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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Eneto-55

    Clutch fork return spring bracket

    I found mine, and have drawn it up for anyone else who needs the dimensions. These drawings are set down to 10 thousands in order to show accuracy to 1/16". I realize that it doesn't have to be that exact for a piece like this, but on some things it's easier to be accurate than to be approximate. (At least to me it is.) The Plymouth parts book I have (in PDF, downloaded from this site, titled 1936 thru 1948 and early 1949 Plymouth Condensed Master Parts List) appears to have the picture of this bracket mixed up with something there called the Clutch Housing Reinforcement, part # 859765, which is noted as requiring 2. (One of the old manuals I've seen shows a pickup cab labeled as an ash tray....) I believe the correct part number for this item is 952585, labeled as Clutch Pedal and Release Fork Lever Pull Back Spring. (A different item is shown there - not sure what it is.) I am attaching the drawings as a PDF file, and also in two CAD formats, .DWG & .DXF. (For mounting orientation, see the picture from Don Coatney, linked to in the previous post.) Clutch Fork Spring Bracket - decimal.dwg Clutch Fork Spring Bracket - decimal.dxf Clutch Fork Spring Bracket - decimal.pdf
  2. Eneto-55

    ANSWERED Chassis number

    Thanks. The deal is that I bought a 49 P15 in Nebraska back in 1981. I didn't care about not getting a title at the time, because it was just a parts car to me. But it's a solid car, and now I'd like to eventually get a title for it. I did a title search in Nebraska around 10 years ago, and they didn't find anything. This thread just got me to thinking about running it again, but this time with the frame number. (I do not have the block anymore, as it was blown when I got it - scrapped it way back when.) When I did the title search, I didn't know that some states didn't use the Serial Number, so never thought about getting that information, and also didn't know then that the engine number was also stamped on the frame. All I have on it is a receipt, and it was not notarized or anything like that.
  3. Eneto-55

    ANSWERED Chassis number

    Speaking of the engine/chassis number, is there a list some place here regarding which states used that number on titles instead of the actual Serial Number on the A pillar? (The state I'm specifically wondering about is Nebraska.)
  4. Eneto-55

    Body mounts

    Paul, If you are responding to my questions, I got off topic there. I meant in a general sense, regarding rubber parts that are not currently available.
  5. Eneto-55

    Body mounts

    I was wondering about this myself - if cutting, sanding, or grinding a piece of rubber down to size makes it more likely to degrade later, like as if there is some sort of protective coat on formed rubber parts. I wire-wheeled my body mounts when I put the body back on the frame (over 35 years ago), then the car sat (inside) until now. Those rubber parts have cracked, squashed out, and almost like oozed. But the new (then) master cylinder boot is totally rotted. It was a part of a new rebuild kit I got back in 1980 or 81. Some other rubber parts are fine. Like I had put used rubber brake caps over the ends of the clutch linkage equalizer tube, to keep the grease in, and the dirt out, and those are still soft.
  6. Eneto-55

    A place that will chrome plastic.

    I think at least some of this is some sort of metalizing process, than it may be normal chrome plating after that. I tore up a plastic faucet that had a really convincing chrome finish, and it seemed to have a copper plating on the plastic, then chrome over that. (Probably with nickel between, my guess.) When I peeled off the chrome, it had the feel of metal to it.
  7. Eneto-55

    What's wrong with this picture......

    No, you are correct. It is centered on the garnish molding, not centered in relation to the window glass.
  8. Eneto-55

    What's wrong with this picture......

    W/o looking at mine, I thought that the chrome dress molding was centered below the window, but I doubt if that is it. (Maybe mine is different, as I have a 4 door.) I also noticed that the glass is tinted, and I don't know how much tinting is allowed (by law) on the front glass. Got me!
  9. Eneto-55

    What's wrong with this picture......

    How do you install window glass in the molding???!!!
  10. Eneto-55

    Tail-light upgrade?

    This brings up another question I've been wondering about - Do the 6 volt bulbs produce more heat than a plastic lens can withstand?
  11. Eneto-55

    front inner fenders

    I have undercoated my inner fenders as well. It was just a thought. (I had a 62 Chrysler, and while the headlight bucket was well sealed, and I don't think it ever rusted through, it caught a lot of mud & ice, etc on top of the headlight bucket.) I'm not building a 'trailer queen', and lots of roads around here are dirt, and the summers short. I can't say I won't ever use this car on snow. I'm looking for the right size grommets to be able to seal a rubber hose inside it, and run the wires inside that, much like the originals. Then I'll use rubber tape to also seal the end where the wires come out. (Not 'electrical tape'.)
  12. Eneto-55

    Tail-light upgrade?

    Has anyone replaced their entire tail lights, housing & all, with something larger? Anyone else think the lights look a bit small proportionately for the size of the car? Maybe it's the modern cars with almost the whole back side lit up that is throwing off my sense of scale. (It isn't really anything exactly new, though. Look at the 66 Charger, with the huge light assembly that goes all the way from one side to the other. I don't mean anything huge & gaudy, or something that anyone but the real Plymouth guys would notice as different, just big enough to make a bit more light out the back, and to fit the car's proportions better.)
  13. Eneto-55

    front inner fenders

    Speaking of front inner fender wells, has anyone thought of finding a modern donor car for plastic inner fender wells to protect the headlight & fender light housings & wiring?
  14. Eneto-55

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    The wood grain is said to be "patterned" after a type of African wood called Sapele. I got a few scrap pieces of it from an area wood shop, and it seems to me that the wood grain on these parts is most like a quartersawn piece of the real wood. There has been a lot of discussion regarding how it was done in the factory, but no one seems to know for sure. (Which is rather amazing, really, as it is not all that long ago that it was still done.) One view is that it was some type of transfer film, that was possibly placed on the surface of water, then the piece was either raised up out of the water from under it, or lowered into the water. Another idea is that it was applied to the metal before it was shaped, but that seems unlikely to me. Mine has also been painted over (some ghastly brown color), with a brush. Slopped all over the edges of the chrome pieces, and on the plastic nameplate on the dash. I tried to wet sand the other paint off with very fine sand paper, but there is actually very little of the wood grain left in the areas which would have been exposed to the sun. (My car spent its whole life in Oklahoma, so a LOT of hot sun.) I have tried to collect photos of cars which seem to still be original, but don't have enough to be able to determine if the grain patterns are identical from one vehicle to another. I don't even know if they all used this same color combination, and if there were variations, would it have been according to which factory it was built in, etc.
  15. Eneto-55

    Sand blaster advice

    I don't currently have a blaster (my brother borrowed it, and it was stolen), but if you can't afford both the blaster & a bigger size air compressor, an extra large air tank connected in line will allow for longer work times (and also longer breaks...).
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