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ggdad1951

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Everything posted by ggdad1951

  1. heh, now that I look at your phote of your firewall, makes me think of what mine looked like over by the heater box area...multiple holes punched thru for various trys and refits of heater boxes....
  2. I still don't get how rat rods are street legal anyhere!
  3. Find the cross bar that lines up with holes on the angle brace on the bed side near the rear wheel well. You might have to use a clamp to pull the bed sides together to get the holes to line up between the two parts. Once aligned, mark the bolt holes. At this time also mark all the hole locations for the bolts that go in the angle braces on the sides of the bed. Also mark the hole locations on the middle boards by the front of the bed box. MAKE SURE the boards all space out properly to the holes in the cross braces! measure the hole locations off the frame CAREFULLY! Check squareness of frame as well. Take your boards and measure out the hole spacing for the rest of the bed mounting bolts. These bolts should all line up on a line at the same distance from the edge of the board. You SHOULD have one of the measurments line up with the second cross brace holes you marked towards the rear of the bed near the wheel wells. You can take your old bed boards and lay them over the marked hole locations as a double check. The bed wood WILL change in width from cracking, warping and shrinking, but over the length they should stay close to what you need. Carefully mark all your holes with a center punch and drill out all the holes. Then using a router and a straight edge route the grooves for the bed strips, mine were 5/8" wide and a little over 1/8" deep. I made a jig to use a router bit with a follower bearing to route out the holes for the large 3" washers for the bed mounting bolts. next step: paint (for me) or stain and lacquer
  4. thread to document building FEF's truck bed with some (hopefully) helpful hints. save your old boards, even if in bad shape. They are very useful as templates and reference get good quality wood and rip and plane to the proper thickness. My 4 center boards are 7 3/4" wide and the outside boards are 10 1/2". planed to thickness of 0.82" using your old bed boards trace and cut out the wheel well indents, you might have to trim a little bit after dry fitting test fit the outside boards and trim as needed place all your boards and space accordingly for the bolts for the bed strips and check the back rail for proper spacing as well use your old boards to mark when the support rails belong under the wood align the front cross bar to the holes on the angle brace on the sides of the bed, then mark the bolt holes from the cross bar. This becomes the basis for the rest of the hole locations.
  5. spent the day getting the wood machined down and ready for paint. I plan on a thread to document all this. I spent a while talking to Hank's best buddy yesterday. Yes Hank he remembers you! Bruce gave me a few pointers that I utilized today and will explain in the thread.
  6. sad but really cool at the same time. Hope you have fun!
  7. yes hank! such a man crush! I actually got a bunch of the unique fasteners from him for the fenders and some other odd stuff. Just got back from the 4 hour round trip for wood for the bed...nice white oak, NO knots....I almost feeel bad that I'm gonna paint it....but I can always pop them out, plane 'em down and stain lacquer if I want. My bed strips are the correct shape from Midwest Military, but I'm ordering some stuff from him today so I'll see if he has any hints for me.
  8. off my phone...super slow this AM. they are in my post below.
  9. I'll post some of my rebuild after I get home with my bed wood....photobucket is loading SLOWLY the pictures I took. as promised:
  10. since I am going for "original" and using the long bolts that's what I'll do...make life a LOT easier than putting it together and taking it all apart again for those 8 holes!
  11. so if I need to move the bolts/bed, slot the holes on the frame rail instead?
  12. I asked the question earlier in another thread, but didn't seem to garner a response, since I'm picking up my bed wood today and will be working on it this weekend I have questions: do you transfer the old holes for mounting and let 'er buck? OR do you put the bed together and set it on the frame spacing out the fenders w/ the running boards, mark the hole locations and remove to put the holes and washer relief's in? I can see logic in both ways. Thanks!
  13. safety first! YIKES! Looking good, will watch with eager eyes as you progress!
  14. is the throw out return spring working properly? I'd think the armature retracting sometimes, sometimes not would cause that symptom? If you need it worked on: B & M Service Inc (612) 521-3990 1501 Washington Ave, Minneapolis, MN 55411 does good work.
  15. looking good! Starts to feel like a truck again at this point if you ask me!
  16. I can get you a tracing of mine if you want.
  17. oil pan front seal as far as I know. we even put some RTV seal on this time to try and stem the leaking...must just be the way it is...
  18. well took FEF out to the local Culver's Monday night car show last night...all worked well, and of course this morning there is oil from the front seal....sigh, so much for solving that issue with the swap.
  19. I modeled one and made templates: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/hub_wrench/wrenches.htm
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