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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Maybe there's a jack stand or block under there someplace that I can't see, but if my wife saw me working under a car without one, she'd kill me. (Then I wouldn't have to die from being crushed from a car falling on me. Actually, even then she worries.)
  2. This is one of the main weaknesses of powder coating - it's very difficult to get good coverage in corners & crevices. This is also a problem in electro-plating, but in that situation, we would up the amps right at the beginning to get into the corners, then back it off so we didn't "burn" the main surfaces. (We sometimes also would use a probe type anode to reach into larger openings.) As another has stated, I agree that a brush is sometimes the best option. Maybe do the first coat with a brush, then spray over that. That gets you the best of both worlds. I've seen some brush-painted vehicles from years ago, and it was an art just like spraying. (Using a really good quality brush that doesn't shed bristles, and a slow thinner, for instance.)
  3. The auction was this afternoon. The huge lathe went for $200.00. There were several machine shop owners that that I know well, and one of them told me he thought it might bring $300.00. (That was before the big one sold for $200.00.) I went up well past that, but stopped when it reached my "highest price". I might have gone over, but it had not been used rear recently (judging from the grime on the ways, and all over everything), but there were still metal shavings down between the ways. Some parts were covered in light surface rust. And, there were wood lathe knives in the drawer under the lathe. I had been doing quite a bit of reading over the last while, and some said that wood dust can do a lot of damage. I don't know, but I let it go to the guy who wanted it more than i did. Or maybe he just knew better how to evaluate it. I did get a pressure feed sand blaster, however. The one I had years ago (that was stolen from my brother) was a better one, but I bought this one anyway ($40.00). A machinist I know who was there told me that he has a smaller one about that same size that he is thinking of scrapping, so I might see if I can get that one. He says it's worn out, and I reckon he knows, but I figure I could get back in practice on it, and then I would not feel so uncomfortable with going in to a friend's machine shop & using his. (He offered it several years ago, but I just didn't feel confident enough, since it's been so many years since I worked with one.) Oh, there was also a huge surfacer that went for only $200.00. You just never know. I know that auctions aren't the greatest way to buy something like this (no opportunity to test it, or even hear it run), but auctions are really popular around here, it's just how almost everything gets sold. Three times a year (in a town about 5 miles from here) they have machinery auctions. It's an all day affair, with at least 8 auctioneers going all day, at the same time. Most towns around with a cattle auction barn have the same thing. (the rest of the time there are horse sales, exotic animal sales, etc.) Later.... Now I have "reverse buyer's remorse" - Wishing I had kept on bidding.... So I guess I'll just have to hire the work done that I need. A fried who was also at the sale commented that "I guess someone else just wanted it more than you", but I thought "No, he just had more money than I, or just didn't care what it cost."
  4. I had the same (driver's side cowl mounted) antenna, but some time during the 3 decades it sat in storage (while I was out of the country for 18 years, and then living across the country for the last 15) the part of the antenna where the top piece slides down into split and spread out like the petals on a flower. Before I wrapped the car to move it across the country, I just cut it off. I have the antenna from our 93 Chrysler T & C that I scrapped, and it threads onto a 1/4" - 20 threaded stub. I figure I can solder a stainless bolt into the original antenna base, and most people won't know the difference. (Not a show car I'm building at all.) I just won't be able to push it down, either.
  5. I know this is an old thread, but since I started it, and rather than start a new one about pretty much the same thing, here's what I'm planning to do for the front shoulder belts. (I haven't decided if I'll do more than lap belts in the back seat.) This is the B pillar seat belt adjusters I kept when I scrapped our 93 Chrysler T & C. The plastic cover won't work, of course (way too wide, and plastic is too 'modern'), but I kept them as an example of what I''ll need to fabricate. (I have some pieces of actual Sapele wood, and it probably would be easier to make something out of wood than it would to do it out of metal - will see.) The piece in the foreground is a pair of sort of brushes that fits over the slider knob, like in the 2nd photo. Question: How thick does the steel need to be in the pillar in order for this not to just be jerked right out in an accident, and have it flying into your face or neck? I wish I had kept a piece of the 93 Chrysler pillar so that I could check the gauge, but I didn't. In the last picture, you can see the clip that secured it on the 93, but I see that I have it started on the bolt backwards in the photo. (I had done that so that I could stand it up for the first photo.) I'm thinking that I can't use those clips, as that would mean cutting two fairly large holes (one for each clip), but if I cut a hole farther down on the pillar, I should be able to slide a single piece steel strap up into place. (It would probably need to have a thin gauge piece welded in between the weld nuts, so that it can bend in the middle to get through a smaller hole. Or just weld the hole back shut?) I want to be able to adjust the shoulder belt, because I'm long in the torso, and my wife & oldest son are quite a bit shorter than I (especially my wife, of course). I just can't stand to have the belt pulling down on my shoulder, and I think it defeats the purpose of the belt anyway. I have also not decided if I'll use belt retractors, or just use adjustable belts (if you can even get that sort of thing anymore). I just don't see a good place to fasten them, unless they can go under the seat, with just a belt slide piece fastened to the bottom of the B pillar. (My car is a 4 door, so I don't have to be concerned about tripping the rear seat passengers as you would for a two door.) If I could easily find the hardware, I would want to look at the belts out of a 72 Coronet (which is what I had back when I bought this 46) - it had a separate shoulder belt that connected onto the main buckle somehow. You could use just the lap belts, or also the shoulder belt. When not in use the shoulder belt clipped into a deal above the window, toward the A pillar. (I sold that 72 Dodge back in January 1984, so I cannot remember exactly how it was.) I also want to look at what I would need to do to reinforce or replace the original seat mounts, so that I can fasten the other end of the belts directly to the seat frame, instead of having to cut a hole in the foot rest, and then have the belts run across the top of it (as I understand some have done). I know that someone who was writing about this said that they have only had back seat passengers a few times, but I expect to have people in the back fairly often, with the way I expect to use the vehicle.
