Jim Saraceno

I once had a similar problem and it turned out to be my fuel system. The fuel line started rusting and the rust particles sloughed off and clogged up the fuel pump. I could drive the car around 30 mph just fine but when I tried to get on the highway or go up a hill it just started coughing and wheezing and refused to go any faster, though it never slowed to a stop. So it doesn't sound exactly the same as your problem but similar.

I think more than a few people have used welding cable and put on proper fittings. I don't remember what the gauge is supposed to be.

Thanks! I found it. I clicked on the menu icon in the upper right then scrolled down and clicked on BROWSE. There was a separate DOWNLOADS tab. Thanks for sending me in the right direction!

It's been quite while since I have been on here but I thought there was a download section that had PDF files such as adjusting brakes, adjusting valves and such. Am I thinking of a different site or am I just not looking in the right place?

No, I didn't sand the drums or the shoes but that is next on my list of things to do.

I have an old Heathkit Engine Analyzer http://www.glowbug.nl/scope/IO20.html. I seldom use it but it sure comes in handy when I'm trying to iron out problems of the engine running rough.?

While we are on this 11 year old thread... I noticed the picture of my worn tappet got lost so here it is again. If you use a feeler gauge but don't check to see if it is cupped, you're going to be way off.

Sure. The only thing I don't have is a tool to pre-adjust the shoes before I put the drum on. I try to get it close then do the adjustment when the drum goes back on. Major first, minor second. That has worked for me for many years but this is the first time I've dealt with a squeaky brake shoe.

Yeah, I still have one N-95 left and a respirator. Thanks.

Great idea, Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking that was the way but I wasn't sure. My history on brakes is... When I first bought my '35 Plymouth in 2003, the brakes were fine. I actually wondered why people complained about drum brakes. Then one day I applied the brakes to slow down and the right rear wheel locked up. When I started up again the pedal went all the way to the floor so I had to make it back home with just with down shifting and the hand brake. When I opened things up I found one of my brake shoes had just disintegrated. I send all my shoes off to a place that Don Coatney had recommended to be re-lined and after I installed them the car never stopped like it did with the old shoes. I assumed it had to do with the newer non-asbestos linings but I suppose it may have had something to do with not being arced. On the other hand, I have to assume that the shoes would eventually"arc themselves" as they wore in but the braking never got any easier. Then this spring I notice one of my wheel cylinders were leaking. When I pulled the drum I saw one of the linings on one of the shoes has separated and fell off the shoe. I ordered a pair of shoes from Bernbaum and installed one pair with the intention of installing the other pair when I had more time. The new pair started squeaking right away and haven't stopped yet (probably 4-500 miles). So with your information, I'll take that drum off again, check to see how well the shoes are arced, readjust the shoes and see what happens. If that doesn't do the job I'll start calling around to see if I can find someone local to do some work (though that just really goes against my grain!). Thanks again.

How does one arc brake shoes? I recently replaced a pair of brake shoes and the squeak like crazy at a full stop. Can the lack of arcing contribute to this problem?

I also used Highline Plating in Cuba Missouri for my bumpers and they did a beautiful job at a decent price however I sent my windshield trim in ('35 Plymouth) and I started having problem almost from the get go. I would recommend them for large projects but definitely not fine work.

How would you go about installing new valve guides with the crank and tappets in?

My '35 Plymouth's wiper motors work directly from manifold pressure and yes, they slow down when you accelerate. Vacuum at idle is not a problem for these motors.