head'. I only have two 'rod linkages' seems something is missing. These reach down to the tranny. Also, one lever on the tree speed attaches to a shaft that enters the tranny horizontally, and then points to the floor, it changes gears, gets neutral etc. The other lever is more horizontal and is 'loose' into the tranny as if it works by pushing down on ???? Pictures and . . . appreciated.

Don, Mine is snug but not tight. Still out of the frame. I think I will pull it back out and put the emory cloth to it. What tightens them up? Since it sat for 20 years, can they get a bit 'corrosive' i.e., rusty? Will emory cloth hurt anything. Looked for pictures of the tranny linkage from the steering post to the tranny. Can't find anything.

Hank, I'm all ears on your question. My engine is out of the frame on a stand, I just installed the tranny. Do I need to torque the nut inside the e-brake drum, if so how much. I sprayed the shaft the throw out housing slides on. Wonder if I should have put grease on it. Next will install the engine in the frame, now looking for pictures of how the linkage rods connect from the steering mechanism to the tranny. Headed for 'search'.

Welcome to the club. I had to get a different head! To find my leak I took the air hose to it and with small blasts could quickly wisk away the water and then see exactly where the problem was. On the second fill I poured the water a lot slower. It may just be a bolt that needs some water sealer and the air trick might save you a lot of work. Good luck! "Close only counts in horse shoes"!!!!

Yes, noticed the bearing was backwards. Went back after dinner and 'urged' it on with small hammer. It is VERY SNUG! I think it should slide back n forth without much effort. May take some emory cloth to the shaft and see if there is a 'burr' on the edge of the housing. Want to get the engine/tranny back in the frame this week. Question: With th engine running, is it possible to run the gears and sortof check out the clutch and tranny or is that too much torque on just floor blocks?

About to reattach the tranny. Note where the pencil is pointing. Observation: the bearing and its housing do not slide all the way onto the shaft. Its been a long time since I removed this tranny. Question: Is there something between that housing and the end of the shaft or is the shaft shinny because it is always in oil? Found a rear seal from Northwest Tranny, it's a very nice one, not inexpensive though.

The cross members go in only one way,i.e., the holes on the bed sides. I just matched them up and drilled holes and mounted the cross members. Then I drilled them remaining holes from the bottom. I stood the bed on end, may be a bit more difficult with individual boards. The bed holes then are obvious for they are in the cross members. Study the bed, it shows where things go. Good luck.

Brian: Does this help?

It works so well thinking of putting a pulley on the block and run a rope into the cab. Seriously, it starts on the second hit with a six volt battery. Good timing and good plugs make a difference.

Update: The engine ran rough at first: today set the gaps on the plugs, they were not even, attached the front motor mount and stablized the mount, lowered the float in the carb and "bingo" it runs smooth. After it was warm did some adjusting of the valves. The link below shows the results. Gonna put it in the frame next. Enjoy!

Update: The engine ran rough at first: today set the gaps on the plugs, they were not even, attached the front motor mount and stablized it better, lowered the float in the carb and "bingo" it runs smooth. After it was warm did some adjusting of the valves. The link below shows the results. Gonna put it in the frame next. Enjoy!

Seal from Vintage was INCORRECT. When contacted they did NOT have one for me. Went to MOTION INDUSTRIES this morning to get one, they couldn't find a match. Going to NAPA tomorrow, can't install the tranny til this is fixed.

Wow! Sounds great, I am envious but I will get mine like that too. I really enjoy hearing the old flatties run, got a unique sound, like a Johnie Popper has it unique sound also.

Greybeard asked me to keep posted so. . . timing was way off, got that in line via (a) static timing, then ( timing light. That made a big difference. It still is too rough. Going fishing tomorrow then will put in high test gas on Thursday, set the idle a bit higher and let it run. Maybe the RICH mixture has things abit carboned up and a faster idle, better gas, and 30 - 45 minutes will smooth it out and maybe the valves are have not found 'home' yet either. I did NOT change any electrical when I changed the pistons. On the first run, as shown in my video, that engine did not rock one iota. So new pistons, rings, and reseated valves and the timing was way ( full inch + ) to the right of the timig mark. We had to adjust the dizzy from the back then the front to get it. QUESTION: Will new parts impact timing? Does the friction of new pistons and rings trickle back and 'ask' for new time to fire? This has been fun, educational, and perplexing at times but well worth the learning curve. Any suggestions to getting a smoother run will be appreciated. After thought: Maybe I need to check the valve clearances, warm it up, check valves then let it run.

