cavisco1

Panduit still makes the metal ties.

He sure loves to use a hammer!

I had this same issue with a water pump bolt on a 3800 Buick. The Permatex thread sealant did the trick.

The 4.0ls are very common in wrecking yards. If you go through with this swap, take lots of pictures and share. Scott.

There is a member on here that has a B series with an AMC 258 and 904 auto, same length as the 4.0L. Firewall was not modified and uses stock fan. I think it was GRAMPS1951

Somebody remembers the show "Rumpole of the Bailey"! You are correct sir! A great series with lots of dry clever humor. You have to listen closely or you will miss the funny bits.

Those domestic machines can be handy at times. I ran some used pistons through the dishwasher and was not caught by SWMBO. The pistons turned out real nice BTW. Scott.

Touche sir! My hat is off to you.

Frank, The original poster is refering to the cylinder bore when referencing liner. The original poster is from Germany where wet or dry liners are common on diesel engines. English is probably his second language. I've seen this reference to cylinders as liners from northern Europeans on several forums. I have been told that English as a second language can be rather difficult, so I typically just overlook these small differences in diction. Take care, Scott.

Since you will be going to 12v there are a number of options available including Pertronix, Mopar, GM HEI, Langdons Mini-HEI, and Ford TFI. Non of them are plug and play except for Langdons Mini-HEI. Pertronix requires modifications to the distributor. The Mopar and GM HEI require modifying an electronic ignition slant six distributor with some parts from a flathead distributor. The Ford TFI can be triggered from the flathead points distributor. If going with the Ford TFI, be sure to get a later model remote mounted module (1992 F150 4.9L are good donors). The first generation distributor mounted TFI modules had reliability issues and were subject of a class action lawsuit, but the remote mounted units seem to be quite reliable. With any electronic ignition conversion be sure to use resistor plug wires and plugs. I would also use the matching coil with any of these conversions. The OEM based conversions are reliable and parts availability is good. If you use an OEM based conversion, Mopar, GM-HEI and Ford-TFI modules are available at any parts store in the US. You may have some trouble finding a Pertronix module on a Saturday road trip. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-flathead-6-distributor-upgrade-48-desoto.653565/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tfi-using-points-how-to.374699/ http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979 I hope you find this useful. Good luck with your project, Scott.

I like it. The Skylark should be a nice solid platform and the Buick 350 is a good engine with decent torgue. I'm not a big fan of those seats or the steering wheel. Keep us posted on what you do with it to make it "yours".

Most of the time I use PB Blaster, but for the tough ones I've had good luck with Seafoam DeepCreep.

Fargone, I was not suggesting that the entire GM transmission will work as a swap candidate. Sorry for the confusion. I was merely suggesting that if the tailshafts interchange then that may open up some alternatives on tailshaft length and shifter position. I don't know if the tailshaft from a GM version will bolt on or not. As I said in my original post, I will leave further research to you should you decide it has merit. I am really enjoying this thread so please keep us posted on your progress. Good luck with your project, Scott.

GM used this same transmission with GM’s own 10-spline input shaft, input bearing and retainer:o 1981 to 1986 Chevrolet 2- and 4- wheel drive pickups and Suburban (3.09:1 ratio first gear)o General Engines designated this transmission code MY6. This may open up some options for tailshafts and shifters. I will leave further research to you.

Jeep Cherokee is unit body, unless you are thinking about the first gen 74 to 83 models.

Try Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant pn 56521 on fasteners that penetrate the water jacket. I had good success using this on a timing cover bolt that penetrated into the water jacket on a 3800 v6. I had previously tried some of the silicone products without success, but the permatex thread sealant did the trick.

Jocko, Try Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant pn 56521 on fasteners that penetrate the water jacket. Scott.

Great job Pete. That's my favorite type of fix, using repurposed off the shelf parts to solve a problem. Most people would look at that and never know it wasn't a repop or nos part.

The A-series vans are unit-body contruction. There is no seperate chassis to use.

I think pistons and crank/rod bearings from a 270 will work. Needs a 0.0625 overbore. Measure measure measure to make sure before laying down your cash. There are some vendors of early hemi parts that may be able to supply some parts that interchange like bearings, maybe oil and water pumps. Might be worthwhile to check with them. Expect parts to be expensive.

The oil pressure switch needs to have at least one "Normally Open" contact. Good luck explaining that to the kid at the parts store. Scott.

Why not use an electric fuel pump inertial switch like this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=941751&cc=1122028&jsn=501 This one is for a 1992 F150 4.9L. Use the inertial switch to cut power to the fuel pump relay coil during a collision. Should be a little safer than the oil pressure switch. Wire from ignition switch to inertial switch, then from inertial switch to relay coil, then from relay coil to ground. Run a power wire from a source of fused battery voltage to the normally open contact of the relay, then from the other side of the normally open relay contact to your fuel pump. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump relay will energize sending power to the fuel pump. In case of an accident the inertial switch opens, de-energizing the fuel pump relay and shutting off the pump. Scott

I believe the dial also has information on what shift cast the part.

It looks like those Raybestos pads fit a variety of vehicles. One common fitment was a 1976 Chrysler Cordoba. A good parts store should be able to help with the pin. RockAuto list a Raybestos H5017W as the correct pin for a Cordoba caliper.

The red paint on the longer spring looks very suspicious. I have seen these color coded springs in high volume oil pump kits for V8s. I would say you don't have the proper spring and valve.