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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Eneto-55

    A Nice Dodge Taillight Solution

    re: Grote: I looked at some of their other products, and saw their # 62021 backup light. How do you find the prices for these lights?
  2. Eneto-55

    Source of front shock mount

    Vehicles from the 90's didn't exist yet when I started on my car, so naturally there was no talk of swapping in the anti-sway bar from a vehicle of that vintage. So I'm rather behind the curve on this one - could someone tell me what the purpose is of using a different one? Is the Jeep anti-sway bar stiffer, to reduce the tendency for roll in a tight turn?
  3. Eneto-55

    P 15 Interior- What to do?

    DrDoctor, I had 1 semester of leather carving in HS, back in the heyday of Tandy Leather, I guess. That was vegetable tanned leather. Is that what you would use? I hadn't thought of doing that - I was thinking of thin upholstery leather. Now doing a carving on it would be REALLY different, but it would sure take a lot of time to draw it all out. I always wanted to do a saddle, but couldn't afford it. I think the only thing I have left from then is a wallet I made. I still have the carving knife & a few tools, but I never had very many. Mostly just used the ones they had in the HS leather shop. If you used upholstery leather, would you pad it at all, like roll & pleats? (I'm visualizing the way the dash looked on my first car, a 62 Chrysler Newport.) I'm thinking that it would be more 'forgiving' (in terms of wrinkles) if it were padded. Just saw that you posted again while I was writing this. About the vinyl tops, yeah, bad idea. My younger sister had a 67 Olds (442 maybe?) that my younger brother tore the vinyl top off of, and painted as a two-tone - after repairing the rust damage. It was really rough under the vinyl. The top bubbled under the vinyl on my 72 Coronet, too (my second car).
  4. Eneto-55

    P 15 Interior- What to do?

    Dr Doctor, Thank you for putting up the photos, and for the explanation. Actually, I was concentrating so much on the upholstery that I hadn't even noticed the interior molding & dash colors. My brother did a brown woodgraining on my dash back when we were both working on our cars, side by side (early 80's), but by now the paint that he had mixed up for that is all dried up. I may try to get mine looking like it was originally, but will experiment with woodgraining first. A wood shop that I do business with gave me a few pieces of Sepele (the African wood which the original grain pattern is said to be emulating), and I think it is a quarter-sawn pattern. If I don't like what I can get with my attempts at woodgraining, I will choose some solid color as well. (I can't see the dash well enough to see the pattern in the tile veneer you used, but that's an inventive idea. I've thought a bit about trying to cover mine with leather, but it would have to be able to stretch some places, as you know.)
  5. Eneto-55

    P 15 Interior- What to do?

    I would love to see a picture that shows the color & stripe pattern. (Maybe not all of them had the same sort of pattern that mine does. I would expect the colors to vary, but maybe not the pattern so much?)
  6. Eneto-55

    P 15 Interior- What to do?

    I always wanted to go back with an authentic looking material on the seats & headliner, but I haven't found anything that is really close at all to the original patterns. I think it might have been available back when I started this project back in the very early 80's, but as far as I found out at the time, mohair was only available in England, and for a pretty penny. Back then we were looking mostly at valour as a possible sort of close match. Since then I have seen a men's suit that had a color pattern that was very much like the color patterns on my seats, but it was my brother-in-law's suit, and he's not a big enough guy that his suit would outfit an entire car. (HA Ha.) But 'suiting' is a much finer fabric, and it probably wouldn't hold up at all, and i never found any like his suit in the fabric stores. I figured that a person might sew it first to a sturdier fabric, and use it that way. But thinking about it now, I'm thinking seriously of not trying to match the original fabrics at all, because many (or maybe even most) people didn't actually sit on the original fabric. I know that the original fabric in my parent's 53 DeSoto was still perfect when it was parked at 19 years old with over 100,000 miles on the odometer. Because when the 'original' seat covers (that had covered the original upholstery) wore out, my mom made new covers out of what we called 'naugahide' back then, some sort of vinyl, really. The seats for my 46 Plymouth (91,712.2 on the odometer - I haven't driven it yet.) also have seat covers on them, and if it weren't for the fact that they are torn, and the original fabric underneath fragile from age, I suspect they would also look 'perfect'. I've had a couple of Chrysler Town & Country minivans with leather seats, and I liked them, so I may go that way. I've also thought of trying to match the patterns of the fabrics used for the 'original' seat covers - that would be an approach that would be more authentic in many ways.
  7. Eneto-55

    Did you vote today????

