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cavisco1

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cavisco1 last won the day on September 1 2016

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About cavisco1

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  • Birthday 06/03/1959

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    cavisco@aol.com
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    Product Engineer

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    South Carolina
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  1. Fargone, I was not suggesting that the entire GM transmission will work as a swap candidate. Sorry for the confusion. I was merely suggesting that if the tailshafts interchange then that may open up some alternatives on tailshaft length and shifter position. I don't know if the tailshaft from a GM version will bolt on or not. As I said in my original post, I will leave further research to you should you decide it has merit. I am really enjoying this thread so please keep us posted on your progress. Good luck with your project, Scott.
  2. GM used this same transmission with GM’s own 10-spline input shaft, input bearing and retainer:o 1981 to 1986 Chevrolet 2- and 4- wheel drive pickups and Suburban (3.09:1 ratio first gear)o General Engines designated this transmission code MY6. This may open up some options for tailshafts and shifters. I will leave further research to you.
  3. Jeep Cherokee is unit body, unless you are thinking about the first gen 74 to 83 models.
  4. Try Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant pn 56521 on fasteners that penetrate the water jacket. I had good success using this on a timing cover bolt that penetrated into the water jacket on a 3800 v6. I had previously tried some of the silicone products without success, but the permatex thread sealant did the trick.
  5. Jocko, Try Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant pn 56521 on fasteners that penetrate the water jacket. Scott.
  6. Great job Pete. That's my favorite type of fix, using repurposed off the shelf parts to solve a problem. Most people would look at that and never know it wasn't a repop or nos part.
  7. The A-series vans are unit-body contruction. There is no seperate chassis to use.
  8. I think pistons and crank/rod bearings from a 270 will work. Needs a 0.0625 overbore. Measure measure measure to make sure before laying down your cash. There are some vendors of early hemi parts that may be able to supply some parts that interchange like bearings, maybe oil and water pumps. Might be worthwhile to check with them. Expect parts to be expensive.
  9. The oil pressure switch needs to have at least one "Normally Open" contact. Good luck explaining that to the kid at the parts store. Scott.
  10. Why not use an electric fuel pump inertial switch like this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=941751&cc=1122028&jsn=501 This one is for a 1992 F150 4.9L. Use the inertial switch to cut power to the fuel pump relay coil during a collision. Should be a little safer than the oil pressure switch. Wire from ignition switch to inertial switch, then from inertial switch to relay coil, then from relay coil to ground. Run a power wire from a source of fused battery voltage to the normally open contact of the relay, then from the other side of the normally open relay contact to your fuel pump. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump relay will energize sending power to the fuel pump. In case of an accident the inertial switch opens, de-energizing the fuel pump relay and shutting off the pump. Scott
  11. I believe the dial also has information on what shift cast the part.
  12. It looks like those Raybestos pads fit a variety of vehicles. One common fitment was a 1976 Chrysler Cordoba. A good parts store should be able to help with the pin. RockAuto list a Raybestos H5017W as the correct pin for a Cordoba caliper.
  13. The red paint on the longer spring looks very suspicious. I have seen these color coded springs in high volume oil pump kits for V8s. I would say you don't have the proper spring and valve.
  14. Just curious, when these oversized filters are crushed down and forced to fit, does any oil pass through them at all?
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