Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe
  1. I know there are a lot of different opinions about doing this, but my dad always removed the thermostat in the Spring, then put it back in in the Fall. Also ran straight water in the Summer, pretty sure. Quit doing all of this after getting a car with A/C.
  2. I have been told that the wood grain is intended to look like the African wood Sapele.
  3. I was thinking you all were talking about retro-fitting a 'modern' set up onto your PU. I thought the stock setup was always on the driver's side, just ahead of the rear wheel. (Remembering my Dad's 53.)
  4. Not only that, but those cables either get frozen in place, or they rust in two, although I don't imagine that would happen on a historical vehicle, because it's not going to be exposed to road salt like a daily driver is (at least here in the "salt belt"). I had an S-10 PU, and when i was going to sell it, I looked underneath to see what the spare looked like, and it was gone! The cable had broken at some point, and the spare dropped away onto the road, and who ever was driving it at the time never noticed.
  5. And if you know both languages fairly well, when you see what Google does with it, it is often laughable - so wrong that you cannot even make out the meaning in your own mother tongue (what was originally written in your second or third language).
  6. I didn't say so, but was hoping it would work for you. I replaced the headliner in my 72 Dodge Coronet years ago (previous owner chain smoker damage), and the insulation was deteriorated, so I glued that stiff type of fiberglass furnace insulation up there. It stuck until after I had the headliner up, then began to sag. I never took the headliner back down to fix it, but it always bugged me that it had done that. It might have done better if it had been all in one piece, but I had used scraps.
  7. The interactions here have for the most part been kind & considerate. That is one of the reasons why I stopped visiting another old MoPar site, and visit here nearly every day, even if I don't find anything of particular interest that day, and even though I don't often contribute (mainly because my project is on hold, and my experience is rather old). Some car forums are widely known for their rancor and spite. Let's not be that sort of people. The issues discussed here are not matters of eternal destiny.
  8. An inch is not much at all in 16 - 18 feet. The assumption is that you would use jack stands, so you would have adjustment there anyway. I don't know if you're talking about having it on 4 stands, or just at front or rear, but I generally only put the jack stands under the end where I'm working on. and that makes a lot more slant than a slight slant in the floor. I know I should also use wheel chocks, but I'm not so good about doing that. Good reminder. (But I do also always leave the floor jack under one side, just in case. I figure that might save me if a jack stand collapsed.)
  9. Thanks. I looked for my repair description and finally found it. That was back in 2009, so I didn't recall it all correctly. I stated that I had threaded the hole, but actually had countersunk the holes where a pan head screw would stick out too far, and used stainless self-locking nuts on the other side. This was for a 75 Dodge Dart, so this approach might not work for one of our cars. I do have pictures, and a PDF with the pictures and process description, but it is off topic here, because it's for a car from 30 years later.....
  10. My son's 75 Dodge Dart window regulator wouldn't crank up, and same thing, had to drill out the spot welds. But I was able to thread the hole with a 6-62 tap, and used small stainless screws to fasten it back together. I have a document some place about what the problem was (don't recall now), but it's off topic here anyway. But speaking of the window regulator, has anyone found a way to source (or make) the special springs the keep the windows rollers pushing out into the tracks? (I may not have described this really well, because I'm going by memory, from back in 82 or so. After I married in 83, we lived overseas for 18 years, and my 46 is still over 900 miles from where we live now.) This is something I will need to work with once I get my project started again.
  11. I don't know when these changes took place, and these are attached parts, not the block itself, but by 1955 the temp sending unit was electric, and the head has a smaller tapped hole. Narrow belts. The exhaust exits at a different point on the manifold. Probably other small details as well.
  12. I have also used the approach JBNeal mentions, of putting the styrofoam peanuts into plastic grocery bags. Some breakables are packaged in cardboard where cardboard pieces are shaped to hold the article well away from all of the sides of the box. You could also double box it, with separate packaging around the inside box. Some say there should be at least 2" of packaging around anything breakable. I've heard that during transfers at the clearing stations the boxes are on an overhead track, and if a box gets against one of the supports, the workers shove it off of the line with a long pole. Might involve a considerable fall, and then land on concrete. Items insured for $1,000.00 or more are said to be handled by hand, but that doesn't help with an item like this.
  13. I lifted mine off (minus the front clip) with a chain hoist at the front, and a come-along at the rear, then set it on 2 2/6s (laying flat) across 4 15 gal drums. But I was younger then (middle 20s, compared to early 60s now), and crouching underneath it would not be so easy for me anymore. The rotary deal is lots nicer if you have a lot of work to do from the bottom up, or need to be able to move it around. (Never had one, but it sure looks easier to me.) I would just say that I think that lifting it from the top is a lot safer than jacking it up underneath - in order to get it up as high as the mounts on the rotary deal, I mean. We did pull the frame out from under a 53 DeSoto in the back yard when my oldest brother was probably only 14 or so (it was his idea, doing it just for anyhow) & I was 11 & a half or so. And I don't recall that we even had a floor jack, just bumper jacks. But I shudder to think of what could have happened.
  14. No, from a computer (win 7). Other posts above ours show it too, but I don't know if everyone sees it.
  15. Not the same situation, but on a vehicle I bought (well) used, the englne lube was really black, so I drained it & put in some used ATF. Ran it at an idle for 3 minutes. (With my hand on the ignltion the whole time, so that if I heard any strange noise, I could shut her down right away.) Then I drained it & put in clean stuff. It stayed like new (color & viscosity) for a long time. (Spelling & word choice note: For some reason certain words get changed into some sort of link. So I misspelled them, or used other words. What causes that? Is it a problem on my end, or does it do that for you all, too?)