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NiftyFifty last won the day on April 26 2016

NiftyFifty had the most liked content!


About NiftyFifty

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Shilo ,MB Canada
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge D, 1967 Dodge Monaco 500

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
  • Occupation
    Sales for Forage Seed


  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
  • Interests
    sleds, mechanincs

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  1. NiftyFifty

    Oil Pan Installation

    I always trim mine a bit and use Ultra Black on the crack between the gaskets, but never on the contact surfaces, as stated above...aviation gasket maker or high tack is best for holding in place, but I only use on the pan...very hard to get off the block if you need to remove again
  2. NiftyFifty

    Deleted thread regarding aftermarket parts quality...

    I 100% agree that thread did go overboard on some posts and we do have to give the vendor a chance to fix a problem with product before a rant, but if it’s ok I would like to say it’s also good business for the forum itself to educate members on what products to avoid when doing a build. After my own parts issues I try to spend a lot more time seeking out information on either the vendor or if possible exact parts I’m after from said vendor and nothing is better then others first hand experience, and this site is a wealth of information. I guess what I’m hoping is we just don’t lose the freedom to protect others from parts we should just avoid, it’s a big part of what the community should be about.
  3. NiftyFifty

    New member new project

    Honestly, the first decision is what you want the truck for, if you want a local cruiser and attend local car shows and not get too heavily invested, then stock original is just fine with a few slight upgrades, BUT if you want a highway cruiser and plans for longer trips and really make it a good “driver” then I’d say look at a more modern power train, but the hemi might be a stretch unless your really looking for a big investment and a lot of learning and fabricating. I have one regret, that I built my truck thinking I’d be happy just keeping it local and slow and easy, so I invested and built the truck around improving and maintaining the flat 6, but if I could go back I would swap that and do an IFS and be running a V8. I do love my truck, it will do 60/70mph all day and I did add power steering to make it even easier to drive, but when you cruise in a group of more muscle type cars and hot rods it doesn’t take long to get left behind and or feel like I’m beating on the truck a little too much. Same thing for long distance shows, it’s not that easy to roll into a local parts shop and get anything for these motors...so I have to either trailer it or have back ups of any common failure parts. At the end of the day, it’s your truck and only you can decide it’s path and don’t let anyone steer you away unless it’s to save you from heartache or failure
  4. NiftyFifty


    Is that a rear steer rack? Any pictures of your install...I searched a lot for a rear steer and I didn’t find much out there, so went Omni
  5. NiftyFifty


    You can’t just use any Omni rack either...you have to get the one with the return steel line on the side of the rack, not on the top. Once you mount the rack at the right tilt to make it work with the u-joints the tube can interfere with the oil pan....personal experience LOL
  6. NiftyFifty

    Engine Noise/Tick at Higher RPM

    If the MMO doesn't fix it, check your u-joints...I had one on my 67 Monaco that would occasionally "tick" at higher speed and it was a case of it just starting to seize up a bit, and possibly the little bit of extra torque at higher rpm changed the pitch just enough for it to make noise...I hunted that one for awhile too, but I'd agree it's most likely a valve and MMO solves most problems. Definitely run it in your fuel tank as well.
  7. NiftyFifty

    Interior panels

    Id say so, I built mine with heavy grade marine vinyl and laminated panel board for about $50 a side and I much prefer them over the originals, as I made them cover the door access panel. If you do build your own panels, just be sure to use Weldwood Landau and trim adhesive, best stuff I have ever found, but no second chances once you stick either
  8. NiftyFifty

    Interior panels

    I don’t have pictures of the Roberts kit, only seen it on a truck at a car show I was at.
  9. NiftyFifty

    Interior panels

    Of which?
  10. NiftyFifty

    Disc brakes and no money need list

    Are they actually above your scrub line? If they are they look pretty close too it. That’s the one thing that always scared me about a lowered axle, and even I had to be careful when I did my front power steering rack, but I’ve got a few good inches before my line.
  11. NiftyFifty

    Disc brakes and no money need list

    What's the deal with your tie rod block? Never seen a set up like that before
  12. NiftyFifty

    1951 Fargo 400cid on Dakota chassis

    I just put a set of those on my 67 Dodge Monaco 383, which they say they don’t fit, but they did pretty great in my opinion. Word of warning, sand the living crap out of them before you paint them...I roughed mine up to what I thought was good and used VHT header paint...didn’t last 5 minutes and it came off in huge chunks. good quality header tho
  13. NiftyFifty

    Disc brakes and no money need list

    Frugal and brakes don't really go hand in hand in my mind, their the one thing you definitely don't want to tinker with...order the RustyHope break kit, then buy the new parts in the list and save yourself a lot of aggravation and look for other areas to save on costs. I will say that I agree the brake line listed in the kit isn't a great fit, but it does work, you just have to forget using the mounting bracket they come with, and cut that off.
  14. NiftyFifty

    Gas Tank

    Just make a new one from thicker gasket material, which you can get at any parts supplier
  15. NiftyFifty

    1951 Fargo 400cid on Dakota chassis

    Another fellow Canuck enjoying our early winter up here! It's been a beyond bad start to our fall season, and I've all but given up thinking the truck will be back on the road, but here's hoping! Plymouth is giving some good info, and believe me,..as a guy that's stripped his truck down more then once, it's so much easier to correct things now, rather then later. Your engine plate looks great, but static mounting an engine like that will cost you a fortune in dental work, as you will amplify every tick and twist in that engine throughout the body, and I also think your going to have a very hard time keeping your water pump from leaking, as that plate will constantly flex with the engine and likely degrade any gaskets well before they should be changing. If it were me, I would go back to hunting for a way to use the original side mounts, and yes get the offset correct, or you may also never keep a u-joint in it long enough to enjoy a long cruise. Nobody wants to dis on your build, it's looking to be a very cool start, but if we can save you from future aggravation then that's what being here is all about!

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