  6. I have two P15 sedans, a 46 & a 49 first series. One is from Detroit & the other from Evansville. Both had the weatherstrip in the channel (on the body). I won't argue against the idea that it might well be better to put it on the lid (drainage issues, as already mentioned), but my guess is that it was originally installed in the body channel, unless there was a different approach on the coupes. So it's up to your personal preference.
  7. I faced the same question 35 + years ago. Except I don't recall asking that question, because I thought I'd be running it before too long. Marriage and living outside of the States kept me from it. Still haven't started it..... (People tell me I should go through it again now, before starting it. So who knows?)
  8. You have a nice looking one there. The sale doesn't come up for more than a week yet. I appreciate all of the comments here, and I've been doing some reading on lathes, too. (I think I mentioned that I have only ever done very basic things in the past, and unfortunately it was quite far back in the past.) From what I see on on-line sales, these things, even the small ones, go for more than I had thought they would. I guess because a customer on mine showed his small Chinese one that he got at a surplus store ('new') for around $100.00, if I recall correctly. I may have to decide which is more important to me, a lathe, or a pressure feed sand-blaster. (I had a good one, but it was stolen from my brother years ago.)
  9. There is an auction coming up near here that has a couple of old metal lathes to be sold. The bigger one is too big for any place I'd have to put one, but there is also a small Craftsman model 101. I know that a real machinist would laugh at one of those, but there are a couple of things I'm lacking - room, and money to spend on it. I had hoped to get my wife's uncle's bench-top lathe (his auction was a few weeks ago), but someone else wanted it 'badder' than me. So, does anyone here have one of these Craftsman models, and if so, how much should i pay? I know that it depends on the condition of the thing, and what tools go with it, but just a ball-park figure. I have never had any training on one - just had some opportunity to use the one in our mechanics shop in Brazil from time to time during the years we were missionaries there. So I can't judge the value of the tooling, etc. (I only ever did very basic jobs on it.)
  10. I didn't need to do any welding on my chassis, but since I couldn't afford to send it out to be sand blasted, and didn't have a blaster of my own at that time, I rolled the chassis outside, and winched it up against a sturdy fence post (to clean off the road tar, grease, etc). Wheels, tires, everything still mounted. I would have done in inside the shop, but didn't have room, and it was Summer, so no problem doing it outdoors.
  11. My 46 had plastic welting installed when I dismantled it in 1980. It had been painted over twice, but the original color was a sort of cream or grey tone. (I believe I still have it someplace - will have to dig it out to look again.)
  12. I have heard that you can't buy it any more, but I used Zinc Chromate. [I understand that it is also what they use on airplanes, and what the military uses (used?) on ships, etc.] I second the deal about powder coating. I worked in a powder coating operation for several years, and would not use it for anything that is exterior for sure, and I wouldn't chose it for interior, either, although I think it would perform OK in that environment. (You can't get it to feather out along an edge, if you need to sand it, and it also gums up the sand paper. I've said this before, but here it is again - I think that it's only advantage in industry is that the parts can be handled & packaged as soon as it cools after coming out of the oven.)
  13. Never a leisure suit. But had some flare leg jeans that were so wide you couldn't see my size 10 cowboy boots. Had some plaid pants that would rival those seat covers, too. Wish I still had them, for laughs.
  14. To quote my grandpa (who passed away in 1973), "I wish I had one like that and you had one better." (He, being a farmer all of his life, of course said: "I wish I had a barn like that and he had one better." It was his way of not being jealous....)
  15. These schematics are definitely in the car books, and while I don't have any books for the pickups, I would assume that they would be included there as well. The advantage of using those is that you would have the correct measurements, and you could much more quickly identify where the issue is.
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