Jump to content

pflaming

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9,443

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    57

 Content Type 

Everything posted by pflaming

  1. pflaming
    It might be interesting to buy two of those throwaways. Put one in with a fresh oil change, then run the truck for an hour or so, remove the filter and cut it in half. Then put in the 2nd filter and run it till the next oil change. Then disect it and compare.
  2. pflaming
    Watch his prices, he wants $12 for a 52 Dodge taillight lens. I got two from my parts house for $4.00 each.
  3. pflaming
    I'm in Reedley, California
  4. pflaming
    I got my wheels painted and the new clips on. I used 3/8' bolt nuts and all is fine. The color is a little brighter than I thought but with beauty rings and caps they will look fine. Those 60# tires and wheels wear on old man out. I only have one ring, got four more spoken for.
  5. pflaming
    I bought an '84 Buick 4 cyl car in '84. That engine got a true 30mpg. Question, did Mopar make a good enconomical 4 cyl engine in past years?
  6. pflaming
    MBFOWLER: Didn't some use the spot light for the same purpose, especially if it was mounted on the top of the cab, which by the way is another means for a backup light.
  7. pflaming
    Why not just place some type of motion sensor on a rear wheel or the drive shaft?
  8. pflaming
    I've asked the same question. I do not see much night driving for my truck so that's not an issue, however a single brake light in the bottom of the rear window interests me. I think the driving public notices that more than the brake lights and I think safety studies confirm that. Or maybe a horizontal one mounted just below the window with the wire into the cab. But what do I connect it to, the wire coming out of the brake switch?
  9. pflaming
    Stowed What!
  10. pflaming
    I've hung my oil flter canister on the garage wall. Only the oil that WANTS to go to the fllter does, all the oil is not forced through it. To me it's just another possilbe source of oil leak, it's messy to change, and it's always in the way. Today's engines are different but while the argument that every little bit helps is meritorious, it's not necessarily one to abide by. Just do like they say in voting, "change early, change often". JMHO
  11. pflaming
    I put the GM clips on my wheels today and confirmed that they are too short. They will hold a plymouth cap, the one with the ship on it, but not the Dodge cap. However, some spacers to lift them will work, so . . . lumber yard is closed.
  12. pflaming
    Turn signals, I think my problem is minor, maybe only the flasher, I just lost 'electrical' patience. Does that make sense?
  13. pflaming
    I very closely followed Antique Cellar's instructions, which are VERY good, and with the starter fixed. I'm running again!. I had some minor inline connections which I fixed and I added a filter before the pump. Rebuilding a pump is not a big deal. I ordered two kits so will rebuild a 2nd and put it with my spare starter under the seat, along with tools required to fix both. A short socket REALLY helps with those bolts. With tape wrapped around that sprocket one can turn the bolts easier and FASTER. I painted it yellow and stowed it away.
  14. pflaming
    IT"S RUNNING! I think my starter problem was a combination of: very worn brushes, a weak cable to the starter, a battery the barely held a charge. So I now have a new larger battery, a new cable, and a starter with good brushes and it spins like a top. I hated to get that new battery, but . . . a big thank you to members who walked me through this.
  15. pflaming
    So that's the route the cable takes from the batt to the starter. Thanks, did you go to the engine or the frame with the other one?
  16. pflaming
    Jeff, that is what I've decided to do. Celler knows more than I do.
  17. pflaming
    I'm sitting here studying the instructions from Antique Celler. My pump has the old rare style valves. Celler substitutes a rivit, spring, and a soft "rubber" plate valve. My pump has the old "impossible to find" valves. I'm wondering if I should keep them and just replace the diaphram. Edit: after re-reading the entire instructions I'm going to use Cellers rivit style valvues. They are quite convincing in their instructions, which are easy to understand. It is obvious these are not overseas people which is refreshing.
  18. pflaming
    I rode 12 miles to school in '38 chevy pickup with no heater and poor floor boards. Then Dad bought a '50 chevy pickup, that heater was like heaven. Point is, a tight cab heats up quite quickly but cools as fast with holes in it.
  19. pflaming
    How sensitive it is to adjust? That looks like a bolt in modification and reasonable too.
  20. pflaming
    Why not, they do in Chicago,
  21. pflaming
    So then, they both are electronic distributors, just different mfgrs? EDIT: Don what is the source of the dual points and estimated investment?
  22. pflaming
    What is the difference between Petronix and HEI?
  23. pflaming
    What will be your route? Same going back? All the 'left coast' members are pulling for you.
  24. pflaming
    To get the hitch out of my '89 S-15 Blazer, I had to remove the bumper. So I laid it on top of mine. It would fit perfectly, the length is perfect.
  25. pflaming
    Old Daddy's front disc brakes, 98 Cherokee rear axle, 98 cherokee dual master cylinder, one less leaf in each spring, 15" wheels;WILL add an electronic distributor and radiator fan,. Gets hot in this valley.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use