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Jim Saraceno

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Everything posted by Jim Saraceno

  1. Here are a couple of pictures taken at my best friend's son's wedding. I chauffeured the bride and her Dad to the wedding in style. Just had to share: http://ShariPhotography.zenfolio.com/p526582318/eb7d1abc http://ShariPhotography.zenfolio.com/p526582318/e48a1ff2 Ooops... I guess because it is a commercial site, it won't let me post the pictures, only the links.
  2. Like Don said, there is a section on adjusting brakes in the "Technical Tips" section plus there is a handy reference in the "Downloads" section.
  3. Definitely, clean as well as possible using carpet cleaners and flush with water where ever possible. After you have cleaned as well as you can, spray with Lysol, Fabreeze and/or products specially made to target animal smells. Any pet store will have such products, so will you local grocery store and Target. Cat urine is one of the worst things to deal with.
  4. I need to replace the sedan decking on my '35. That is the vinyl top covering the roof of the car. I see restoration specialties carries long grain and short grain. Would anyone have any idea which would be the most authentic or appropriate?
  5. I used a standard 3 jaw gear puller and some flat bar stock to pull mine ('35). It was a hokey arrangement but it worked.
  6. Yes, the freeze plugs were all pulled before it was hot tanked. Yes, there are not hot spots that I can find. I guess I'm going to have to take her out on other hot days and try to get a handle on just which air temps I start to have problems. As I said, there are no problems in the 70's to mid 80's and I usually never drive it when it get much hotter.
  7. I've been through the entire system. The radiator passed the flow test, the thermostat was replaced last winter, the engine was rebuilt a few years ago and the block hot-tanked so I have to assume all the passages are open. The water pump was replace about 8 years ago. I'm not sure how you would tell if the impeller was not up to snuff. The heat riser works just as it should. I was driving around 50 mph (no overdrive and a 4.125 rear end). I never saw any sign of boil over. I'm not sure at what temperature coolant will boil at a 50/50 mixture. She is fine if the temps are in the 80s or below. Quite honestly, I never drive her when the temps start to hit the 90s so I'm not sure at what outside temp it starts to be a problem. I would have never taken her out in those temperatures but I had promised the bride and groom.
  8. I thought I had ironed out all the issues of the cooling system. Last weekend, a friend of mine asked me to chauffeur his son's bride to be and her dad to the wedding to make a grand entrance. The temps that day were hovering around 102-104! I had to drive around 10 miles on the highway and by the time I got off the highway, the temperature gauge was pegged! Luckily, the car kept running just fine and I managed to get the bride and father delivered as planned but I was very concerned. Two questions... 1. Should our cars be able to run at these temperatures without over heating? 2. If a car over heats, what can happen and are there signs to heed before something bad happens? BTW... for anyone wanting to review all that I have done to overcome previous overheating problems, here is the link to that thread... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26054
  9. If I remember correctly, someone in the past mentioned that the newer pumps have one area where the bolt passes through, which is thicker than the original pump therefore needs a longer bolt.
  10. Our engines came from the factory with hardened valve seats, both intake and exhaust. A visual should tell you if you need to replace any valves. While you are playing with the valves, you should check the wear of the valve guides. There should be no more than 5/16" play when the valve is fully open.
  11. As said before, there is no external bypass on your stat housing so the pump should be an internal bypass. I'm surprised your timing light won't work on 6 volts. I bought a cheap on several years ago that was made for a 12 v system but it works just fine on my 6V.
  12. I bought my add on, by-pass oil filter from Any Bernbaum. It takes a disposable filter that can be bought at NAPA (#1080). It's easy enough to install.
  13. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=262018#post262018 Follow this link for fuel pump testing procedures. I would guess if you have just rebuilt your fuel pump and are only getting 2.25 #s of pressure, you have some type of blockage. Do you have fuel filters in the line somewhere?
