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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Eneto-55

    1947 Vin Number location.

    I think he was responding to a similar question from someone other than the original poster, who is in PA. But if I were to have a vehicle registered to an engine number that is no longer with the car, I would work to get it switched to the Serial Number, which I think was arguably the intention of the manufacturer, and it is also most like the VIN which is in use now (both being a tag mounted on the body itself). (Oddly, however, the VIN tag on my 1993 Chrysler T & C was actually mounted on the dash, not the cowl, as one would expect.)
  2. Eneto-55

    Radiator question

    I have never cut open a transmission cooler, but I wonder if engine oil would be too heavy to flow through the capillaries, especially in colder temperatures. (Just a first thought.)
  3. Eneto-55

    1947 Vin Number location.

    Well, I suppose we should get back on the main topic as ASAP as possible.
  4. Eneto-55

    1947 Vin Number location.

    It would be interesting to know which states actually used the engine number for title registration instead of the serial number, which, as some have already said, is the older counterpart of what we have now, the Vehicle Identification Number. (VIN. Being on the obsessive-compulsive side, redundancies like "VIN number" bug me like when people say "consensus of opinion".) Anyway, now that myrant is past, getting back to titles. If it is possible to identify which states used the engine (or frame) number to title a vehicle, it would also be interesting to know for which years they did it this way. But I thought that this thread was about the location of the SN tag, which the MoPar books all is on the left A pillar on P15s, and on the right A pillar on the 42's. Well, my brother had a Plymouth that was, according to the SN, a P15, but the tag was on the Right A pillar. It had been stripped before he got it, so at first I thought it was a '42, but not according to the SN. (He doesn't have the car anymore, but I do have the SN written down someplace.)
  5. Eneto-55

    Heater Choices for a P15

    I wonder if the cowl on the P15 was the same as on the D24. If so, that would explain why there was the round punch-out spot on the cowl, but no heater option offered for the Plymouth which used it. (I just assumed that the cowl vented heater was a luxury option, but one that was seldom ordered.)
  6. Eneto-55

    Little detailing

    I didn't remember that the hood latch plate was not painted, but that sounds right to me. I did notice that the hood safety latch is originally unpainted, just cadmium plated. I wish now that I had reworked some of those parts while I was still working in the plating shop (until the early 80's), instead of plating a lot of the stuff I did, like all of the engine dust shields, lower inner fender wells, and stuff like the bell housing. But at the time I was thinking 'daily driver', and wanted to protect the parts that would be most exposed to road spray. (Also cad plated the head, valve access covers, intake & exhaust, and probably a bunch of other stuff that has paint over the top of the plating already from back then.)
  7. Eneto-55

    Heater Choices for a P15

    My heater (P15) is also just the recirculating type. Fresh air to the heater would help with avoiding carbon monoxide from building up inside the car after it started to develop leaks in floor & firewall (and exhaust system). I remember when they used to say not to let children sleep on the floorboards in the back seat, because they could suffer from carbon monoxide poisoning from exhaust fumes getting into the car. It must have been a top of the line option back then.
  8. Eneto-55

    Windhield Washer Option

    There was one of those on my first car, '62 Chrysler Newport. I had saved it, but when I found it last Summer, the rubber 'bulb' was all cracked up. I'm not sure I even kept it - should have, though..... (Story of my life. Any time I throw something away, then later I want it.) I wonder how long those manual windshield washers were used.
  9. Eneto-55

    sand blasting questions

    I had an acid tank set up behind the shop, and when I stopped working on the car (sometime in 82 or 83) I had some duplicate parts from the parts car that I had never painted after pulling them out of the acid bath (phosphoric), and they were left that way all these years. Still not rusted. Phosphoric acid leaves a film on the steel that rust does not penetrate. (This was straight acid, or maybe as much as 30% water at the most, not phosphoric 'metal etch'.)
  10. Eneto-55

    39 dodge headliner replacement

    A lighter weight vinyl might stretch OK. My 72 Dodge Coronet had a thin vinyl headliner, and I replaced it because it was badly damaged from a former owner's smoking habit. I was able to find the exact same fabric, and my Mom did the sewing for me, then I put it in. (Not sure how much, but I still have what was left from that roll.) It was a light tan color, and had small holes in a grid pattern.
  11. Eneto-55

    overdrive options question

    I ship a lot of expensive stuff in my business - like DJ, I always buy the extra insurance. I mostly use FedEx now as they're cheaper. I did have a couple of damage claims with UPS, but even when I had the stuff double boxed (w/ more packaging between), they still refused payment. But the hardware store where I shipped it from had their own insurance, which paid for the damages. Since then I've been told that if a package is insured for $1,000.00 or more, it is handled by hand, instead of going on the over-head conveyors. (They also said that if a box gets jammed against one of the conveyor supports and stops everything behind it, they have long poles they use to just shove it off the line, and it falls to the floor.)
  12. Eneto-55

    Front Shock Relocation Pics

    Just wondering if any of the holes through the chassis were those that are already there (from stock). What I'm getting at is if those holes were used at all to get consistent positioning on both sides. (This is what i was thinking of doing, but like I said, I haven't tried to design the bracket yet at all. I usually use cardboard to start, before I make anything in steel, and I've not done any of that yet, just look and think.....)
  13. Eneto-55

    Front Shock Relocation Pics

    Thanks for the pictures. I had been thinking of doing mine something like that, too, but haven't done any actual design work (just in my head), because it's still too cold for me in the shop. Seeing how you did it will really help a lot.
  14. Eneto-55

    Something missing at hood latch

    Purchased a 1/4 x 2" clevis pin at the hardware. Wanted 1 1/4" (length), but they don't carry anything like that. Chucked it up in a drill and used a hacksaw blade to cut in a groove for an E clip, then moved it out a bit farther, and used the blade to cut it off. I had a torsion spring the correct diameter in my junk box (parts saved from printers I trashed) to just slip over the 1/4" pin. Here's a photo of the parts, and the make-shift "spring" that was on my secondary (safety) hood latch.
  15. Eneto-55

    Show your tools.

    We always set (wood) floor joists at 16" center. I was involved in one commercial building where steel floor trusses were used on the commercial floors, then wood floor trusses on the upper floors, which were condos. But I don't remember how they were spaced. There was concrete over the steel floor trusses, so maybe they were even 12" center. I just don't recall.
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