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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. In the interior of Brazil, there is often only a single electrical wire run. You get the ground from the, well, the ground. But in relation to our cars, since I will be rewiring my P15 anyway, I am inclined to run an extra wire to like the headlamps, for the ground (rather than depending on all of the sheet metal connections, especially with painting all of the separate panels before assembly).
  2. This is the way I would understand it, although I don't know for sure. That, and the engine matching the frame number.
  3. Should refill with SAE 90 weight lube oil (not grease).
  4. I should check my body number (firewall). (Still have it off, not with the car right now.) The A Pillar is 8 digits. Is there any similarity between the three numbers, such as same sequence for part of the number?
  5. Another question: Other than the 'P15' at the beginning, is the number on the frame also 8 digits, like the one on the A Pillar?
  6. Thanks much! Nebraska is the one I really needed to know. I will see if my brother can make out the frame number, and do another lost title search through the state of Nebraska. I didn't say so, but I also bought my 46 w/o a title. (The Nebraska car I have is a 49 P15.) We first submitted a request with the license tag number and the A Pillar ID tag number, and the response was just that the license tag that was on the car when I got it did not belong to that vehicle. (In Oklahoma, the license plate belongs to the vehicle, not the vehicle owner.) We then resubmitted the lost title search request w/o a license plate number, and they found the title. The car was apparently originally sold in Oklahoma, and spent it's whole life there, because the title includes the original date of sale.
  7. Since first hearing that some states used this engine/frame number as the identifying number on titles, I have wondered if anyone has ever compiled a list of states that used this number, as opposed to the one on the A pillar (on the left side for all but some early P15s) which actually says on it that it is the 'Serial Number". Or maybe some jurisdictions within a state used that number, and other areas in the same state used the engine/frame number, who knows? But I would have thought that there would be paper work issued by the factories that had that information, if not an official document with each vehicle that stated the ID number. Or could it have been even MORE inconsistent, if one clerk at the same title agency used one number, and his/her coworker used the other? I grew up in Oklahoma, and as far as I know (from vehicles my Dad had, etc.), they always used the Serial Number on the body as the ID. I also have reason to be curious about Nebraska, because I own a car I picked up there for a parts car back in 81, and would now like to get a title if possible. Some 10 years ago or so I applied for a title search from the State of Nebraska, using the last vehicle registration tag number, and the number from the left A pillar, the tag labeled "Serial Number". They didn't find anything. Now I wonder if I should submit another request, using the number on the frame. (The engine was blown - big hole in the side of the block - so I scraped the block back when I tore it down for what parts were worth keeping.) The car is at my brother's place (over 1000 miles from me), so I can't just go out and get that number. If anyone knows what the practice was in Nebraska, I would sure like to know. In fact, I'll start this here. Number Used on Title in each state, as known: Oklahoma - Serial Number plate on body Edit: I should have gone out & looked before I said that it says "Serial Number" right on the A pillar tag. It just has the number. I was thinking it did because the manuals tell where to find the serial number, and state that location. I've never seen any mention (in an original manual) of the frame number. (I can't read mine, and I hate to scratch off the paint, because I used Zink Chromate for its reputation for protecting from rust. I can just make out the P15 and that it starts with '20', which IS the same range as the plate on the A pillar tag.)
  8. I haven't looked into it deeply yet to see if it is going to be possible, but what I'm thinking of doing is to rework, replace, or beef up the stock seat mounts, slides, and side & back structural members, then mount the retractor into the side of the seat below the cushion, and fasten the seatbelts themselves to the reinforced seat back cross bar, instead of running them through the seat back and down to the floor behind the foot rest on the back of the front seat. If it is not possible to put the retractor into the side of the seat, I will try to find seatbelts like what was in my 72 Dodge Coronet, the type that had an adjustable shoulder belt that clipped onto the main belt separately (and had no retractor). (Or just settle for lap belts. That's what I figured to do back in 1980 when I got the car, when shoulder belts were kind of a new thing.) (I also thought of building a box under the floor, and mounting the retractor there, with the belt going through a slot in the floor, but that is major work, and I already rebuilt the floor when I first got the car.) Edit to add after thought: Has anyone ever considered mounting a narrow retractor inside the B pillar, with a steel cable that connects to the seat belt? Crazy idea, I suppose.
