Jim Saraceno

I once had a similar problem and it turned out to be my fuel system. The fuel line started rusting and the rust particles sloughed off and clogged up the fuel pump. I could drive the car around 30 mph just fine but when I tried to get on the highway or go up a hill it just started coughing and wheezing and refused to go any faster, though it never slowed to a stop. So it doesn't sound exactly the same as your problem but similar.

I think more than a few people have used welding cable and put on proper fittings. I don't remember what the gauge is supposed to be.

Thanks! I found it. I clicked on the menu icon in the upper right then scrolled down and clicked on BROWSE. There was a separate DOWNLOADS tab. Thanks for sending me in the right direction!

It's been quite while since I have been on here but I thought there was a download section that had PDF files such as adjusting brakes, adjusting valves and such. Am I thinking of a different site or am I just not looking in the right place?

No, I didn't sand the drums or the shoes but that is next on my list of things to do.

I have an old Heathkit Engine Analyzer http://www.glowbug.nl/scope/IO20.html. I seldom use it but it sure comes in handy when I'm trying to iron out problems of the engine running rough.?

While we are on this 11 year old thread... I noticed the picture of my worn tappet got lost so here it is again. If you use a feeler gauge but don't check to see if it is cupped, you're going to be way off.

Sure. The only thing I don't have is a tool to pre-adjust the shoes before I put the drum on. I try to get it close then do the adjustment when the drum goes back on. Major first, minor second. That has worked for me for many years but this is the first time I've dealt with a squeaky brake shoe.

Yeah, I still have one N-95 left and a respirator. Thanks.

Great idea, Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking that was the way but I wasn't sure. My history on brakes is... When I first bought my '35 Plymouth in 2003, the brakes were fine. I actually wondered why people complained about drum brakes. Then one day I applied the brakes to slow down and the right rear wheel locked up. When I started up again the pedal went all the way to the floor so I had to make it back home with just with down shifting and the hand brake. When I opened things up I found one of my brake shoes had just disintegrated. I send all my shoes off to a place that Don Coatney had recommended to be re-lined and after I installed them the car never stopped like it did with the old shoes. I assumed it had to do with the newer non-asbestos linings but I suppose it may have had something to do with not being arced. On the other hand, I have to assume that the shoes would eventually"arc themselves" as they wore in but the braking never got any easier. Then this spring I notice one of my wheel cylinders were leaking. When I pulled the drum I saw one of the linings on one of the shoes has separated and fell off the shoe. I ordered a pair of shoes from Bernbaum and installed one pair with the intention of installing the other pair when I had more time. The new pair started squeaking right away and haven't stopped yet (probably 4-500 miles). So with your information, I'll take that drum off again, check to see how well the shoes are arced, readjust the shoes and see what happens. If that doesn't do the job I'll start calling around to see if I can find someone local to do some work (though that just really goes against my grain!). Thanks again.

How does one arc brake shoes? I recently replaced a pair of brake shoes and the squeak like crazy at a full stop. Can the lack of arcing contribute to this problem?

I also used Highline Plating in Cuba Missouri for my bumpers and they did a beautiful job at a decent price however I sent my windshield trim in ('35 Plymouth) and I started having problem almost from the get go. I would recommend them for large projects but definitely not fine work.

How would you go about installing new valve guides with the crank and tappets in?

My '35 Plymouth's wiper motors work directly from manifold pressure and yes, they slow down when you accelerate. Vacuum at idle is not a problem for these motors.

What are the details of this event?

OMG, Thanks for posting this! I haven't been on this forum for a few years and I just happened to log in and start skimming the posts. When I saw this I went out and checked my jack stands and sent the article to my son. Mine were fine but his were among the recalls. He told me he almost got under those jack stands today! Thank you big time!

You may want to get a rebuild kit and replace those old gaskets. I had that same problem years ago and if I remember correctly I took the top off the carburetor and honed both sides where the gasket is with a fine grit sandpaper on a piece of flat glass.

I just looked at my manual and the '35 does have the same ratios as James Curl listed.

Oops. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but my posts are showing up on the wrong threads and I can't figure out how to delete them.

As per instructions, put the pin on top of the valve. That will keep it from raising. Those valves are harder than the pin so you should have no fear of marring that valve.

Not yet, I didn't quite get it all back together, plus it need a new battery. At 49cc I don't think it you need a licence or helmet. I'm not sure if it even has to be registered. Anyway, it will be several weeks before we get back together again and I can finish putting the scooter together. We'll probably each run it around the parking lot then it will sit there for another 5 years!

Okay, problem solved and scooter running! The problem turned out to be the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the petcock had been cut and plugged. After talking with my buddy about how this could have happened we came to this conclusion... He bought this scooter on a whim, started it up, drove it once around the parking lot, let it sit and it never started again. At some point someone had it running (there are 45 miles showing on the odometer) then we are guessing they cut and blocked the vacuum line for shipping. The dealer should have reconnected it during dealer prep but apparently didn't. There was a little fuel left in the hose and fuel filter, enough for my buddy to start it up, do his test run and that's it. Thankyou to everyone for insight and suggestions as knew nothing about these scooters. As ussual you guys got me going in the right direction!

That's what I'm hoping for. I checked the petcock by putting some vacuum on it. It held so I'm assuming we should be good to go. I'll be really interested to see what my buddy says when I tell him what I found.

So the part manual lists it as a petcock. The fuel tank is above the carb and it should be gravity fed so maybe you are right that the vacuum line is an automatic shut off. Regardless, I'm sure the two hoses with similar plugs in them must have once been one hose and I have no idea why someone would cut and plug that hose. As I said before, I was under the impression that it has had no work done to it but I can't see how it could have ever run with the current configuration. My buddy won't be back in town until next week so maybe he can clear up some of my questions. I'm going to put a vacuum on it to make sure there is no leak in the diaphagm and if all goes well, I'll re-install the petcock, connect vacuum line to the intake manifold, put some new gas in and see what happens. I only work on this on Thursday nights so it will be next week before I know any more. This is a 4 stroke single cylinder 50cc scooter engine. Everything I read tells me its a piece of Chinese junk not worth messing with but as long as I'm having fun with it I'll keep at it. If nothing else I'm learning a little about scooters.