Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe
  1. I've always heard that the P15's changed to 15's in late 1947 or 48. I don't know about Suburbans. Are they on a pickup frame? If so, that would explain the 16's. But people often changed wheel sizes back then (I guess they do now, too) - for example, about as soon as my Dad brought home a 62 Chrysler Newport (in 1966) he took the stock 14's off & put 15's on it off of our old DeSoto (53 model). Later it was my first car, and they were still on it when I quit driving it around Christmas of 1977.
  2. I once overheard an Amish business man saying something like that - he said: "I should have started my business when I was 19, because I knew everything then."
  3. I think the older Chilton's were better, but anyways I bought one when we got our first minivan, a 93 T&C. The manual was like RCB said, sort of the 'black box theory', where you remove a component & toss it for a new one. And it covered too many models, and didn't cover any of them well. Most of the pictures didn't look like what our vehicle looked like. The electrical diagrams were so small you couldn't read them, and they were also incomplete. [It did help me once, though, when I was stranded in another state, and the shop I had the car taken to said he doesn't work on Japanese engines, and it was only after showing him in the Chilton's that the 3.3 was USA made (unlike the 3.0, which was in fact Japanese) that he consented to do the repair. (It was a water pump R & R that I needed to have done.)]
  4. Yep, that's it, but that one is in better shape than the one we have. Originally they were still all in paper wrappers, but you know, children will play. (And it was only 6 or 7 years later when we found them, so no one thought about what they might be worth later on.)
  5. I was about two years old when this car was buried, living 16 miles north of Downtown. I heard about this car all through my early childhood, and wanted to visit back home when it was brought out, but didn't make it back there. My grandpa owned a service station back then, and when I was 5 or so, we moved a storage shed from the service station to the place we were living. In a loft in that building was a whole stack of brand-new commemorative 'license plates' that said 1907 Visit Oklahoma 1957 across the top, and OKLAHOMA in large letters in the middle. I think there is only one left, and my Dad has it. (I had it for a while, but thought I should give it back to Dad, although I'm pretty sure it was me that saved it when it was the last one around, probably in the early 70's.) When it got close to 2007 I had an idea to make a bunch of them just like it, but with 2007 in place of the 1957, but when I found out how much the dies would cost, I gave it up. Afterwards, seeing what a big 'circus' the whole event was, I think it would have been a good investment. But maybe it would have been better yet to leave it say 1957, I don't know.
  6. I know there are a lot of different opinions about doing this, but my dad always removed the thermostat in the Spring, then put it back in in the Fall. Also ran straight water in the Summer, pretty sure. Quit doing all of this after getting a car with A/C.
  7. I have been told that the wood grain is intended to look like the African wood Sapele.
  8. I was thinking you all were talking about retro-fitting a 'modern' set up onto your PU. I thought the stock setup was always on the driver's side, just ahead of the rear wheel. (Remembering my Dad's 53.)
  9. Not only that, but those cables either get frozen in place, or they rust in two, although I don't imagine that would happen on a historical vehicle, because it's not going to be exposed to road salt like a daily driver is (at least here in the "salt belt"). I had an S-10 PU, and when i was going to sell it, I looked underneath to see what the spare looked like, and it was gone! The cable had broken at some point, and the spare dropped away onto the road, and who ever was driving it at the time never noticed.
  10. And if you know both languages fairly well, when you see what Google does with it, it is often laughable - so wrong that you cannot even make out the meaning in your own mother tongue (what was originally written in your second or third language).
  11. I didn't say so, but was hoping it would work for you. I replaced the headliner in my 72 Dodge Coronet years ago (previous owner chain smoker damage), and the insulation was deteriorated, so I glued that stiff type of fiberglass furnace insulation up there. It stuck until after I had the headliner up, then began to sag. I never took the headliner back down to fix it, but it always bugged me that it had done that. It might have done better if it had been all in one piece, but I had used scraps.
  12. The interactions here have for the most part been kind & considerate. That is one of the reasons why I stopped visiting another old MoPar site, and visit here nearly every day, even if I don't find anything of particular interest that day, and even though I don't often contribute (mainly because my project is on hold, and my experience is rather old). Some car forums are widely known for their rancor and spite. Let's not be that sort of people. The issues discussed here are not matters of eternal destiny.
  13. An inch is not much at all in 16 - 18 feet. The assumption is that you would use jack stands, so you would have adjustment there anyway. I don't know if you're talking about having it on 4 stands, or just at front or rear, but I generally only put the jack stands under the end where I'm working on. and that makes a lot more slant than a slight slant in the floor. I know I should also use wheel chocks, but I'm not so good about doing that. Good reminder. (But I do also always leave the floor jack under one side, just in case. I figure that might save me if a jack stand collapsed.)
  14. Thanks. I looked for my repair description and finally found it. That was back in 2009, so I didn't recall it all correctly. I stated that I had threaded the hole, but actually had countersunk the holes where a pan head screw would stick out too far, and used stainless self-locking nuts on the other side. This was for a 75 Dodge Dart, so this approach might not work for one of our cars. I do have pictures, and a PDF with the pictures and process description, but it is off topic here, because it's for a car from 30 years later.....
  15. My son's 75 Dodge Dart window regulator wouldn't crank up, and same thing, had to drill out the spot welds. But I was able to thread the hole with a 6-62 tap, and used small stainless screws to fasten it back together. I have a document some place about what the problem was (don't recall now), but it's off topic here anyway. But speaking of the window regulator, has anyone found a way to source (or make) the special springs the keep the windows rollers pushing out into the tracks? (I may not have described this really well, because I'm going by memory, from back in 82 or so. After I married in 83, we lived overseas for 18 years, and my 46 is still over 900 miles from where we live now.) This is something I will need to work with once I get my project started again.