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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. I've sometimes wondered if anyone has gone the route of widening the spare tire tub, but I would guess you couldn't go much at all before you would need to either move the gasoline tank to some other spot, or get a narrower one made to fit. Lota' work for a tire & wheel you hope to seldom if ever use. I won't consider it, because I have no plans to use a wide tire. (Almost bought a set of 16" wide white walls way back when I got this car - $100.00 for the whole set of 4, off of a Jaguar. Good thing my dad stopped me though, considering that this was back in 80 or 81 or so....)
  2. I suspect that by 'bumper pads' you are talking about what I call bumper guards, so I wonder if the two sides were switched around. I should go look at mine (even though they are Plymouth) to be sure, but I think the outside may be 'shallower' to account for the angle of the bumper. (I've never thought about it, but it might be the reason yours seem to point in.) But the reason I decided to write a response here is to ask if you have a picture of your grill guard. My 49 (1st series) Plymouth (parts car) had a grill guard, and I'm thinking about if I will want to use it on my 46. It would for sure need to be plated or painted, as the chrome is in much worse shape than the bumper itself.
  3. Thanks. I had looked on their website, and their Search button didn't bring anything up. Looked in installation instructions, and they mention putting construction adhesive on the "feet" (contact points) as an option to the mortar, so the purpose of this must be to eliminate movement. The rough opening from the old installation is a bit less than the new tub (59 5/8 instead of a full 60"), so I'm going to need to notch the studs a bit, so was planning to slide it in from the side. That would mean that I cannot drop it in from the top as they specify. I suppose I could notch up higher, since nothing mounts to that surface above the tub lip until way at the top of the surround. I also haven't checked for plumb on the walls, and I've not seen very much yet that is straight in this house. (When I installed the shower stall in the basement bathroom, I had made sure that I had the required dimension all the way up at different points, but the walls were so far out of plumb that I ended up having to knock out an interior block wall to make room to go up straight.)
  4. We bought a tub-shower unit from Lowes - one made of "Vikrell", which I think is a brand name for a type of acrylic. Anyway, the instructions mention using either the felt pad underlayment (in included), or 1" of mortar cement. There was no felt pad included, and I don't want to use mortar. My question is, what thickness should the felt pad be? I am assuming the purpose of this is, as your last post suggests, to stabilize the tub base, so that it cannot shift around. I don't really see how it would anyway, since it will be fastened to the walls on three sides, and held in place along the other side by the flooring underlayment, but want to follow the instructions as closely as possible, especially since I do not have much experiences with this sort of thing.
  5. Years ago I knew a guy who always said he was from Maine. So I sorta' believe there really is a place like that, but I have never been there, so I'm not totally sure..... (Just kidding.)
  6. My brother lived in Seattle for a couple of years back in the late 70's, and I remember that once he said "This year is special, because Summer falls on a weekend".
  7. We will replace the whole thing, probably not a cast iron one (and tile), but with a four piece unit (tub & three side panels), probably acrylic? That's what the one I put in the downstairs bathroom is, only just a shower, of course. (That bathroom was a real mess when we bought the house. The kitchen drain cam through the block wall that formed the shower, passed through the shower at a downward angle, then went behind the toilet and around to the opposite wall, where it entered the main 4" down pipe from the upstairs bathroom. The bottom of the shower was just the concrete floor. The water pipes and the valves & shower head were all mounted to the surface of the block wall. I broke out the cement floor, and connected the kitchen drain into a new shower drain box below the floor level. The main things I don't like about the acrylic type is that it doesn't have the same solid feel to it that the heavy fiberglass tub deal does, it is a chore to keep the recesses where the different sections fit together free of soap scum and mold, and the surface of the acrylic has become stained. The worst spot is where I always set my shampoo bottle. It's like the plastic in the bottle reacted with the acrylic. I put it in about 12 years ago.)
  8. Tim, my wife is one woman that doesn't like tubs at all. (Maybe it is from all those years when we had to bathe in the river....) But I think it's clear that unless we are OK with loosing re-sale value, we should put a tub back in. Ed, thanks - that's the kind of review that is helpful, the longer after the better. But it looks like the idea of starting over is winning out in my home.....
  9. Are the tub-shower units all either fiberglass or cast iron? I was assuming some are acrylic, because that's what I put in as a shower stall downstairs, but didn't specifically look at it about the tub-shower deals. Actually, no one here uses the tub, but we were told that a house should have at least one tub someplace. What is your take on that? This is a split level house, and there is no bathroom on the main floor at all, or I'd consider putting in one of those walk-in tub-shower deals. But when we get too old to use a shower or tub, we also will be too old to go up & down the stairs all of the time.
  10. Thanks for noticing the crickets.... I had read a lot of reviews already, but wanted to hear something from some real people, so that's why I posted the question here. My wife wanted to put in a new acrylic one from the beginning, so that's what we'll do. I saw enough bad reviews mixed in with the good ones that I decided it isn't worth it. What I really wanted to hear was a report from someone who had it done like maybe 15 to 20 years ago, to know how well it would hold up. My main reason for wanting to redo the old one was that I don't look forward to all the fiberglass dust that will be sticking to me when I start cutting it up into pieces small enough to get through the door and out of the house. Also, this is an old thick walled one from the mid 70s, and I put one of these remodel shower units in the downstairs bathroom already about 12 years ago, and it feels a bit flimsy, and can also be difficult to keep the seams where it goes together clear of soap deposits & a sort of mold stuff. So, I have this itchy job waiting for me....
  11. On my trunk handle, I had destroyed the tubular retainer trying to get it off (before I read the notes on this site about how to do it). So I filed two opposing grooves into the handle base right where the depressions were, then got large E-clips. I will use a short piece of 1/2" plastic or copper tubing to get the spacing right. My spring (wave) washers are badly rusted, so I bought some at a hardware store, but they are much too stiff for this application, so I'll clean up the rusted ones, and re use them. (If this description doesn't make sense, I can post a picture later.)
  12. Ken is right. https://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?Amount=470&From=BRL&To=USD Currently US$123.953 @ 3.8226 Reais per US dollar. Exchanging at official rate may make it a higher price. (I don't know what standard this site is using, and haven't been back to Brazil for some years now.)
  13. Here's some comic relief about vent windows. http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15235&page=786
  14. My brother did some woodgraining back when we were both still single, and working on our cars side by side in Dad's shop (1980, his 49 DeSoto & my 46 Plymouth). He did my dash, but we didn't finish the rest of the parts, and the paint that was used has long since dried up or been thrown out, so to match it, I'll need to start over. But I want mine to look as close as possible to the original color & grain pattern, or I will simply choose a solid color to paint those parts. (I don't think I would choose the body color, but rather a darker shade of the same color, as an accent, or to complement the body color. In my case, this would be a dark green, and I would make it match the leather sections of the arm rests covers, which were already originally dark green.)
  15. When I worked in a farm implement manufacturing place, a 17 or 18 year old Amish girl would bring in hames to be power coated. Once when I had to go to the other end of the shop to get a forklift, by the time I got back she had drug the pallets to the back edge of the trailer, which I was going to do with a tow strap. I cautioned her about hurting her back, and she said "Well, I put them on there by myself." (Now she's probably going to the chiropractor all the time, and wondering why her back always hurts.)
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