  9. re: the Master Parts List PDF: It's too large to send by email. Is there an interest, and a way to upload it onto this site? Maybe that would take up too much room here if everyone was contributing something. Or, do you have some file sharing deal like DropBox? I used it once years ago to send a large file to someone for business purposes, but I don't know if what I had to set up is still there, or if it would still work, and also don't remember now how to do it. The other business stepped me through the process. There was a guy on FaceBook who had scanned the P15 Owner's Manual, and offered it for free, but although I voiced an interest, nothing came of it. That's something I don't have for my car. (I would try to print it out to make it look fairly 'original', to keep in the car.) I have also done the same thing with some other manuals, and have a number of them that I've been working on off & on for years. (Should concentrate on one at a time, I know. Currently working on scanning my own Plymouth Service Manual, mostly so that I can print off individual pages when needed, so that I don't get grease on the real one. I think I said this in a different thread, but I scan first as a photo, then convert one section at a time to PDF, then will combine them all yet. I'm a "frustrated perfectionist" - always wanting everything to be perfect, but never quite getting there - so it takes a lot of time to get each page scanned straight. I guess the advantage of scanning directly to PDF is that the text itself is then searchable, but the screen photo process in the original printing doesn't come through as well that way, so it's a trade-off.)
  10. As far as an opinion goes, I would go with a bench seat w/ no second thoughts.
  11. Thanks. I was confused as to which manual I saw the other picture in. My manual actually shows the same picture as you posted earlier. What i was thinking of was what I'd seen in a Plymouth Parts Manual I downloaded off of this site back in July of 2010. (Each page was a separate PDF file, and I combined them all into a single file, then added bookmarks.) The front cover wasn't included, but here is the title page. Then also I will post the picture of the engine supports.
  12. Which service manual is this photo taken from? I'm asking because my Plymouth Service Manual (for models P-15 P-17 P-18 P-19 & P-20) DOES show a lower bushing. I looked at mine, which I assembled w/o benefit of this forum (in 1981), and I DO have lower bushings installed. But this car was dismantled when I bought it, and the original engine was already gone, and a 55 model 230 included, also already torn down. (The guy I bought the car from said that the PO had said that this engine had been installed, but I always doubted it, because some things like the exhaust manifold are different, and would not have matched up w/ the original exhaust pipe.) Anyway, I do have bolts in that are a good bit longer, but that means little to nothing, because a whole bucket of bolts came with the car. (I did pull the original engine out of the 49 P15 parts car I have, but that was way before digital cameras, and film was expensive. So I don't know how that one was, either.) But my upper engine biscuits are really squashed (I didn't replace them - hard to find any replacement parts like that back then), and also have deep cracks in them. But they ARE still soft enough to push your finger into them. I did just meet a guy here locally on Saturday that has a P15 (in a parade here - I ran after him to the place where everyone was turning around...), and it looks unrestored, so I might go see him, if I can take a look at his.
  13. As to bench seats, check the width. I saved the second row bench seat out of my 2nd Gen Chrysler T & C for my brother, for his 31 Plymouth. So that one is probably too narrow, but I don't know the measurement of the minivan seat now either, as I took it to him last year. I could measure the third row seat for you (from same vehicle), but that size would be fairly common across a lot of different manufacturers. I don't like mixing in Furd stuff, but I rode in a fellow church member's new passenger van (full size) a year or so ago, and noticed that the rear seats (buckets) had all of the shoulder belts & everything built into the seat backs. I haven't looked at any Dodge vans, but they may be designed in the same way - good option, I would think, because those seats will already have the extra height you will probably want (as compared to seats out of a modern passenger car).
  14. Speaking or errors, I forget which one, but one of the old Plymouth manuals has a picture of a PU cab labeled as 'ashtray'. But I am definitely a fan of printed media. I would never, for instance, want to leave my Bible at home when I go to church meeting, and just look at a Bible app on a smart phone. I was a Bible translator for a number of years, and I got copies of what commentaries I could afford, or get used. But now I have access to electronic copies of books that only the mission library could afford to have. And you can take a huge library worth of those electronic books on nothing bigger than a laptop. At the same time, it may well be that at some point in time the only thing left will be printed books - due to some massive collapse of technology. I'm not saying that it WILL happen, just that it is possible. Speaking of Motor's Manuals, some years ago I bought a whole box full of them (late 40's up into the 50's) for $8.00 as I recall, and I gave all but the 2 oldest ones to my brother, to sell at swap meets. (None around here.) But he's a collector of old books like that, so he probably still has them.
  15. 1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said: 1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said: Yep, that’s my idea too – print out the section I need, so it doesn’t matter if I need to look at it while my hands are greasy. After putting the bookmarks into a PDF file, that ‘index’ is interactive – just click on it & you’re there. Also, the PDF file is searchable, so you can <usually> find the section you want by a key word search.
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