ol'skool

Before I left, I checked the adjustment for the base plate to the engine block. It was all the way counterclockwise. Loosened it, set the bolt near the middle and tightened. Went back checked timing, now it was retarded. Loosened bolt on underside of distributor and set it at 4 degrees and it runs much better, even at 430-450 rpm it stays running. That tells me that the pertronix wasn't firing at the right time. That whole lobe sensing was messed up. I'm going return it and get my money back on it. I'll do a complete check and make all the necessary adjustments, i.e. dwell, timing, carb mixture screws, etc. Maybe take it for it's first drive of the year tomorrow or Sunday if I have time. So I am going to have to install a ballast resistor too. I have no idea if the coil is internally reduced or not. It doesn't say on it or stamped. I don't want to fry the points. Going to have to install one of those also.

Ok. Got the breaker plate in with new points/condenser, cap and rotor. Got it running. Barely ran. Checked timing, it was so far advanced I could barely see the mark. Retarded the timing, idled better but I'm all the way to the stop on the base of the distributor. Going to check the bolt to the block and see if I can get more adjustment to retard it even further. I would like to get it in the 3-5 range. It is running better. It did smooth out and idled better at 450 rpm range. Still have to set dwell. Right now timing is 9 degrees, can't retard timing anymore. Looks like the pertronix unit was really messing with timing. I swapped everything out leaving the distributor in the car so I know the timing wasn't messed with. Until tomorrow....

Yeah, the vacuum ready sucks, literally, 12-14. Only way I can get it up to normal is advance the timing to 10 degrees. Then it jumps to 18 and idle great and is responsive.

Finally, was able to check for TDC. Mine is dead on between the marks and number 6 cylinder check. I can set the timing at 4 degrees and set the idle at around 500-525 and it runs ok, stumbles off idle then smooths out. Any lower idle or timing then it runs like crap and starts to stall out. I got a new breaker plate with points. I think I'm going to put that back in and see if it improves. First, I'm going to check the vacuum advance and make sure that's working properly. My understanding is that it's a ported vacuum source from the carb.

Yes, that's what I'm thinking part of the problem may be. I fried a pertronix last fall on an old pontiac. It didn't have a ballast resister so I didn't worry about it until I came across an article that they used separate wire that reduced the voltage to the coil. It was too late for the pertronix by then. Put the points in with a ballast resistor and the car ran so much better.

The cap and rotor are correct for the car. They are older so I ordered new ones today. I'm going to change out the coil to a similar one to the pertronix flame thrower. Just thinking possibly the coil I have is internally reduced. I couldn't find anything on that when I looked it up and there isn't any printing on it stating either way. I know the pertronix likes a full 12V to it. They say bypass, get rid of any resister. Also going to locate TDC and check reference to the timing pointer/marks. That will be tomorrow though.

That is correct Don. Mine does that. I'm wondering if the metal hold downs have lost some of their tension. I did come across an old article about that on these IAP distributors. Here's part of it: •DISTRIBUTOR CAP POPPING OFF CORRECTION (Early "IAP" & "IAR" Distributors): May be caused by one or both of the following conditions and can be corrected as indicated: Distributor Cap Hold-down Spring Clips Incor- rectly Formed—Lip at upper end of spring clip fit- ting into recess in cap may have too large a radius to permit spring to seat securely in cap recess. Cor- rect by pinching the spring together at the end. Ruptured Vacuum Control Unit Diaphragm (al- lowing fuel vapor to collect in distributor and blow cap off when ignited by spark)—Install new vacuum control unit and make certain that mounting brack- et has ventilating hole on underside (see illustra- tion) . If bracket does not have this ventilating hole, drill a 5/32" hole at this point. NOTE—This ventilating hole provided in produc- tion on later distributors.

I've been thinking about checking the timing like that Plymouthy Adams. I did remove the plug but there is debris plugging up the hole. I'm debating about drilling small hole through the stuff but don't want to push the crud down into the cylinder. My comment to Don was that I have 2 uni-sync and I even have a 3rd type synchronizer. I know not to use them like that. The idea had crossed my mind that I do that but I would have to calibrate them both on the same carb and then go from there but it seemed like time was wasted that way. Might have made it easier to sync.

I will check into the rotors. I know the distributor is a donor from another car. The one that was in mine was rough so I got a donor out of a 51 or 52. If I remember right, I have the rotor without the counterweight. These are the 2 that are available from rock auto as they get credit for the photos. I'll have to check. I see the rotor without the counterweight is for an IAT distributor, mine is an IAP so that could explain. So if they both fit the distributor, why would the one cause an issue with idling.

Carbs are synced. Running 180 degree t-stat. Aluminum radiator-New. The temp runs 170-180 and the 25 miles I drove it last year didn't go above 180. Yes, it was idling poorly then also. I had tuned everything that I could the best that it would go last fall. I will be rechecking carbs, setting idle mixtures, checking compression, checking plugs. I don't know if this maybe the cause and that is I read there is a difference between the IAP and IGC distributor caps or something like that. Might have that mixed up. I know mine doesn't feel like it's secured on the distributor. I have to check into that. What is the difference between the caps, they look identical? Thanks Don, I have 2 of the Uni-Sync synchronizers. Right now with the timing advanced, it idles really good but I know I can keep it that far advanced. Is there a chance the lower crank pulley is off. Mine has a slight wobble to it. Still trying to locate one. Could the outer ring have slipped, it didn't feel like it could have when I inspected it.

The gauge moves a little bit. From what I could tell it was in that range. It wasn't fluctuating like it was before I advanced the timing. It did hold fairly steady.

If I set the timing back to the recommended range, it doesn't idle, and I have to set it(timing) well above the recommended setting just to keep it idling on its own. By advancing the timing, it helped but the underlying issue is there.

Been dealing with an idle issue since a rebuild and modifications. List of modifications, 1. Dual Carter B&B carbs on a stock split intake 2. 12v negative ground 3. Petronix conversion Stock engine rebuild. Block is dated 1952. 218ci from a Plymouth. What's been happening is the idle is poor. Rough. It smooths out very nicely, accelerates nice and smooth and car cruises very nice. Timing is set at 2-3 degrees. Vacuum reading was 13 Can't set idle less than 525-540. Anything less, it stalls. Fire right back up. I advanced the distributor and idle smoothed out and sped up. However, the dizzy is turned as far as it can go in the slot. I know the timing is probably in the 10 BTDC. I haven't checked it to get an exact number. Using a stock 12V coil, no ballast. I ordered an original replacement distributor breaker plate with points/condenser. Thinking about changing back to points. I've had issues with pertronix in the past. Distributor is an IAP-4103A if I remember correctly. Trying to get an idea of where to start. It idles great now but the timing is too far advanced. Don't want to drive it until I get it dialed in. The vacuum now reads 17 -19 range. Any ideas?

After nearly 35 years the 218 came to life in my 1941 P11. Everything is going great with it. I have put a few miles on it but would like to drive it more. The crankshaft pulley wobbles and i really don't want to drive it a lot until I get this repaired. Mine is the stamped steel pulley. The 218 is out of a 1952 Plymouth. I was looking through the "store" here on this website and they have a pulley and hub listed for the 218/230. My question is will this work for my application or they not interchangable. I use the wide belt, about 5/8 wide. I know I could try to straighten it out and I may end up going that route but not sure yet.

Will the OD from a 1938 Chrysler Coupe fit my 1941 Plymouth. My original 3 speed is good condition but would like to upgrade. I came across this one.