jonnysteals

Yeah but it seems that most people that are actually interested in restoring cars are usually in the bread basket states or california. 85 miles is nuthing compared to traveling to california.

I live in upper township. I am surprised that fellow classic restores live this close to me. I am picking up the car in two weeks. Now I own a 1950 coronet; ripped apart, a 1951 plymouth cranbrook, a 1962 ford falcon(lots of motor work), and to many trucks to list. Good thing I have a lot of room around my house lol

I live in Southern New Jersey. I ahve a picture of the interior which seems to be in pretty good shape. I can not resize it to post it without completely distorting the picture. The drivers side floor pic he sent me only has surface rust and no rust threw. I know the rockers on these cars are prone to rusting. My 1950 dodge coronet is rusted there along with the drivers side floor pan. I am 99% sure I am going to purchase it if it is actually in the condition as described. The interior seats are all torn up and there are no door panels, but the door handles and window cranks all are there.

Well I am asking for more picture so I can assure its truely a rust free vehicle. Its not the money that the hold up its the 6-7 hour drive to pick it up. It has no motor and trans which I am happy about because I will put a 318 727 into it. I am not a fan of the old flat heads because I like to cruise at 75 mph. I know the old flatheads could be adapted to a t5 but I prefer the ability to pick up parts at any local auto parts warehouse. I will keep with updates as I recieve them.

I have the oppurtunity to buy a 1951 plymouth 4door that is supposedly rot free. It is painted black and white in a cop theme with spray paint. The interior is trashed but I have a 1950 dodge coronet with an interior I just finished redoing in black and red leather. My 1950 dodge needs rockers as well as a drivers side floor pan. Do you think that the car is worth 500 dollars or should I continue working on my dodge. I attached a pic of the car

Hey Tim by any chance with exhaust manifold of a 1976 ram work. I am keeping the original seering column because the steering wheel is just to darn cool. It also already has turn signals installed into the column. I am going with a B&M ratching floo shifter for my 904 because I just installed a manual valve body because I always wanted a car like this. The engine I am rebuilding is out of a 1976 dodge ram in which I am rebuiling to get rid of all the smog equipment(mainly the intake carb set-up). Do you forsee any problems with the motor/manifolds. Any other parts do you think I should egt from the car. I have access to the car until next weekend when it is getting sent to the crusher. Thanks again Tim.

Tim you knowledge on these cars is dumbfounding. I want to transform my coronet into a nice cruiser that is reasonable fast. With that in mind I chose the 727 auto or the 904 because they are both equaly reliable and very simple to put in. The 727 is stronger but the amount of horsepower I put out will not be extravagant by any means. I plan to use the turn signals fron the acclaim steering column and the horn. The airbag will be to much of a hassle to install correctly. Thanks Tim you making me very excited to pull the old motor out after work today. Tim I may eb bugging you with other questions later on, if you dont mind. If you do please feel free to tell me to bug off; I understand because you seem like a very busy man. Thanks again Jon

I plan to purchase the aclaim steering column for the junkyard. Tim were you able to find the steerign column wiring adapter to connect to the wiring harness or did you just wire each wire individually. Also you stated that I dont need the A body driver-side exhasut manifold. Woudl the standard 318 manifolds work or could I use some block hugger type headers. Tim where did you get the shock relocation brackets at or did you design them yourself. If you could please take a couple pics of your set up it would be very benefietal and greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything so far Jon:D

abebooks does not have them on stock. They lsit them on the website that they are in stock but a few hour later they cancel your order. Amazon no longer has any books available. My plans for the coronet are rather simple. From the informations I gathered I plan to buy the ply-do mouting brackets for the 318 I am picking up this weekend. I plan on building my own transmission crossmember because I am cheap. I am going to be installing the EZ Wiring harness in which a fellow member is installing; I plan on learning from his experience to help me along in the process. I see no need to subframe the car because it has independent suspension already. I plan to use fatman lowering arms alsong with rusty hope disk brake kit. I just finished the interior with black and red leather. I am looking for a 71-74 b body rear because it should bolt right in with only minor modification. The front end will also be rebuilt. Now I have one question the exhast manifold from a dart will allow the use of the original steering column or am I going to have to steal Tim Allen ideal and use a plymoth Acclaim steering column. What benefit does doing to the chevy cavaliar rack and pinion give you. That is the only area in which I am a little confused on is the steering column situation. Thanks for any insight you guys may give me. Jon

Tex Smith How To Build Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Hot Rods may quite possible be impossible to find a copy of. I have scouered(sp) the depths of the internet to find a copy of this book but have been repeatedly turned down because it is out of print. Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this. I am puting a 318 in a 1950 dodge 4 door and would like to have all recourses available to me. This is my first frame off project and dont wont to get in over my head. If you would like to sell me your copy please email me at jonnysteals@yahoo.com