Hank, running plug wires with filiment, don't like them but they worked fine when I started up last fall so current rough running shouldn't be the wires Yes, did use 'grounding' powder to reseat the valves QUESTION: The distributor shaft has a flat 'blade' on its end. Does it go into a gear or into 90 degree slot? If there is a gear in the oil pump, is it possible to be a gear or two off? A mechanic friend suggested I look into this. I did remove the distributor and did rotate the crank shaft when I did the piston/rings.

Compression test: # 1 90, #2-#5 85, #6 95. Engine was cold and cranked with a 6 volt battery, so the new rings and pistons made a hugh difference. Started it with a 6 volt battery, started on the first cycle, WOW! I was impressed. Ran it for 25 minutes this morning. Oil pressure 45# and steady, heat to around 160 degrees and steady, no oil leaks, no water leaks so the new 'freeze plugs' held and cleaning out the gunk made a big difference also. Shut it down retorqued the head and manifold, will recheck the valves next. It runs rough and rich so need to work on the timing and carburation. Engine pictures: I cleaned the block, clutch housing, etc with oven off, degreaser, steel brushes etc., treated them with the rust converter from ACE hardware, and the three coats of clear. I made the mistake of sandblasting the head and lost the old rust patina, but the rust converter gave a nice deep gray so I clear coated it three times and it works. I think this 'color' scheme will look good in the new semi-gloss black engine compartment. Since I am not going to paint the body, I thought a none color engine would compliment the 'patina' theme. Got some cosmetic things to do but making headways. One thing is certain, this engine won't rust, water just rolls off, so should clean nicely also. I did the same to the tranny and brake master cylinder. Still lots to do but jumped a major hurdle this weekend. Hope this meets your approval. When I get it tuned and in the frame will video it.

Frankie, tried that last time, tipped the engine over and lost all the oil. This time I think I will just move the garage. Seriously, was reading up on 'static timing' and saw "heat riser". My old manifold innerds do not have those parts. At one time I was lead to believe the heat riser was for cold climates and not needed in warm climates. The "Techinical Tips" do not agree. Question: Do I need to put in a heat riser?

Well, it's running again. Pulled it down put in new pistons, rings, cleaned the valve seats, got a different head and this afternoon got it running again. Oil pressure still at 40#, temp went to 180, (used the existing thermostat, ???) and ran it about 5-7 minutes. The makeshift tail pipe did not reach out the door so had to shut it down. Preliminary observation: running a bit rough, we think the plug wires are questionable, but it sounds much quieter. I have NOT readjusted the valves but reseating them may have changed things abit. Will extend the tail pipe tomorrow then restart it and let it run for at least 30 minutes at a nice even idle. Then shut it down and retorque the heads. How long should I run this oil? The engine will not hit the road for a while so should I just save my money until I can test drive on the road. Will do another video when it is tuned up. I have a lawnmower gas tank as source, holds maybe a quart at most. I fill it about 1/2 so say a large pint. At medium idle a pint of gasoline is gone in about 5 minutes. That has to be far too rich, too much usage. I rebuilt the carb: I do not have the air cleaner on. I turned the carb air valve full in then 1 1/2 turns out, any other adjustments I should consider? Any suggestions of NEXT steps are welcomed!

Question: Do you have CAD drawings for that radiator mount. Looks like a good way to check things out before putting the 'dog house' back on. Good work, enjoyed the video?

Is the grill custom or rare? I would prefer a black front bumper, the eye-bolt tie down is a bit rinky-dinky, and he has two sets of guages. For that kind of money one would think he would have had the original guages restored. Yet it does turn the head. NICE!

In an earlier thread I noted I needed a different head one with an internal water port. The pictures are of the two heads. The old one has been rust proofed (note bottle from lumber yard) and clear coated, the new one just rust proofed today, it needs to cure and will change color. Note several differences: Radiator neck on the old one has two bolt sizes, The new head has three attachment bolts vs two for the old one. The new one has a "P" either for power or plymouth. Will be mounting tomorrow. Just thought the two along side each other might benefit someone looking for a head and this shows some differences. And I now have an extra head, all milled and rust proofed.

Anyone ever heard of carsponsors.com? I saw thier ad and registered until they wanted $$$. I was approved for a few thousand dollars in items from wheels to. . . . mostly assessory parts, it appears. I did not send $$$. Today they called me. . . Interesting. They wanted $99.00 to pass my name on to the participating sponsors. , I still have my money

Would that make one eligible to drive in the 'car pool' lane?

If that were mine I wouldn't change a thing! NICE.