    No. I am a legal alien. (I pray, though. I figure if folks can get political, I can get religious. On the international political scene, however, it is interesting that Jair Bolsonaro will be the new president of Brazil. He is an extreme right-wing former military guy, general, I think. People there are calling him the "Brazilian Trump".)
  8. Eneto-55

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    I didn't work in the chrome area very often, just a couple of times when we were plating (pot metal) fishing reel cranks. Most of the work they did in that department was industrial chrome - plating aircraft cranks back to specs. But regarding the polishing stage, THINK (but not positive) that some would fill minor imperfections with the copper plating, then polish that, as it is a softer metal to work (than steel). But I did see one of the bosses' friends grinding & polishing the steering arms off of a Ford roadster he had. He then had them chrome them. So that would have been done as you describe - polishing the steel before any plating work. He finished polishing then on a 3M / scotch-brite type polishing wheel before plating, so yeah, they were pretty shiny by the time they went in the plating tank. (It was a 3" wide wheel on a pedestal grinder. )
  9. Eneto-55

    P15 Inner Fender hole Identification Question

    Metric bolts on an old Plymouth???! Is that worse than using Ford parts? (Just kidding. I am planning to use the antenna mast off of a 93 Chrysler Town & Country to repair the antenna on my 46, and I was pleased to find out that the threads on it are actually standard 1/4-20. MAYBE I would have anyway, even if they were metric...)
  10. Eneto-55

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    Honesty up front always impresses me. I was in the place where I used to work (doing powder coating) years later (I regularly have parts punched out there for my business), and I overheard the sales guy telling a customer that the (outdoor) hand rail she was ordering would be better done in aluminum, then powder coated, because "if it's built with steel it will rust." When I was working there they were making claims about how much better it was compared to electro-plating.....
  11. Eneto-55

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    It's nice to hear that some powder coating shops are admitting that powder coating doesn't weather well. I worked in a powder coating shop for three years, and at the start I thought it would be a great solution for suspension parts, etc. (I applied to work there because I worked in the plating industry years ago, and knowing that it is in some ways a similar process, wanted to learn more about it, and felt I had something to contribute to that local shop, who had only recently added powder coating to their operation.) The problem with powder coating is that it is usually applied w/o any sort of primer stage, and sure it's very hard, but somehow rust gets started underneath, and it stays hidden until lots of damage has already been done. (Water retention under the paint.) It is also rather difficult to remove, until it scales off due to the underlying rust. (Even hard to blast off w/o damaging the surface.) It doesn't sand well, either, clogging the sand paper, and it won't feather out at the edges. The application process results in the same sort of problems encountered in electro plating - it is difficult to get good coverage in crevices and corners. (The opposite of wet coating, where the paint tends to flow into crevices, and build up too thick there.) But in electro plating, we would run the amps up high for a bit in the beginning to get material into the crevices, then back off the amps to plate the other surfaces. (Keeping it up too high for very long 'burns' the areas closer to the anodes, producing a rough surface.) With some types of plating we could also use an anode on a probe, to get into crevices and interior areas. For chrome (with which I didn't have a lot of experience - I worked mostly in cadmium, hot & cold tin, zinc, copper, & hot & bright nickel) a quality job will entail a three stage process, copper & nickel, then chrome. In the powder coating shop where I worked, we tried to 'float' the powder into corners to get better coverage, but in extreme situations the confined areas got very little color material, and just got a sort of tinted clear coat. It may be that more sophisticated powder coat booths would have multiple (and smaller) guns, to get into confined areas better. I would tend to think, however, that a more automated paint booth would suffer from the lack of direct operator attention.
  12. Eneto-55

    Head Manufacture Date

    Any ideas regarding the second one? (That is the one that may be my brother's.) I suspect that they didn't put the full date code on them back that early. I was hoping someone who has a 51 model could tell what sort of notation is on theirs. (Or someone else with a known P15 head.)
  13. Eneto-55

    Head Manufacture Date

    Is there a way to tell when a head was manufactured? For instance, the '55 engine I have in my P15 has the following numbers & notations on the head: 12.10.54; 1616823-4; and a 'D' & 'N', with an arrow below it pointing to the 'D'. I assume the first is the date code, which would make sense for a '55 engine. This head also has the smaller hole for the temp gauge, because the '55 models had an electric sender unit. I have another head which I believe to be out of my 49 1st series (P15). It has the following notations on it. 12-1; and 1120803-8. The reason for asking is because my brother has an engine from a '51, which also used the capillary style temp sending unit. We had some things stolen from our cars in our parent's back yard, and we're trying to establish if the head I have is from the 49, or the 51. The one I have I had moved into the shop before already, possibly years ago, but I don't remember when. (My extra bell housing has also disappeared. - I assume stolen when the other stuff went missing.) Both of these engines were torn down back in the early '80's. Thanks.
  14. Eneto-55

    Relining the Emergency Brake at Home

    What kind of material is the lining made of? If there is extra material (length), you might consider cutting a small piece off, and try soaking it, to see it it does become more flexible. I would almost be surprised if it did, since it would normally be getting wet on a regular basis under operation.
  15. Eneto-55

    Air filter

    So the fibers in the top part do not need to hold oil - Is that correct? Or is this aluminum stuff fine enough that it would hold oil?
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