  14. I just went to the Ford dealer to pick up a pair of rear sway bar links for my '98 Escort. The guy quoted me a price of $167! I decided to pass on that and went to NAPA. I got the pair for $16.49 including taxes. Now THAT's a crazy-stupid price!
  15. I've owned my '35 for 8 years now. For all the shows and cruises I've gone to, I've only seen a few other cars from the 30s that are in original condition but I've seen hundreds turned into street rods, rat rods, and hot rods. It looks like your car is in really good condition. Enjoy it, drive it and look around to see just how unique your car is.
  16. I often get a look of surprise when people ask me how much I paid for the car and I tell the $7000 (which was probably a grand or two more than it is worth). I guess those Barrett-Jackson auctions leads everyone to believe that all these cars go for 50 grand and up.
  17. That was great! I'm already sharing that with others on the internet. They have several other clever videos also... The second one is the same song as the one Don Posted. I'm guessing it was the first "low budget" video then they got some sponsorship and made the Rube Goldberg video. Very, very clever. Thanks for sharing Don!
  18. From these two statements, it tells us that fuel is flowing when it is cold but not when it is hot. I agree with Don that it is unlikely a problem with vapor lock simply because while the fuel is flowing there is little likelihood that it can get to temps that would make it boil. Vapor usually happens once the engine is shut off, the gas is sitting still, and the engine compartment heats up (due to lack of airflow). If you think it is temperature related, take a spray bottle and spray the fuel pump and lines to cool things down. That should clear things up. It may have nothing to do with the temperature, it may be a restriction that gets worse the longer the engine runs. Most people don't have a long rubber fuel line. Could that be a problem? Again, until you do those three fuel pump tests, you'll never know if the lack of fuel is in the pump or the lines. I had a similar problem one time. It ended up being a line that started rusting out from the inside. The rust clogged up the screen on the fuel pump plus it got bad enough that I'm sure it was sucking air at the same time. The difference is at first it would run fine at idle but run rough under load but it kept getting worse and worse. Letting things cool off never fixed the problem. This is surely a head scratch-er. Good luck!
  19. Best of luck to you two. You and Terri will be in my thoughts and prayers.
  20. The fuel pump has its own cam between cylinders 1 & 2. The oil pump gear is between 3 & 4.
  21. Well I imagine it has a lot to do with your screen resolution. I recently replaced my computer so it has 1366 x 768 and I can easily read it. I know you can put it in full screen mode and view a single page at a time. After that you can zoom in, but as some have said, it may be a small part of the page and you will have to navigate using the arrow keys or mouse. I don't think there is any way to either download or print articles. I'm sure Google reader is strictly an on-line reader and copyright laws prohibit them from making the articles available for any type of reproduction.
  22. Here are the procedures for testing a fuel pump. As you can see, you may need to do all three tests to determine where the problem lies. As you have replaced the fuel pump several times, I'd be very surprised that that is where the problem is. I'd guess a leak or restriction in your fuel line. If you get 1 oz during one test (should be 15 pumps according to procedure) then wait a while and get 6 oz., I would guess that would indicate some dirt or rust in the line that is getting sucked into a screen, either in the pump, a filter or inside the tank. If you get 6oz. for 15 pumps all the time, I'd say your fuel pump and line are not the problem. But as I said before, if you're messing around with it, I'd do all three tests so you knew for sure if the problem could be in the pump or the line. Does anyone think the fuel pump cam could actually wear that much? It's on the cam shaft and I've never heard of a cam shaft wearing out.
  23. I would suggest you do some diagnostic work on your fuel system. Do a volume and pressure test at the carburetor. That will tell you if the problem is in the lines or the pump. If you can determine that fuel flow is adequate, then you can move on to the next possibility. These symptoms can be indicate fuel flow or ignition problems. Start on one system, go through all the tests and move on to the next. Most all these components can be measured for proper function. It appears you have done much replacing and little diagnosing. The pins are not always staked. New or rebuilt, you have to make sure the pin can not work it's way out (like it did on mine one time) but that would probably stop the flow immediately.
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