4mula-dlx

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4mula-dlx last won the day on April 26 2016

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About 4mula-dlx

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Shilo ,MB Canada
  • Interests
    MOPAR
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge D, 1967 Dodge Monaco 500

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  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
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    Sales for Forage Seed

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  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
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    sleds, mechanincs
  1. Still lots of single stage paint on the market if you look for it, but you will run into poorer quality paints, which sometimes mean less pigment in them and means more coats. My paint was single stage on my truck, but its issue was poor drying time....dry sprayed like a bugger, again...poorer quality in the single stage products.
  2. I'd give the grill bars a shot of new flat white paint..or even better would be an off white and it will look great
  3. My issue with grease is it stays wet and might pop off again once in use...I used a bit of dish soap on mine...same thing...was a tight fit, but has never moved since.
  4. You don't have to change your pertronix out, but do make sure your plug wires aren't out one spot
  5. Could be out a tooth so to say and still run if the oil pump wasn't right, as to why it's not at the typical 7:00. Did you ever adjust that bottom distb bolt?
  6. Avoid driving or running it much with that popping, a buddy just had a 65 Ford decided to try and BBQ itself because it backfired through the carb and ignited some oil on the manifold...sadly he had the air cleaner off jut to move it across the shop and that's all it took.
  7. Ran open and fine for years like that, and the valve was wide open, no heating issues. Only issue I ever had was an electric gauge reading wrong..but a resistor fixed that.
  8. Just be careful using those as a speedometer on the highway, gps on certain devices is allowed to be out by a certain % and some a lot more then others, and even some apps show different..it's not a whole bunch, but if you were on the highway and already possibly pushing things, it could be out a few mph and have you over what that cop deems ok that day. There are actual speedometer gauges you can buy and mount permanent that look like classic gauges that use a gps unit mounted in the truck and no subscription needed, and no worries about forgetting phones or dead cell batteries..but they are a bit pricier then most gauge sets, and are only 12volt I believe.
  9. To save any issues, next time all you need to do is pull the line off the carb, put a 4-6" rubber line on it that fits fairly snug and put a small slit in it at the 1/2 way and put a blow gun into the slit...it pulls like your siphoning the gas and doesn't put pressure on the tank or system...just be prepared when the gas starts coming with a rag or bottle. I've pumped out a few gas tanks this way.
  10. Rather then cap, I just ran the rear heater feed line right to the pump, that way I wasn't worried about trying to make a leak proof stop in the system , it just flowed in a loop....but up here you need heat in the spring and fall, so I found a better heater and put it back in.
  11. You can get 6 volt pumps, my buddy just put one on an early 50s Merc in conjunction with the manual pump...I guess those Ford flat heads like to boil gas out of the intake mounted pump and carb.
  12. These headaches are why I went to an electric pump right off the bat, but they also have their own challenges.
  13. Hopefully you didn't get a dud pump...if you said you had a Carter I would recommend a trip back to the parts store...they used to be great, but sadly about 10 years ago they just went way down hill on quality. good luck, and the carb prime will likely get you going.
  14. I'm serious, but you keep on doing what your doing...I'm done helping those that can't be
  15. You'll have to explain to me then how you made a true "knock" go away with a timing change? Only thing I can imagine is you either advanced or retarded the timing so far that it's now limiting the actual combustion and taking strain off the actual culprit, which sounds like a bearing is shot. Try driving it before you adjust the valves, if you just adjust out the noise, you may be doing the same thing, losing compression off the bad spot to make the noise go away.