4mula-dlx

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4mula-dlx last won the day on April 26 2016

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About 4mula-dlx

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Location
    Oak Lake,MB Canada
  • Interests
    MOPAR
  • My Project Cars
    50 Dodge D, 67 Dodge Monaco, 1950 Ford 1 ton

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  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
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    Sales for Forage Seed

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  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
  • Interests
    sleds, mechanincs
  1. Stiffer brush means more scratches and even duller paint...if it needs a serious bath, get a good car washing sponge with the bug cleaning rough side, some quality cleaner and hand wash it in hot as water as you can stand, and then a hot pressure wash if possible. After that, spend $50 at Princess Auto (Canadian Harbour Freight) and buy a polisher and gets some Mothers or even the NuFinish and buff it.
  2. What's wrong with the white lettering on the outside...that's my favourite apart from wide whites....I think the all black looks boring especially on stock rims
  3. I'm a little more of the opinion that if you don't like patina, you don't really like "old" cars, but old cars that look like new. Patina is great if it's right.... 3/4 rust and only 1/4 paint isn't patina, it's rust and more a rat rod...best thing about old cars, you can like what suits you, drive what suits you, and at shows look at what suits you
  4. Ya that's a taste thing...there is a 46 panel truck locally that just got built, it's a lot of surface rust and patina and he clear coated it...I just can't understand shiny rust or shiny patina....seems like a contradiction too me. At the end of the day tho, it's your truck, so it your decision...same reason I have an orange truck...some like it, some don't...but I didn't build it for anyone but me. I think 320 is pretty harsh for a clean up...I would say 600 then 1000 grit maybe....I stil see the scratches from the 400 I started with on my hood, and went 600 and 2000 after that
  5. Unless your going to do a real "power polish" I don't think you will see much difference in some hand rubbed wax, except you may end up with a lot of shiny and rough spots all over...pretty much have to choose either polished right or left with patina...I like the patina myself, and those rusted spots can be treated with a converter and wiped down after...turn them dark instead of rust colour, and slow it down. Spent many years around the Dauphin area and a lots of trips thru Asheville...even know a Yaciuk up there...cool truck
  6. I've had longer days, only to find a fix that was simple...but with age and experience, those days get fewer and farther between.
  7. Possibly time to switch from Lucas? Lots of Autolite or even move to the newer electronic dizzy and new coil
  8. You don't have to have one, but as stated before...it helps with drivability. I used mine many years without...but it does run better now. Points are fine as well if you can work on them, Pertronix just erases that trouble
  9. If you look under the truck you should be able to tell pretty fast, different looking trans all together....that or try pulling up to a stop in 1st and don't put your foot on the clutch...should stay running...if not...good chance you don't have
  10. I would doubt Bucks has anything that old left on the site...scrap was too valuable for a few years....try an ad on kijjii, might have luck on there.
  11. Pertronix makes a good product, no point slamming them..lots of people very happy with their points eliminating system, but a vacuum advance distributor is a good thing in a daily driver truck, or one in traffic and highway use. As for the slant 6 conversion...that I wouldn't waste my money and time on...Chrysler didn't exactly have a fabulous system in those days, it can and does work, but that ignition box is double or triple price the GM parts, and if you do buy the cheap box, you can assure yourself you will get stuck at the worst possible time. The 1 ton trucks didn't have vacuum advance, and it's a bit harder to find 1/2 tons in Manitoba, or ones not currently in use...possibly a car engine would be a better bet...but the issue with used distributor is you are prone to parts being work out from that many years of service...that was another selling feature on the Langdon one...all new parts, and cheap replacement parts. I've had 4 engines and never come across a vacuum distb yet that I could buy around here.
  12. Nope, it just goes to ported vacuum, although some do use manifold vacuum...have to see what works best for your set up.
  13. If you want a real slick trick, find one of those old scissor jacks that fold really low, I put one between the axle and the frame and wrenched it up, all the space you need and no wheels off or jack stands needed if you don't trust them. I actually had two in mine, but one would have done it I think..I pulled the second one out before reinstalling the pan and it was fine
  14. No that's the exact distb, you just run a vacuum line to the typically plugged port on the carburetor base with a piece of brake line and a brass adapter and use a piece of rubber vacuum line where you hook on to the advance. The wiring was very simple, just a 10 ga power lead in and then run the wires to the distb from the coil. I went with the square body coil, just because if I have an issue, it's easier to find. All the replacement parts are for an 82-84 S10/S15 2.8L, but I think even more years fit from my days of owning an 87
  15. If you have a non vacuum advance distributor, why not consider a distb from Langdons? I got mine, seems to work quite well, had it all installed in about an hour with wiring and mounting the new coil. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665978